kcstepp1992
Indiana
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I am going to be applying Liquid Rubber on my roof and looked in the search menu to find out how others prepped their old roof first and couldnt find much.
The guy who had this before me believed in caulk........Lots of it. My DS was up there the other day and filled a couple of grocery bags with excess caulk. I still have to remove all the vent covers still and get the rest of it up.
If you have put on a liquid roof, what have you used to help take off the old caulk? WD 40? Acetone? I think I have read where both of those have been used but couldnt find those posts. I know WD 40 was great at cleaning off the old cracked striping on the walls.
Also, do you have a preference of putting the liquid rubber on first and letting it cure before putting your vent covers on and then using Dicor on them, or do you put the vent covers on first, then liquid rubber and then Dicor? I just want to make sure this is done as good as possible and I know there are suggestions and experience here.
Thanks
Ken
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donhoward49
Portland, Oregon
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I have not tried this, but their are some videos on You Tube showing roof renewal. Good luck
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J Walker
Oakton, Va
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I applied Liquid Rubber to my EPDM roof a few years ago. I removed no caulk. I never remove caulk unless it is peeling which it never has. It doesn't look bad but I wouldn't want that appearance on my sidewalls. Nobody sees the roof anyway. If you scrape your caulk off you risk damaging your roof and I would not do that. WD-40, never use it on an EPDM roof. No petroleum product should be used on an EPDM roof. It will be absorbed and cause the roof to expand and detach from its bond with the underlayemnt. I didn't bother to remove any vents when applying Rubber Roof. BTW Rubber Roof is excellent.
Jim Walker
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kcstepp1992
Indiana
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I wish I didnt have to remove the caulk Jim, but in some places it was 4 inches thick. I am prepping spots on it with eternabond as well so that it is protected in the damaged areas before the rubber roofing goes on. Id love to not have to remove the vents. It would be a huge time saver. I may do it to clean them though. I also have to put in a new skylight cause the one we have seems to have water and other funk in between the two panels of plexiglass
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sundancer268
Charlevoix
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To remove the caulking from my roof, I used a heat Gun and a flexable Putty Knife. To protect the roof from being gouged with the knife I rounded the corners with a file. I am still working on removing the remaining caulk around the vents (4) and Eterna Bonding them this spring before rolling the coach out of the barn. Take your time, I have been working on this since last spring. Prior to adding the Eterna-Bond I cleaned every seam with Acitone.
U. S. Navy (RETIRED) 1993
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kcstepp1992
Indiana
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Thanks Sundancer.
I will take my time but I dont have that much. I have a DW cracking the whip. She is wanting to leave out end of June in our rig so Ill spend a couple of long days working on my tan haha.
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Bill1374
northern New York
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You may want to take the covers off and reseal the vents directly. It's one area thats known for leaks.
Bill
2011 Hitchhiker Discover America 345RSE
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fcooper
Richmond Hill, Georgia
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Bill1374 wrote:You may want to take the covers off and reseal the vents directly. It's one area thats known for leaks.
Bill
I agree. I recently had a minor leak, and it was a caulk problem inside the vent cover that was not visible with the vent cover in place.
Fred
Fred & Vicki
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kcstepp1992
Indiana
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Yeah I was planning on taking all the vent covers off. Im also putting on a new skylight. Plan on using butyl tape, eternabond, and caulk wherever needed. I also plan on taking off the edge pieces and sealing it up with eternabond and putting it back on with stainless steel screws as well. Ive dealt with the water.......I want it done right and I want it to be good.
Thanks for all the input
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FIRE UP
Ramona, CA. USA
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kc,
My son and I did the "re-coat" of the rubber roof a couple of years ago on our '99 Bounder. The roof was almost completely "Black" from deterioration. It never leaked but sure was ugly up there. Anyway, we happened to use the "Dicor" products that were recommended. In the process that was recommended, I had already removed ALL the caulking around all the fixtures on the roof. That is, all the vents, large and small, the sky light for the shower, the ladder ends, all of it.
Then I used Dicor caulking for all of that replacement. Once that was cured we scrubbed the roof good with a good brush, some soap and water. Then,we used the "prep" liquid that was recommended prior to application of the top coat. That prep liquid is a cleaner that has to be applied and pressure washed off. Then the rubber is appropriately prepped for the new coating. We then applied two coats, approximately two hours apart and it was done. That was a long day. But, it was recommended that it be done all at one time so there's no contamination in between cleaning, prepping coating.
Here's how it came out.
Scott
Scott and Karla
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