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 > tires replacement

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bobwalter

Treasure Coast of Florida

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Posted: 04/13/12 05:29pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Replant,
How do you like the Hankooks? It is going to be time to replace my tires soon. I have six Michelins on the rear and two hankooks on the front. The Michelins are cracked on the sidewalls but the Hankooks are fine. I am not sure right now of the dates but If I remember right they are 2007. I am afraid to change brands because my rig handles like a dream. Never any wandering. I am considering the Hankooks for the rears because of all the Michelin cracking reports. Where did you find a Discount Tire in Vero?

Bob


Bob .....N8DUV
Lynda
in sunny Sebastian, Florida


Replant

Someplace

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Posted: 04/13/12 07:50pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bobwalter wrote:

Replant,
How do you like the Hankooks? It is going to be time to replace my tires soon. I have six Michelins on the rear and two hankooks on the front. The Michelins are cracked on the sidewalls but the Hankooks are fine. I am not sure right now of the dates but If I remember right they are 2007. I am afraid to change brands because my rig handles like a dream. Never any wandering. I am considering the Hankooks for the rears because of all the Michelin cracking reports. Where did you find a Discount Tire in Vero?

Bob

Hi Bob,
Discount Tire is closer to you than to me. They are located N/W of I-95 and Malabar Rd. (Rte 516). Go N/B on I-95 and Exit at SR516. Go west and as you cross I-95 you can't miss seeing them on the right.
My 6 Michelin LT245/75 R16E tires are 6 years old and one was made in '05. They came with the rig and still have 13/32 thread if you can believe that. I thought even new tires had only 12/32 but I measured them with a tire thread depth gauge not a ruler. I took them off because of the cracked sidewalls and the duals were kissing even w/80 PSI. I saved them to put on a CJ7 Jeep but when I got home and got a better look at the cracked sidewalls they are worse than I thought.
The ride up to Palm Bay / W.Melbourne was smooth w/no problem. Coming home on the smaller LT225/75 R16E Hankooks the RABS light came on and stayed on. It felt like I was in a strong gusty wind but the vegetation showed no movement. Very strange. Then I lost power to my cigarette lighter so my rear view camera system shut down along with my GPS so I couldn't compare my speed with the smaller tires. Before I got to RT.60 swaying eased up or I just got used to it but when I got into heavier local traffic the brakes locked up after I stopped for a light. I was lucky to get home without a tow truck. When I gave the wheels a brief inspection with my IR temperature gun it was obvious that the front/right wheel was hot - 245 degrees in addition to the RABS going kaput. Also a rear tail light lens fell off, and I had no power to stop lights, turn signals and hazard warning which is all part of the same power source. On top of that my fuel filter clogged up and I could barely keep the engine running long enough to get into the driveway before it died completely. I replaced both tail lights, bought a new fuel filter also a new master cylinder at your AutoZone and paid for new front hoses but they still haven't come in. I guess they're on a "Slow Boat From China" to paraphrase an old song.
So I answered one of your questions but won't be able to pass judgement on the tires until I get the brake system completely rebuilt. However I am confidant that they are good.
Al





bobwalter

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Posted: 04/14/12 06:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wow. Sounds like you got your full years worth of problems in one trip. At least when I had all those problems they were spread out over a few months. Isn't it fun having an older rig?
Thanks for the info on Discount Tire. I will check them out. As I said before, I am reluctant to chance the tire combination because mine handles sooooooo well. But I really dont want Michelins.

Good luck getting the rig on the road again. Post your impressions of the tires when you do.

Bob

Replant

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Posted: 04/14/12 08:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bobwalter wrote:

Wow. Sounds like you got your full years worth of problems in one trip. At least when I had all those problems they were spread out over a few months. Isn't it fun having an older rig?
Thanks for the info on Discount Tire. I will check them out. As I said before, I am reluctant to chance the tire combination because mine handles sooooooo well. But I really dont want Michelins.

Good luck getting the rig on the road again. Post your impressions of the tires when you do.

Bob

The swaying on I-95 could be the RABS dump valve pulsating but not closing fully and my R/F wheel slowly releasing pressure but dragging long enough to pull to the right and then releasing (due to a defective brake hose ?)
My brake troubles started when we installed new rear wheel cylinders, changed the cruddy fluid, bled all wheels twice and wound up with a spongy pedal that went to the floor. This could be a bad master cylinder or more likely dirt in the dump valve. I'll replace the M/C and brake lines anyway.
It's amazing how things go wrong and if I leave the rig sit for a day or two the troubles go away. For example the loss of power to my stop and hazard lights. When I prepared to replaced them there was power back. Also, I pulled back the dash panel and saw that the ground wire disappeared from the cigarette lighter. Between losing that and the tail light lens falling off you would think I was riding on the Long Island Expressway instead of I-95. I'm thinking of bypassing the RABS control valve to defeat the system. It's supposed to be a safety device but can work against you if the control valve goes bananas. Been driving for 65 years in all kinds of weather and should know how to stop a vehicle.
I forgot to mention that the Michelins did give a nice ride but they couldn't swap my spare for one because the wide 245 could not be fully raised into position without caving in the basement compartment. They had to put the 10 year old Michelin 225/75R16 D back on the carrier. I don't like the deep rust on the rim so why carry around a worthless spare. I'll just carry a compressor and tire plugs which have always served me well.

