I have a 327 Wanderer and found two soft spots by the rear vent doors.
Ended up replacing the floor all the way to the entry door.
I'm no carpenter,but I still managed the job myself.
Total cost about 375.00 plus my time.
I used pressure treated 2x4s instead of the cheap 2x2s and did a much better job of insulating.
The water was coming in around the rear windows and running down the inside of the walls.
Sorry to hear about your problem. When our Tahoe (THOR) was in it's first year, the tub developed a crack at the drain. It saturated the OSB floor around it. They fixed it under warranty and I opened the skirt underneath to let it dry out. Not a big fan of OSB for floors - would like to see 7/8" or thicker marine plywood.
After looking at the construction of the unit, they placed the walls on the floor and the floor spans the outriggers. This makes it very difficult to replace it like new IMO. I have noticed that OSB re-solidifies and becomes solid after it dries out. It might not be in the shape you want though. (bent, warped, ect). Do you live in a hot dry area during the summer? I would try drying it out without putting stress on the soft areas. ...worth a try.
BobWanderer wrote: YUP, already replaced the floor under the bed/front storage area and getting ready to do the cargo area. 05 Wanderer 24WTB by Thor.
Pulled out the "partical board" and put 3/4" plywood in its place.
Put 3 coats of "Thompsons water seal" on it before it went in.
Good Luck
Have you determined where the water was getting in?
NOPE !!
I found a forum post where someone else had the same problem with a Thor camper. They seemed to think that rainwater was getting behind the diamond plate angle at the base of the exterior wall. If it pools up on there, it can seep into the bottom fabric membrane and soak the fiberglass insulation. Once the insulation is wet, it will wick the moisture to the flooring. It will also never dry without any airflow, and the rot begins.
I had a similar problem on my kz. Delamination on the rear passenger wall was the first sign of trouble. Went to the roof and the whole corner above the wall was spongy. Water got under the membrane, wicked up the roof, leaked down the wall, saturated the floor under the linolium.
Check the roof real good for soft spots and look for delamination for indication of leaks.
Fix was to pull up the membrane, replace the roof decking, fix rotten beams with 'Rot Doctor', seal the membrane wall interface with Eternabond tape. Rot on wall and floor was not too bad so I just pulled up to dry and put back down.
Your rig was built by Thor of California, they are out of business, reopened as MVP, they are also out of business. As others have said repair it yourself and enjoy it.
Wow. Water can sure cause some problems. I have used a product from Composet that helps re-solidify soft wood and bond delaminated areas. It is a very thin epoxy, designed for marine use. It will penetrate and flow into areas very easily. It is something like Rot Doctor. They can be found at www.delamrepair.com
Have a couple projects around the house/yard to take care of this spring, then I'll dig into it. I spent many years working as a carpenter, so the repairs are certainly within the scope of my abilities. Having the time to do them is my limiting factor, but the unit is useless as it sits, so I'll find a way to make time for it. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions so far, please keep them coming
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