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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Reese Dual - Cam = FAIL

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jerem0621

Sequatchie, TN

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Joined: 05/17/2009

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Posted: 04/03/12 07:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron3rd wrote:

Hi Jerem,
Good thing it did not happen on the open road! Looks like that Husky hitch head is not designed for the forces exerted by the dual cam set up. There's plenty of conventional WD hitches you can pick up on craigslist and elsewhere at decent prices.


I could only imagine the possible damage from a sudden loss of WD and WD bars bouncing down the road at 55 mph. With conventional hitches the bars are physically chained to the trailer, even if they come out of the hitch head.

I think you are correct about the dual cam, The upward force of the dual cam must have created some kind of fulcrum that simply overcame the worn husky hitch head. Plus, I think I had too much hitch head angle for my set up. I would caution folks adding dual cam to an older worn trunnion style (non Reese) hitch that there is a chance that the dual cam will rip the trunnions out.

Airstreamer67 wrote:

Even though the original sway contol friction bars don't get much support on the forum anymore, they do work quite well. My experiences over the past 25 years tell me they work. I've found no reason to change, especially since they are effective, economical and very easy to use.


My dual friction sway control set up was VERY stable, I simply wanted the best I could afford, However, I am now a believer in the simpler, proven, Friction sway control.

Eaz-Lift has a deal right now, you get the round bar WD hitch with dual sway bar mounts, shank, 2 5/16 ball installed, mini ball for the sway control installed and one friction sway control arm for About $250.00 free shipping. This is from PPL motorhomes

Eaz-Lift

They also have the same set up with the pro series

Pro Series Hitch

Any real advantage of one over the other? Price is the same, same exact set up on each.

Both have dual friction sway control mounts, etc.

Thanks!


TT: 1995 Layton 2910
Tow Vehicle: 1999 F-350, v10, 2wd, Crew Cab, Dually
Hitch: Draw-Tite Trunnion WD Hitch
Sway Control: Valley dual friction sway control
Brake Control: Tekonsha Voyager

"It's Kind of Fun To Do The Impossible"
~Walt Disney~


93Cobra2771

East Tennessee

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Posted: 04/03/12 08:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/rvs/2900619813.html

$200 and a full setup is all yours. And located in Soddy Daisy to boot. If I didn't have my setup I'd be down there tonight to get it.


Richard White
2011 F150 Ecoboost SCREW 145" 4x4
Firestone Ride-Rite Air Springs/Air Lift Wireless Controller
2006 Sportsmen by KZ 2604P (30')
Hensley Arrow


eric james

Sioux Falls, SD

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Posted: 04/03/12 09:32pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

93Cobra2771 wrote:

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/rvs/2900619813.html

$200 and a full setup is all yours. And located in Soddy Daisy to boot. If I didn't have my setup I'd be down there tonight to get it.


Dang that looks like $700 worth of gear!


2009 Keystone Passport UL 290BH
2003 Ford Expedition EB 5.4L/3.73



jerem0621

Sequatchie, TN

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Posted: 04/03/12 09:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I actually called this person earlier today. $200.00 for a complete DC set up... VERY CHEEP..

He said that he got a new trailer with a higher tongue weight and got a new hitch or something like that.

I am looking at going with a Reese Trunnion Head and Trunnion bars, not 100% sure yet, but it is a possibility, I can use the new style bars with the dual cam that I currently have.

Folks, I have had a lot of time to think about what happened. I think that the dual-cam is a solid, proven, performer.

I had old worn out parts, with a hitch head that was at too steep of an angle and it was just too much for my old system.

The Dual-Cam accelerated a failure that was SURE to happen, and thank GOD it didn't happen at 60-65 MPH, it happened at .5 mph in the campground.

I will post about my decision, Probably start from zero and try again with the Dual Cam sway control with brand new Reese products. (after all, I own it)

BTW, should my Husky adjustable shank work for a Reese Hitch head?

Thanks!

Jeremiah

BenK

SF BayArea

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Joined: 04/18/2002

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Posted: 04/04/12 10:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd be very weary of mixing and matching components from different brands
on such a highly stressed assembly. More so with inter-locking and dynamically
moving parts.

There is too much to go into here, but note that there are tons and tolerances
for the mating parts MUST adhere to

To me, it is similar to using a crank shaft from a Ford in a GM V8. You might
get lucky to make it 'seem' to fit, but the tolerances would be a killer


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Jayco25E

PA

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Joined: 02/14/2010

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Posted: 04/04/12 12:08pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Airstreamer67 wrote:

Even though the original sway contol friction bars don't get much support on the forum anymore, they do work quite well. My experiences over the past 25 years tell me they work. I've found no reason to change, especially since they are effective, economical and very easy to use.


X'S 2


2008 Chevy Avalanche
2005 Jayco 25E HTT
2 retired Greyhounds


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