mike brez
milford ct
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Just finished changing all belts and hoses,cap and rotor,pcv valve and a new battery.Turned the key and it fired right up. So far the only problem I see is that the mileage was reading over 2 million miles. I took the neg. wire off starting battery for a few min. And re connected. Now I just have 6 or 7 dashes. Any ideas. I'm going to take it for ride tomorrow.
1994 Pace Arrow 33L,454,P30
2oo4 ground up ridgid chopper 120rwhp
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midnightsadie
ohio
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might take a look at the brakes.
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mike brez
milford ct
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falconbrother wrote:. Also, I would look at those tires for dry rot and expiration dates. Blow-outs suck.
We're would I look for a expiration date on my tires? 
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falconbrother
North Carolina
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I think I would service the transmission and brakes. It's been my experience that in some climates moisture (condensation) can be an issue. Also, I would look at those tires for dry rot and expiration dates. Blow-outs suck. I would grab the grease gun and go over the chassis and drive shaft, suspension, etc..
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John&Joey
Some Location
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I think he's asking about his odometer, not looking for free advice on what to do prior to a short little test drive.
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Executive
California/Arizona/South Dakota
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Usually the date code is on the inside of the tire, although I've seen some that were mounted with it on the outside. It will be a three digit code, prior to year 2000 or a four digit code after 2000, in an oval box stamped on the side of the tire near the rim after the DOT....a code of 419 means it was mfg in the 41st week of 1999. After 2000 they changed it to four numbers. So, 4102 would be the 41st week of 2002, etc....did you change the oil? coolant? those are two things I would do immediately if you haven't yet....Dennis
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MartinDYN
SoCal
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mike brez wrote:Just finished changing all belts and hoses,cap and rotor,pcv valve and a new battery.Turned the key and it fired right up. So far the only problem I see is that the mileage was reading over 2 million miles. I took the neg. wire off starting battery for a few min. And re connected. Now I just have 6 or 7 dashes. Any ideas. I'm going to take it for ride tomorrow.
Is your question about the odometer?
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mike brez
milford ct
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Executive wrote:Usually the date code is on the inside of the tire, although I've seen some that were mounted with it on the outside. It will be a three digit code, prior to year 2000 or a four digit code after 2000, in an oval box stamped on the side of the tire near the rim after the DOT....a code of 419 means it was mfg in the 41st week of 1999. After 2000 they changed it to four numbers. So, 4102 would be the 41st week of 2002, etc....did you change the oil? coolant? those are two things I would do immediately if you haven't yet....Dennis
I know about the date code. But the expiration date?
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Doug and Cassi Glass
Clifton Forge, VA
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No expiration date but most consider seven years as the life of a tire. Subtract the date on the tire from the date (today is in the 14th week)and it will give you the age of the tire.
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falconbrother
North Carolina
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I have talked to tire guys about the expiration date. I never get a simple answer. Generally what they tell me is that it depends on the tire brand. If it's a cheap tire 5 years is a good number. If it's a good quality USA made or something like a Michelin then it may go as far as 7 to 10 years depending on dry rot, wear, etc.. My personal rule is at five years I will start getting critical about a close inspection of the tires. At seven, if they still look good I will keep driving on them but, at the first whiff that something isn't right... Before ten I will replace them. After the harrowing experience we had with a blowout the cost of a set of tires don't hurt my feelings at all. If it get's to where I can't afford good rubber I will sell the motorhome. It's too dangerous and the life of my wife and the dogs are at stake. Not to mention the bus load of nuns that I might run over.
Brakes and tires are non-negotiable to me. I might blow the engine up but, that's not likely to kill anybody. Running off of the road, flipping the motorhome or not being able to stop, heck no..
When I was a young police I responded to a call where a motorhome was flipped out on the interstate. Basically, it was a gasser class A, probably a late eighties model, I don't recall that exactly. It went over into a muddy median in a construction zone and flipped. It was on it's back when I got there and it was crushed. It was a man, woman and one of their's mother. The mother and the wife were hurt. The man wasn't hurt enough to be transported to the hospital. The motorhome was in small pieces except the rolling chassis. They let it lay there a couple of days till they could come out, block the interstate and pick it up with a tree removal equipment. They used a piece of equipment with a big claw on the front of it to clean up the mess, along with a dump truck and a huge wrecker to pull the chassis to the junk yard.
Anyway, I think about that when I feel the need to take any chances with the RV. They were lucky to survive. Their investment was gone and they probably ate some clean up cost.
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