I have had guys tell me that they do not pull that much power. A number of SAR's use them for med's (as well as other things ) and with a regular battery and running the vehicle to and from work that keeps the batteries charged with the fridge and to start the vehicle.
They are generally a lot better in cooling as well, plus you do not have to have 100% level.
This is a product that you get what you pay for the more expensive are better insulated, some have a thermal cover, and the better ones use less power.
2002 GMC 2500HD 4x4 4 Door
1992 Northern Lite 9'- 6" Camper
Homemade Cargo Trailer for hauling supplies
Advanced Elements Kayaks
Border Collie Guard Dog
I have one of those 50 quart ARB portable 12v fridge/freezers that draws about 2.7amps. With a duty cycle of roughly 50%, the daily amp draw total is minimal. It is my favorite camping gismo. Expensive at $700, but well made, and will last for many many years. Unlimited 33 degree beer on a 95 degree day, priceless! I would recommend at least 100 watts of solar and dual batteries however...
If Lance had a built in fridge with these nifty Danfoss(or similar) compressors, I would have gladly paid a $500 upcharge for this simplistic efficiency. As an avid back country dry camper, I hope this technology makes is to the built-ins. No more propane blow-outs, leveling issues, dinosaur board replacements, refilling propane tanks as often...
Despite the heated debates at times, quite a few members (including yours truly), use similar AC/DC compressor fridges. If you are plugged in to shore power a lot, they should be no major problem. For those of us who boondock, a couple of good batteries and some solar usually has no problem keeping up with the DC power needs. They are more efficient in the cooling department and you don't have to worry about getting your camper leveled.
I would however suggest looking at the brands & models that have been used the most for truck camper applications, such as Tundra (now Dometic) and Nova Kool.
Just looking for something that will keep a constant temperature. I am not a boon docker and usually am at a NHRA race. It seems I have to set the fridge according to outside temperature. If its 65 when I go to bed and temperature drops to 50 at night then everything is frozen in the morning. Then I turn it up in the morning before I go to the track all is thawing out at 1:00 in the afternoon when it 65 again.
I never had that problem with my 3-way fridges. I suggest something is wrong with the one you have, as that is not a general characteristic of propane fridges, in my experience.
These are sold a few miles from me for big rigs and the truckers love them. Thinking about one for my TC. I see alot of trucks at their shop getting them installed. http://www.truckfridge.com/store/page5.html
Put about 400 watts of solar on your fridge and you will have enough to power the fridge and some left over to keep the batteries charged for other things. I would recommend a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries so you have enough capacity to bridge the low light/no light periods.
We have a little electric dometic fridge/freezer combo in the basement that uses the Danfoss compressor. Works well for us but a little different situation as motorhomes have a little more room for solar on the roof and batteries in the basement.
2003 Revolution 40C Class A. 2002 Vanguard 22 foot Class C. Diesel smart car Toad or pulling a 2009 Timeout Tent Trailer.
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but rather by the moments that take our breath away.