I assume everybody answering this question has researched the local codes for the OP. Stealing from another post: "Whether your installation of a dedicated 30A receptacle outlet intended strictly for this RV classifies as an exception can ONLY be answered by your local authority (inspector, town office, etc)....they have the final say on these types of scenario's."
First question I'd ask is do you really need a 30 amp circuit? My TT lives in my driveway and is plugged into a dedicaed 20 amp circuit, simply to keep the battery charged. We don't ever use the trailer while in the driveway, or run the A/C, lights, micro's etc.
As I said, it is only plugged in to keep the battery charged, which draws only a few milliamps.
Unless you plan on running the A/C, you can probably just plug it in to a convenience outlet with little worries of tripping the breaker.
If you choose to install a 30 amp circuit, whether it needs to be of a GFI type is completely up to your local building agency. Here in California, it is not uncommon for them to require all garage outlets to be on either GFI or to be on a GFI breaker.
You never see a motorcycle parked outside of a psychiatrist's office
Mine is plugged into a 20 at home (was easier then dragging the 50 cord in and out). I can run 1 ac, or nuke somthing without problems. I have a kill-a-watt in a outlet, so I can watch the voltage when I am on less then 50 amp service. It helps that I have a 50' 20 amp #10 extension cord. The smaller cord (larger number) the more voltage drop you will see as you load it, #10 is rated for 30 amps, #12 is 20, #14 is 15. Using an oversized cord I have minimal voltage drop.