LarryJM

NoVa

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Joined: 11/09/2007

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jbrowning wrote: How did you attach the screen to the louvered door? I was wondering about winter time and the cold air coming into the trailer and making me cold?
Thanks
Jim
The refer should be insulated on the sides with a baffle at the top so cold air intrusion should not be an issue.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
ALL TRAILER MODS>>ETERNABOND INSTALL>>RAINKAP INSTALL
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SWD

Land of Living Skies

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Joined: 06/07/2005

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I used a glue gun to stick the screen on the inside of the louvres.
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jbrowning

Colorado Springs Co.

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Joined: 02/26/2012

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Hi, this is what I see when I look at the top of the fridge looking to the outside wall.

This is what I see on the right side from the back of the fridge.

This is what I see on the left side from the back of the fridge.

So do I need to go and get insulation and stuff along the sides of the fridge? What if I do the same thing on top?
Thank you
Jim
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Lady Fitzgerald

Tempe, AZ, USA, Earth

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Joined: 04/26/2011

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dublittle wrote: This may be 2 bad ideas, but here goes. 1. Hot glue the fiberglass screen on the back. Lay the screen on then run a bead of hot glue and push it into the screen with a putty knife while hot. 2. I have some really strong double stick tape. It might work too. Sorry that's the best I could quickly come up with.
Hot glue will fail sooner or later (usually sooner). Double stick tape is a better idea.
Jeannie
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advntrs

greenwood, Indiana

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Joined: 02/27/2008

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I built a small wooden frame, to which I stapled fiberglass screen and it just sets inside the opening and is kept in place with velcro strips.
08 F-350 Super Crew 6.4
08 28' Keystone VR-1
"Every man dies, but not every man truly lives"
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LVJJJ

NW WASHINGTON

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Joined: 12/29/2006

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On our '85 Wilderness I'm restoring, I found that the side walls in the refer compartment were not insulated. I got some 3/4" thick polyurethane (the rigid stuff), cut it slightly larger than the 3/4" framing "studs" and shoved it in place. It's a little tight in there but it's manageable.
1965 CHEVY VAN, 292 "Big Block 6"
1985 WILDERNESS 3000CL
2008 HHR
L(Larry)V(Vicki)J(Jennifer)J(Jesse)J(Jason)
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U.P. BLDR

Upper Peninsula of Michigan

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Joined: 07/23/2005

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LVJJJ wrote: On our '85 Wilderness I'm restoring, I found that the side walls in the refer compartment were not insulated. I got some 3/4" thick polyurethane (the rigid stuff), cut it slightly larger than the 3/4" framing "studs" and shoved it in place. It's a little tight in there but it's manageable.
I did the same when rebuilding my Sunline. I used 1" rigid insulation on both sides of the fridge, there was nothing in there from the factory. Don't have any pictures of it directly, but you can see the side of the fridge above the tub in this pic and the silver insulation on the side.
1981 Sunline 17 1/2SB - under construction
2003 Toyota Tundra SR5 TRD 4x4 4.7lt
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LVJJJ

NW WASHINGTON

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UP, it's amazing how many areas the manufacturers leave uninsulated. Between the bathtub wall and under the fridge area it was wide open to the outside vent door. Discovered that when replacing the tub walls that were water damaged. There were even factory holes in the floor above the holding tanks that let cold air in. All fixed now. For some strange reason, I love rebuilding and fixing up trailers. The DW thought it would never be towed again, but it's almost ready for the road.
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jbrowning

Colorado Springs Co.

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Can I put insulation on top of the fridge? Because there is nothing there but open space leading to the vent door.
Thanks
Jim
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U.P. BLDR

Upper Peninsula of Michigan

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Joined: 07/23/2005

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jbrowning wrote: Can I put insulation on top of the fridge? Because there is nothing there but open space leading to the vent door.
Thanks
Jim
You can, but you need to keep the back open up to the roof vent.
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