Kerbouchard
Parker, Colorado
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Back to topic...
The left jack will not extend with weight on it. The jack on the other end of the bar(Right) is working fine. If I take weight off the landing gear the left side jack extends till it hits resistance. Hard to see the gearbox assembly. How hard is it to replace the manual winch assembly. Not quite sure what to call it. It is made by atwood. Anyone had this issue before?
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bpounds
Whittier CA
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Actually we've been on topic all along. Did you check the shear pins, on both sides? Assuming you have, and since it is the side near the crank that is not extending, that is probably not the issue. Now the issue is likely the pins that retain the gears. Either the gear on the horizontal shaft, or the gear on the vertical leg screw, has broken. There is enough friction to drive the gear when not loaded, but the gear is slipping when under load. Probably.
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Kerbouchard
Parker, Colorado
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Is there a schematic online that shows an exploded view of how these go together? I am taking it to a trailer shop two have the axles flipped and a hitch installed. Trying to determine if it is something I would attempt or just have a professional do it.
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bpounds
Whittier CA
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Kerbouchard wrote:Is there a schematic online that shows an exploded view of how these go together? I am taking it to a trailer shop two have the axles flipped and a hitch installed. Trying to determine if it is something I would attempt or just have a professional do it.
I'll see if I can google an Atwood assembly drawing.
I don't know if you can tackle the job, but I can tell you that you've got a potentially dangerous situation there. Your trailer load is supported with only one jack. This puts that one jack in danger of failing too. Be careful!
Edit:
Here is an exploded view.
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/MPD%2071125%20SP%203.14.08.pdf
That probably is not yours, since yours is manual crank. But I think the assembly will be similar to this, but perhaps with an additional gear reduction. The pins like item 32 is what I suspect is broken.
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Irelands child
Upstate New York
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christopherglenn wrote:Shear pins act as fuses. Better to break a .29 part then a $50 part.
That makes absolutely no sense!!!! But - you do as you wish. I'll not chance doing a significant frame twist on my $70,000+ fifth wheel for a cheap part
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Kerbouchard
Parker, Colorado
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bpounds wrote:Kerbouchard wrote:Is there a schematic online that shows an exploded view of how these go together? I am taking it to a trailer shop two have the axles flipped and a hitch installed. Trying to determine if it is something I would attempt or just have a professional do it.
I'll see if I can google an Atwood assembly drawing.
I don't know if you can tackle the job, but I can tell you that you've got a potentially dangerous situation there. Your trailer load is supported with only one jack. This puts that one jack in danger of failing too. Be careful!
Edit:
Here is an exploded view.
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/MPD%2071125%20SP%203.14.08.pdf
That probably is not yours, since yours is manual crank. But I think the assembly will be similar to this, but perhaps with an additional gear reduction. The pins like item 32 is what I suspect is broken.
They are both taking weight. I disconeccted the working one then cranked the other one down with no weight on it. It is a little lower on the left but there is weight on the leg.
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Kerbouchard
Parker, Colorado
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Taking it in Saturday. Need the axles flipped. Let you know diagnosis and cost. Thanks for all the info!
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laknox
Arizona
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Irelands child wrote:christopherglenn wrote:Shear pins act as fuses. Better to break a .29 part then a $50 part.
That makes absolutely no sense!!!! But - you do as you wish. I'll not chance doing a significant frame twist on my $70,000+ fifth wheel for a cheap part
The whole idea of a shear pin is to make a weak point that's =designed= to fail when something is over-stressed. Just like an electrical fuse or circuit breaker is designed to do. You don't have one of these in your wiring when you have a short, and you suddenly have a fire. Which do you want? The leg won't collapse and, if you're paying attention, you won't have undue stress on your frame if you jack with only 1 leg for a few seconds. If you do have a shear pin failure, you should quickly catch it and be able to reverse it to take the pressure off. Remember, this works in =both= directions; you can have a shear pin fail when =retracting= the leg, too.
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Irelands child
Upstate New York
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laknox wrote:Irelands child wrote:christopherglenn wrote:Shear pins act as fuses. Better to break a .29 part then a $50 part.
That makes absolutely no sense!!!! But - you do as you wish. I'll not chance doing a significant frame twist on my $70,000+ fifth wheel for a cheap part
The whole idea of a shear pin is to make a weak point that's =designed= to fail when something is over-stressed. Just like an electrical fuse or circuit breaker is designed to do. You don't have one of these in your wiring when you have a short, and you suddenly have a fire. Which do you want? The leg won't collapse and, if you're paying attention, you won't have undue stress on your frame if you jack with only 1 leg for a few seconds. If you do have a shear pin failure, you should quickly catch it and be able to reverse it to take the pressure off. Remember, this works in =both= directions; you can have a shear pin fail when =retracting= the leg, too.
Lyle
If you can point out to me where Atwood (my landing gear mfr) has specifically said that you should use a Gr2 bolt and that it's to be considered a shear device, I will gladly retract my statements. Until that time, I'll take the road of saying that these parts were designed to be tightly bolted together and that a higher grade bolt is always a positive. This is p/n 70815/6 (19 and 20 on their assembly sheet). 8-}
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/MPD%2071125%20SP%203.14.08.pdf
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bpounds
Whittier CA
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Irelands child wrote:
If you can point out to me where Atwood (my landing gear mfr) has specifically said that you should use a Gr2 bolt and that it's to be considered a shear device, I will gladly retract my statements. Until that time, I'll take the road of saying that these parts were designed to be tightly bolted together and that a higher grade bolt is always a positive. This is p/n 70815/6 (19 and 20 on their assembly sheet). 8-}
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/MPD%2071125%20SP%203.14.08.pdf
Atwood is not going to tell you what grade bolt to use. But they will happily sell you one. Then you can read the head and tell us what grade it is.
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