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Turtle n Peeps

California

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Posted: 04/08/12 11:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

45Ricochet wrote:

Yeah I'll stop. I really don't know how the subject came up I had to scroll up to see the thread subject. LOL I guess I wasn't to far off subject matter. I guess you could relate a Cadillac to being arrogant.


I tell my boss that all the time! She owns a fully loaded brand new Yukon. I tell her that one of these days she can keep up with me and get a diesel Caddie like I own. She just does this: and then this:.............

BTW my boat pulls down 30 on the hiway. But with 105 HP she's not a drag car. but then again if my HPFP went out it would not cost me 12 grand.


~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"


45Ricochet

North Idaho

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Posted: 04/08/12 12:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm pretty sure they don't have HPFP's because I don't remember buying one of those


06 Ram 3500 CC LB Laramie 4x4 Dually 5.9 Cummins Smarty Jr 48RE Jacobs brake
GVWR 12,200 RAWR 9350
06 Grand Junction 34' High profile 15500 GVWR 3200 pin Mor/ryde 5500 Onan genny Dual A/C Wet bolts
27' Hallett 502, 500HP


E&J push'n wind

San Diego CA, The best climate on earth!

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Posted: 04/10/12 01:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Turtle & Peeps wrote:

Well if the point is to save money then lets do a little math.

Lets say the 90 MPH is correct:

Drive miles / year= 5000 miles divided by 90 MPG = 55 gallons of diesel. 55 gallons of diesel x $4.50/ gallon (the price here)= $250

Now lets do some math for a lets say a R600
Drive miles / year= 5000 miles divided by 60 MPG = 83 gallons of gasoline. 55 gallons of gasoline x $4.20/ gallon (the price here)= $350.

A whole savings of 100 bucks/ year.

So for a $100 bucks a year savings you get to drive a bike that is slower than a snail with a broken operculum and shakes the sins right out of you.

And believe me, I'm not anti diesel, my gas/diesel 5.7 gets me to work every day.

By the way. A Honda 50 is rated at 100 MPG and is real efficient. Now diesel has a bit more BTU's to it but not enough to make the 90 MPG unless it has the HP of a Honda 110.



O.k. You did a little math and that little math works out just a little. Lets do a little more math.

Right now with gas at $4.20/gal (where I live & that's low), using my SUV as my DD I'm spending close to $60/week to fill it up from 1/2 a tank (roughly 14 gallons) or $3120/year. So roughly $240/mo to drive to work, just to work so that's conservative but works for estimating.

At about 16 mpg combined city/hwy vs. 90 mpg city hwy at 220 miles/week to go just to work. Less than 2.5 gallons to go to work/week @ $4.20/gal, $10.25/week, $41/mo, $492/year.

The SUV costing me $3120/year vs. the 90 mpg MC costing $492 saves me $2628/year or $219/mo. That's real money. The savings in fuel costs alone would almost pay for it.

Now, the figure You used of 5000 miles/year, that's VERY conservative. At least out here in the So/West. In the days I did ride, 20,000 miles/year was easy, riding pretty much every day. The weather here permits it.

Oops! I used $4.20 for the diesel fuel cost so add $.30/gal for the diesel so it cost's $1.00 more per week, $52/year. Still a big savings.

It's been 15 + years since my riding days but my sport bike when ridden conservatively would get 40 mpg and that was great for the day (90's) for any MC. I don't know what bikes are getting today but they really still aren't purpose built to get great mpg's. That's just par for the course for them. If I had to venture to guess I'd bet they aren't getting much better than 40 still. So that diesel MC would still be an improvement even over that if my mpg estimates are correct for todays MC's, IDK for sure. What I do know for sure is they are not getting 90 mpg on gasoline.


Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know much, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom.

Charles Haddon Spurgeon


E&J push'n wind

San Diego CA, The best climate on earth!

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Posted: 04/10/12 11:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Turtle & Peeps wrote:

Now lets do some math for a lets say a R600
Drive miles / year= 5000 miles divided by 60 MPG = 83 gallons of gasoline. 55 gallons of gasoline x $4.20/ gallon (the price here)= $350.



I took the liberty to look up the EPA fuel estimates for this bike. I had no idea but they seemed kind of high. This link put the mpg at 45. You have to go all the way to the bottom to see it.

The Kawasaki link shows the 2011 ZX6R @ 38 mpg, the 650R @ 38 mpg and the 250 the only getting 61 mpg.

My last bike was a ZX900A1 84 model I rode into the mid 90's. Carburated it was getting what the bikes of today are getting and in some respects better.

harrysteven

Houston

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Posted: 05/26/12 02:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I really want to thank everyone who posted here! This thread has been a big help by making me aware of the weight issues involved when deciding what kind of tow vehicle to buy. You may not realize it, but the kind of back and forth that went on here was very useful to a newbie like myself! Again, thanks.

Harry

Fordlover

Spring, Texas

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Posted: 05/26/12 03:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

harrysteven wrote:

I really want to thank everyone who posted here! This thread has been a big help by making me aware of the weight issues involved when deciding what kind of tow vehicle to buy. You may not realize it, but the kind of back and forth that went on here was very useful to a newbie like myself! Again, thanks.

Harry


Stick around a while, it gets way better, and usually involves some name calling and manhood comparisons.


02 Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 4x4, prodigy and equalizer
07 Crossroads Sunset Trail ST19CK
and no payments

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 05/26/12 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

harrysteven wrote:

I really want to thank everyone who posted here! This thread has been a big help by making me aware of the weight issues involved when deciding what kind of tow vehicle to buy. You may not realize it, but the kind of back and forth that went on here was very useful to a newbie like myself! Again, thanks.

Harry


And it boils down to whether you believe in the OEM ratings or not
Also whether you believe in 'ratings' or not

If not in either case, then do whatever you wish

If yes, then learn the metrics of how they all play together and how
the OEM's derived them.

There is an ancillary point that the regulatory agencies have laws
that mandate points of performance that are then embodies in the
various OEM specifications. Though many are transparent to us...never
the less they are there.

coolbreeze01

Redding, Ca

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Posted: 05/26/12 04:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

harrysteven wrote:

I really want to thank everyone who posted here! This thread has been a big help by making me aware of the weight issues involved when deciding what kind of tow vehicle to buy. You may not realize it, but the kind of back and forth that went on here was very useful to a newbie like myself! Again, thanks.

Harry


What did you buy?..............This is a test


2008 Dodge 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2007 Komfort 212 on 225 75R 15E Maxxis 8008 Tires.........

harrysteven

Houston

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Posted: 05/26/12 05:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I didn't buy anything yet! That's the point. I'm going to look very carefully at gvwr, cgwr, tow weight, etc.

For the RV, I'm thinking of a used 5th Wheel with a GVWR of 13,000#, which I realize will mean a one ton long-bed dually. I'm still trying to figure out if I should go Dodge, Ford, or Chevy. (We plan to rent a Ford for a day when one becomes available in two weeks.)

To be honest, though, I'm still thinking about a travel trailer. I think they're lighter with less of a front profile, (less air resistance and better mpg,) and probably cost less. But I'm concerned about sway and longer turning radiuses, and also that they take longer to hitch & unhitch.

We're planning on full-timing, by the way.

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 05/26/12 05:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Consider a Pullrite hitch for a TT, that is what my
next hitch will be Pullrite

Not home, so don't have a link to the diagram to
help figure HOW2 size. Since you do not hzve either
Consider either using both GVWR.s or guess based
on how guys load up. That image is on this thread,
way back in the beginning

Via SmartPhone...excuse the fat finger typos!


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

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