* This post was edited 04/14/12 08:40am by Replant *

j-d

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Posted: 04/14/12 10:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Al, the jerkiness in the front sounds like it could be a sticking caliper. We had driven 50 miles, part of it on I95. We stopped to check in at a state park and on the drive from ranger station to campground at 25MPH the front end started jerking. I first thought it was a brake and would look at it on the campsite. Then I wondered if it was a tire and required attention sooner so I stopped and got out. Driver's side tire seemed OK, wheel didn't look like it was cockeyed so I went on to the passenger side. Tire looked OK but approaching the wheel was like walking up to a BBQ grill. I went out and bought pads, hoses, and rebuilt calipers for both sides and replaced the passenger side on the site, the driver side when we got home. Between Torque, Rust, No Breaker Bar and Wrong Socket, I didn't take the rotors off till after another camping trip or two. When I did, I had the rotors turned because I could see the new pads weren't in full contact with the rotor surfaces. Rotors didn't look bad otherwise and the pedal wasn't pulsing, but the smoothed rotors really improved the braking.
Your master cylinder may be crudded up, and if it is, I'd suggest changing the calipers while you're in there with the hoses. And with all that work, turn rotors, get new pads, pack wheel bearings.... It's called Mission Creep, Brother.
Your chassis is OBD-1 so the RABS has its own diagnostic process which sends blink codes to the RABS light. But I don't know that process. That sensor, called VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is right at the top of the differential housing. Just clean the area around it, disconnect one plug, remove one screw and it's out. Inexpensive replacement at chain auto supply stores. Be sure you reinstall with an O-Ring. I could be wrong, but I don't think the RABS needs a Code Reset to make the light go away. If you solve the problem I think the light just won't come on.


If God's your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

Replant

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Posted: 04/14/12 11:29am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi John,
When I was on I-95 I didn't realize that the brake was hanging that's what had me puzzled. Usually a vehicle rides better with new tires. When I got home it was apparent what was happening. A week ago I visited AutoZone and Advance Auto and came home with a new M/C, VSS for the rear end, fuel filter, ordered and paid for new front brake hoses that still haven't come in yet. Then I ordered all kinds of good stuff from Amazon. The series 32 Bargman lamps aren't exact replacements for the series 91 so I had to do a little engineering. The new install looks much better than the original. Oddly enough, the light with a tag holder is cheaper than one without it so I bought 2 with the holder. Now I have 3 places to hang my tag.
It seems to me that the calipers can't be difficult to rebuild. A kit costs about $11 whereas a rebuilt caliper costs $45. Most people say buy rebuilts but there's no harm in taking them apart to see if the walls are OK. BTW, I had 4 of the valve stem caps that you like that were on my duals and I forgot to retrieve them from Discount Tire. It was a bad day.
Al

j-d

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Posted: 04/14/12 11:29am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gOOgle search using: "ford rabs diagnostic" (w/out quotes) generated enough hits that I think you could find how to run the test and interpret the results.

Replant

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Posted: 04/14/12 11:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

j-d wrote:

gOOgle search using: "ford rabs diagnostic" (w/out quotes) generated enough hits that I think you could find how to run the test and interpret the results.

What do you think of bypassing the RABS at the valve? Also, I wonder if the control module was messing up the power to my stop light circuit? The power came back when I checked it a couple of days later. I 'm thinking of disconnecting the lines at the valve and coupling them but leaving the VSS in place.

j-d

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Posted: 04/14/12 11:53am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have no experience to base advice upon.

I heard that the early RABS systems wouldn't work if they hadn't actually been forced into operation occasionally and that doesn't happen much in most vehicles, let alone an RV.

IF the chassis was OBD-2, I'd say definitely don't bypass the system. It'd probably set codes right and left, maybe slow the engine down, who knows.

I doubt your stand-alone system would do that, but I still don't have the experience to say.

Because of the uncertainty, my suggestion has to be what I would do. I would try to get it working or at least silenced with correct parts and procedures before I started on cobbing the system.

Dakzuki

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Posted: 04/14/12 12:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Go to a Michelin dealer (like Discount Tire) have them inspected and have the dealer contact Michelin. Michelin have been very good about replacing tires or pro-rating towards another set. Lots of folks in a View/Navion group I am a member of have been doing it. You should be able to get made right.


2011 Itasca Navion 24J
2000 Chev Tracker Toad


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