willald
NC
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mccsix wrote:Why not use an inexpensive transformer 110v to 12v? You can find them on ebay for $5 and handle the small wattage you need.
..Just a guess, but I bet one of the reasons the OP (original poster) bought a 12V TV, was so that he could use it when not hooked up to 110V power, and without having to run the generator. Using a 110v to 12v transformer would pretty much rule that out.
Like I said, just a guess, but if I bought a 12V TV, I'd definitely want to wire it so that it could be used when 'boondocking' without 110V power.
Will
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Qualcity
Aurora, CO
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Exactly Will!
Thanks for the link to doing pretty much the same thing with your CPAP machine. Good reading.
It's looking like I will have to try and find out what 12 volt circuts are nearest to the bedroom TV cabinet and try to trace it back to see if it's fused and what the voltage is with the existing appliances on the circut turned on. I am hoping that the bathroom lights will be a good option. If not, then it looks like I will have to take a look at running a new line from the box.
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lanerd
Newport, OR
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pacific-sun wrote:mccsix wrote:Why not use an inexpensive transformer 110v to 12v? You can find them on ebay for $5 and handle the small wattage you need.
X2 I did that and it works great!
The OP said he wanted to use the tv while dry camping and no 120v available.
How close are you to the battery compartment? Is it possible to run a wire (with an inline fuse) from your battery to where the TV is going to be located? Some times you can find where a bundle of wire from the battery compartment will go up through the floor and then maybe you can use a cabinet to hide the wire.
Here is a calculator that you can determine the voltage drop by gauge of wire used. Scroll down to the calculator and plug in the distance and amps required and it will provide the correct info.
Good luck
Ron
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Kennedycamper
Algoa, Texas
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According to the electric code, you could use 18 gauge copper wire for 4 amps, but I would go at least 16 gauge copper, because someone might plug something else into it later. Don't tap the light circuit. Go to the fuse box, or battery.
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the_armadillo
SE Texas
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I found that the bedroom TV that the manufacturer installed when they built my rig is also a 12 volt unit which they run off of a transformer plugged into an outlet built into the TV cabinet. I too want to be able to run on 12 volts without having to run my inverter. My plan is to add a 12 volt run into the cabinet and then put in a DPDT (on-on) switch and cut into the transformer 12 volt leads so that I can either run direct from battery or thru xfmr when on line/genny. The way my cabinet is built I can pull the drawers out and follow the plumbing and power wiring from my water pump back to the fuse panel. In our RV there is room along this run even thru the wall areas. Not knowing the configuration of your TV cabinet and RV, you may see if there is way to fish/follow existing utility runs in the base of the cabinets. I usually use Ancor 2 conductor marine jacketed wire (duplex) when adding new 12 volt runs. Suggestion above to use at least 16 AWG wire is a wise recommendation.
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MustangGT
Athens, Alabama
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I'm not an electrician, but TV's used to be susceptible to damage by running on low voltage (current?). They wouldn't shut down, just get dimmer and dimmer. Are they still? So keeping the TV on its own 12V circuit would about eliminate that problem as long as the 12 volts was continuous and not off a battery.
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jvander
Indianapolis
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I recommend running a dedicated wire right off the 12V fuse block, there are probably some open slots. The easiest will be to run it underneath the chassis, there are already several wires that run the length of the coach for lights etc, just find that bundle and wire-tie your wire to it. Sometimes you can even slip it into the split loom that the chassis wires are bundled in. Exposure won't be an issue with running wires under the coach, after all that is exactly how the chassis manufacturer runs their wires.
Be mindful of the gauge of wire you use. The voltage drop with DC current over long wire runs is significant. Google will turn up any number of charts showing the gauge that is required for a given voltage/amperage draw. Off the top of my head I think you will need 10 ga. for a 36' run of 4A. But you should double check me on that.
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Just Bob
SD/CT/FL/WY
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pacific-sun wrote:mccsix wrote:Why not use an inexpensive transformer 110v to 12v? You can find them on ebay for $5 and handle the small wattage you need.
X2 I did that and it works great! X-3 Mine came with the converter 120VAC to 12VDC
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SteveAE
Bend, Oregon
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You should have plenty of power avalable in your bathroom circuit(s).
Try tapping into the lighting or fan wires and see if your TV works.
4 amps is less current than four incadescant bulbs draw. If you find your are short of power due to voltage drop caued caused by other loads (most likely lights), change to LED's and you will have plenty of power.
Have fun,
Steve
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Janss
Sedona, AZ
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Qualcity, will you please share what brand/model your new TV is and where you bought it. I am thinking of replacing my old-style bedroom tv also, and happen to have a 12v plug nearby, so having a dual voltage TV sounds like a good idea to me.
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