Hillbilly Camper
North Carolina
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We just bought a Coachmen Apex 215RBK, and were having trouble with the slide working correctly due to battery issues. The owner's manual is a little vague on where this manual slide option is located... does anyone happen to know right off the bat where the manual slide crank is on the camper? We would really appreciate it! Thanks ahead of time!
2012 Coachmen Apex - 25 Footer
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skipnchar
Topeka or somewhere else
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Joined: 12/17/2003
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Try looking on the opposite side of the trailer right across from the center of the slide room. My LR slide is located between the wheels inside the wheel well.
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Hillbilly Camper
North Carolina
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I have heard from a really good friend of mine to look opposite the slide for the manual slide crank location, but have had no success. According to the manual, it is supposed to be located above the slide motor transmission, but we haven't found that yet, as it doesn't specify exactly WHERE that is lol. New to this camper, as we just purchased it about a month or so ago for the wife's Valentine's Day present. First time camping with it will be this weekend, should be an experience to say the least! Thanks for any help, though!
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kbroadnax
San Antonio
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Check above 2nd step near frame of trailer, that is where I found the manual crank opening for my livingroom slide. Happened to see it while sitting in a chair and there it was, can not see it if the steps are retracted.
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hmknightnc
Wilmington, NC
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Hook jumper cables from your Tow Vehicle to the TT battery to operate the slide if it is the battery that is the issue. This will also charge your battery some.
Are you having this problem with the trailer plugged into 110AC with converter operating as well?
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4x4Bob
California.
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We went through this also. Very vague instructions in owners manual so I called Jayco.
Much to my surprise, I was told that I would find a section of the underseal with a cut in hatch. Open that hatch and then attach a 9 volt battery to side of the slide motor. Then turn with a wrench, not provided.
A little some thing not covered during walk through or in any sales information.
Suggest that you contact the manufacture for the information that you need.
Bob
2001 2500 Silverado LS 4x4 6.0, 4.10
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afob3
Maryville, TN
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Just googled and looked at a picture of this model's slide. It uses the Schwintec system & doesn't have a manual crank system.
Click here for videos and manuals.
In a nutshell there are two options. Pull back the stripping at the top or each slide. Unscrew the motor and lift it an inch or so. Once lifted out of the gears it will free wheel. BUT... you can't lock it in place for travel unless you lock / strap it in place.
Option two requires getting access to the controler box to see the error code and over-ride it.
This was a concern on mine too that was barely mentioned durring walk thru so I did some googling & have a paper copy of the instructions in the TT.
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ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
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Joined: 11/11/2010
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afob3 wrote:Just googled and looked at a picture of this model's slide. It uses the Schwintec system & doesn't have a manual crank system.
Click here for videos and manuals.
In a nutshell there are two options. Pull back the stripping at the top or each slide. Unscrew the motor and lift it an inch or so. Once lifted out of the gears it will free wheel. BUT... you can't lock it in place for travel unless you lock / strap it in place.
Option two requires getting access to the controler box to see the error code and over-ride it.
This was a concern on mine too that was barely mentioned durring walk thru so I did some googling & have a paper copy of the instructions in the TT.
You can also unplug the motors from the control box. That will unlock them. Then you push it in and plug the motors back in to lock them.
My new trailer (picked up Monday) has this Swintek system. I never saw the dealer operate it. I brought it home, parked in a level part of the driveway, put the stabilizer jacks down and ran the slide out so the kids could check out the new trailer. Went to bring it back in and encounterd a problem right away. One end came in about 3 inches and stopped; the other end would keep coming in.
Hmm . . . Went out and lifted the stabilizer jack off the ground . . . problem solved. Lesson learned . . . they set these things up with the "normal" stress on the frame. Any difference in the stress (like putting 200 to 300 pounds of upward pressure on the stabilizer jacks so you don't get a lot of trailer shake) can cause it to bind.
ERS
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Hillbilly Camper
North Carolina
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ExRocketScientist wrote:afob3 wrote:Just googled and looked at a picture of this model's slide. It uses the Schwintec system & doesn't have a manual crank system.
Click here for videos and manuals.
In a nutshell there are two options. Pull back the stripping at the top or each slide. Unscrew the motor and lift it an inch or so. Once lifted out of the gears it will free wheel. BUT... you can't lock it in place for travel unless you lock / strap it in place.
Option two requires getting access to the controler box to see the error code and over-ride it.
This was a concern on mine too that was barely mentioned durring walk thru so I did some googling & have a paper copy of the instructions in the TT.
You can also unplug the motors from the control box. That will unlock them. Then you push it in and plug the motors back in to lock them.
My new trailer (picked up Monday) has this Swintek system. I never saw the dealer operate it. I brought it home, parked in a level part of the driveway, put the stabilizer jacks down and ran the slide out so the kids could check out the new trailer. Went to bring it back in and encounterd a problem right away. One end came in about 3 inches and stopped; the other end would keep coming in.
Hmm . . . Went out and lifted the stabilizer jack off the ground . . . problem solved. Lesson learned . . . they set these things up with the "normal" stress on the frame. Any difference in the stress (like putting 200 to 300 pounds of upward pressure on the stabilizer jacks so you don't get a lot of trailer shake) can cause it to bind.
First I would like to thank all the kind souls that replied in any way to my question. Secondly, these 2 posts were spot on. The problem ended up NOT being a battery issue as I suspected (and yes we did the jumper cable thing lol) but an issue with a constant supply of power coming from the slide controller to the switch. Ended up having to call an RV repairman that lived right over the hill from us to come out and fix it... and Bob Ledfords in SC received a copy of the bill this morning via fax machine.
$230 dollars later the problem was fixed -- he ended up doing a little rewiring and tied it into our light switch to make it work. Not a problem - just have to make sure the light switch is in the "on" position and the slide switch works. Camping trip went pretty good after that, even though I worried all weekend about whether the slide would go back in at the end of the weekend LOL! It did, all is well, just waiting on the refund from Bob Ledfords RV's.
The motors ARE located near the top of the slide track, and just peel back the molding to push them up. Kinda glad I didn't, though, as Gary rescued us by coming by to fix us up.
Thanks again for all the tips and info from everyone. Very nice site here, glad I joined! Thanks to NC Hauler for turning me on to this place!
P.S. HUGE shoutout to Gary Lovelace at Motorsports Plus, without him coming by we would have been in an even bigger world of hurt. Anyone around the western NC area that has an emergency repair to be done just PM me and I have his cell #. I will be more than happy to pass it along!
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