BenK wrote:




Depends on your philosophies on risk management decisions (AKA gambling) vs ratings
AKA specifications or limits

There is a thread with the title 'arrogant' that is on the side of not believing
in the OEM's published ratings/specifications/etc.

If just looking for the 'sure you can', then you will get tons of them
and don't need to read further. Just note that there is only one
person responsible for the setup and that is the driver.

The details below are mainly for others who would be asking a similar
question and since you say you don't really need to ask and know enough...
This is for them and to help you make the decision(s)

Keep in mind that there is a difference between 'can' and 'should'


If you do believe in the OEM's ratings/specifications, then this diagram may help
you make the risk management decision on where you wish to be on the ratings

You will need to go out and weigh the setup axle by axle both empty and loaded
If you do not have one or the other or either, then use their max ratings as
the basis to do the simple math

Just think of the generic formula GCWR >= TV + TT + cargo/people/etc/etc
as a teeter-totter where the >= is the fulcrum


Using your info that formula looks like this

15,000 GCWR >= 5,700 TV + 10,000 TT

So you would be over the OEM's GCWR rating by about 700 lbs. The wheels
won't instantly fall off but any time approaching the limits will
have higher stresses that will wear out things sooner

Also, as the limits/ratings/etc are approached, the over all performance
is reduced. Take braking an empty TV vs braking a TV at it's GVWR
Of course the TV at GVWR will take more distance to brake and will
have more stresses than the exact same TV in the exact same ambient
conditions, but empty.

vesh1717 wrote:



lol.. I AM indeed from Thunder Bay ON, Canada. I am of Irish and Italian decent, but not british!

APT wrote:

Half ton tow ratings rarely mean RV tow ratings. RVs have about the worse aerodynamics and heavy % of tongue weight. Plan on shopping under 6000 pounds dry with under 700 pounds dry tongue weight. That will get you in the 7000/900 pound range when loaded for a trip.

vesh1717 wrote:

Where are the people saying I can tow 9k comfortably?

Taco6spd wrote:

You'll be limited by your payload, and not the tow rating (or even 80% of that), like is the case with most half ton trucks.
Until you get the real numbers, nobody can really guess. You'd need to take the truck to the scales with all people and gear inside. Bikes and misc can add up VERY quickly, and firewood is VERY heavy.

LarryJM wrote:


'
Yep and that is why I'm just not a big fan of 1/2 T's attempting to tow a trailer for say 2 adults and 2 children except for the F150HD Max GVWR. Why go around with and empty bed which is just wasted space and basically useless. For me a 3/4T is the min and for the small extra cost why not just go to a 1T and be done with it.

1/2Ts are great for local hauling like plywood, landscaping material and even tow things like boats, jet ski's and some cargo trailers.

Maybe things have changed, but back in 2002 I went to a Ford Ralley up in NY and they had 3 2003 6.0L trucks there to show off and one was towing. What they had was like a 6x6x6 concrete block on a flatbed where the two weighed the 10K or whatever wt. they were testing. No way did that represent the aerodynamic profile of a full sized TT or even 5er.

Larry