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ice2fire

Summer = Ontario. Winter = Arizona

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Posted: 04/03/12 05:45pm

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Just to let you all know, it has happened now a THIRD time !! The Texas installed part lasted two days. !!!

The spindles are ezlube, but I don't use that system. I always repack every two years, maybe I'll start repacking every year.

I'm going to try and drill a hole in the spindle for a cotter pin, but it looks pretty hard steel.

1) R-Vision Trail-Lite TT, 19'. TV = 2007 Chevy Trailblazer, 3.42 axle. 4.0L 2) Heartland North Country, on a permanent site in Arizona.

ice2fire

Summer = Ontario. Winter = Arizona

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Posted: 04/03/12 05:53pm

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WyoTraveler wrote:

I was looking at my Dexter axle book. You do have a D washer behind that bend over tab washer don't you?

Yes

ice2fire

Summer = Ontario. Winter = Arizona

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Posted: 04/03/12 05:58pm

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WyoTraveler wrote:

I wouldn't be drilling any holes in the EZ LUBE axle(SPINDLE). WHY NOT ???

The spring tab that goes over the nut. WHERE CAN I GET THESE ?? PICTURE PLEASE

Since I assume your RV has a flat portion on the axle(SPINDLE). YES

You probably should be talking to the people that designed and built the axle. THEY WENT BANKRUPT !! NO WONDER !!

THANKS.

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 04/04/12 10:49am

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ice2fire wrote:

Twice now, last Spring in Toronto, and now yesterday near Amarallo, Texas, the castle nut on the axle spindle has come off while going down the highway, with subsequent extensive damage to the bearings and brake drum, i.e. all have to be replaced on the roadside. This is a dangerous situation.

The castle nut is held onto the spindle thread by means of a flange washer with a tab in it, which gets bent down into one of the gaps in the castle nut, i.e. NOT a cotter pin through the spindle. IMHO, this latter method is better, but it seems I'm stuck with what I've got. It appears the tab must weaken with time or conditions, and allow the castle nut to revolve. Oh, for a left hand thread on the LHS !

Obviously, this tab method is not a strong enough method. This time the mechanic also used red thread glue, but I am concerned this problem could occur again.

Has anyone any permanent solutions to this problem, or even ways of monitoring the strength of the tab ? For example, maybe I should replace the flange washer every 1,000 miles or whatever.

I'm just hoping we'll make it back to Ontario OK ! Thanks.

Assume you used 'new' tab washers and did NOT re-use the old one, right?

-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

mkirsch

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 04/04/12 11:47am

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Isn't the axle HARDENED? Good luck drilling that out.

2002 Chevy 3500 DRW 8.1L/Allison
2000 Palomino B1500
...and the reason why I need a DRW to haul a Palomino:
2004 United 7x14 tandem axle enclosed toy trailer
2011 PJ 8x20 7-ton deckover equipment trailer

ice2fire

Summer = Ontario. Winter = Arizona

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Posted: 04/04/12 04:27pm

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BenK wrote:

Assume you used 'new' tab washers and did NOT re-use the old one, right?

Yes. I'not that trusting ! I took a supply with me as I've had difficulty in finding them.

ice2fire

Summer = Ontario. Winter = Arizona

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Posted: 04/04/12 04:32pm

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mkirsch wrote:

Isn't the axle HARDENED? Good luck drilling that out.

I think you could be right. Hence, I have some concern in that direction.

I guess, I'll just try. If not successful. I'll see if a local machinist's shop can drill it or make me some stainless steel (or similar) tangs.

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 04/04/12 05:14pm

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Suggest you find the root cause before another band aid...

Why is that nut coming off of the safety washer?

Lynnmor

Red Lion

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Posted: 04/04/12 06:15pm

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Turtle n Peeps wrote:

If you (the mechanic) does not get the pre-load on the bearing correct your going to get what you have.

The hub will pound on the nut and try the shear the tab. Lots of force on that little part. If you get it correct there should be no problem. Bearings that grab can cause this also.

If it came to me I would check all the parts out and more than likely replace the bearings. Then pack the new bearing real well and set them to correct pre-load.

I pitty the poor guy that has to take that hub off with red Loctite on the threads.