Hoping someone has shared my great experience this evening and has tips for a fix. I had my fifth wheel (298 Sunnybrook) plugged into shore power and all was well. I have not put the batteries back in yet this year as today was the first day I opened the trailer for the year. My wife noticed the fridge was not getting power so I checked the 12v fuse box. The 20 amp fuse was popped. When I went to replace the 20 amp with a new 20 amp, the new fuse arced and I lost all 12 volt power to the rig, the 110 plugs still work ok. All other fuses look good and no breakers are tripped. I noticed 2 25 amp fuses on the converter but those check out ok. I am stumped. Part of me thinks something is fried, and the other part says that everything should be protected. I remember when I bought the trailer they showed me some sort of breaker near the converter and battery which is like a small black button that can be depressed with a screw driver tip. Tried that and still nothing. I would appreciate all advice as I am in a bit of a pinch. Thanks in advance.
Jason
Jason, Ashley, Blake, Brayden, Ella and Meah the Black Lab
'04 F-250 Crewcab 6.0L 4x4
'07 Sunnybrook Brookside 298FWBHS
I don't have your trailer but I had a similar experience and was stumped also. I got this advice. Follow the positive battery cable up to the block it attaches to. You might find those little black buttons on top of the block. You might have to move a piece of material to see or feel those buttons. If one is higher than the rest press it down and see what happens. Hopefully you have the sam thing as I did. I would disconnect all power from the trailer before putting new fuses in and then connect power back up. My problem was when I hooked my batteries back up I touched the positive cable to ground accidentally. Good luck.
Pipeman
Ontario, Canada
Full Member
35 year Fire Fighter(retired)
VE3PJF
Batteries are out. First thing I thought is batt terminals are touching, but not the case. I understand there is a short somewhere most likely pertaining to the fridge, but not sure why everything else went dead. I did find those little electrical blocks with the black button, there were two blocks but I believe only one had a button. I pressed it and nothing happened. I hope the converter did not fry. I can not imagine that as everything is fused including the converter. I plan to put the batts in and retest, I have 12 volt after that I know the converter is not working. Any other advice, this is really irritating.
Ok, this is a dumb question, but if you had your batteries out, how do you know you lost your 12 volt stuff? I'm just a dumb accountant, but would that mean your overhead light don't come on? I guess I might have answered my own question with that, I guess the converter turns the AC to 12 volts for some of that stuff. When you get ready to put the batteries back in, make sure you unplug your AC.
Some converters require the battery to be connected. The battery acts as a feedback source for the converter's control board. This may be the case with your converter. What concerns me more is that you may have fried the electronics in your fridge. If your converter needs to have the battery connected, and it's not, then a high voltage DC spike may have occurred and damaged the your fridge electronics once the shore power was connected. With the fridge fuses blowing, it sounds like the fridge circuit board may be fried but I certainly hope that's not the case.
Cheers
Helen & George VE3INB and Max (Bichon Frise) 2006 Silverado 2500HD D/A, Isspro Gauges, Linex, Westin Nerf Bars, Fold-A-Cover 2006 Cruiser CF30SK.
Reese 16K Slider, Bedsaver, Prodigy Controller, Rearview Camera, JT StrongArms
donn0128 has it right. If you're blowing fuses you have a short, it's that simple. It's not a matter of finding reset buttons to reset, you have to find the short. Check to make sure that the wires to the fuse, at the fuse block, don't have frayed ends shorting out. If not get your volt meter out and start checking for continuity.
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