recycler
michigan
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in the pilot hole of wheel you could use light oil to slow the corrision between wheel and hub i stand by my earlier post of not using never seize it gets every where and doesn't come out of interiors 
1968 franklin 11fk
back to my 93 cummins
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bpounds
Whittier CA
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recycler wrote:in the pilot hole of wheel you could use light oil to slow the corrision between wheel and hub i stand by my earlier post of not using never seize it gets every where and doesn't come out of interiors
That is a housekeeping issue, not an engineering issue. Seems engineering always gets the blame though.
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therink
Rochester
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Thanks again for all the responses. I guess I should have created a poll. I am now out of popcorn so I will say that I ended up applying a light coat of never seize to all studs and torqued to spec. I carry a torque wrench so will be checking frequently until I am satisfied with the way they seat.
Steve
Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Keystone Sydney 340FBH 5'er
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pasusan
PA
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^^Good for you!
Trip Pics
"Don't let the sound of your own wheels drive you crazy." JB & GF
Susan & Ben ~
84 Bronco & 90 Award Classic 23 joined with a Hensley Cub
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MEXICOWANDERER
las peñas, michoacan, mexico
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And always keep in mind, whatever you may read on the internet "It is illegal to shoot ducks from a moving streetcar in Miami". Let uncommon sense rule.
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recycler
michigan
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bpounds wrote:recycler wrote:in the pilot hole of wheel you could use light oil to slow the corrision between wheel and hub i stand by my earlier post of not using never seize it gets every where and doesn't come out of interiors
That is a housekeeping issue, not an engineering issue. Seems engineering always gets the blame though.
it getting everywhere yep is housekeeping  i was taught never put anything on lugs or hubs maybe if had my alum wheels would've stopped falling off  
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martipr
Haltom City, Texas
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RJsfishin wrote:I'll always use some kind of lube on all wheel lugs, and always have,.......for 50 yrs. I don't use a torque reading. I use common sense of feel.
Dry metal to metal contact tends to "gall". When it galling, a torque reading doesn't mean anything. And when a lug won't come loose and breaks, its because it galled !
But believe whatever,....its your lugs !
There is no common sense to ignoring what all experts have been proving for many, many years. Almost always the reason studs break when removing is not galling. It is because the studs have been weakened by over torquing. My Grandfather smoked for 65 years and didn't get lung cancer so I guess that is a good reason to smoke. As you say....believe whatever,....its your lugs !
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martipr
Haltom City, Texas
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therink wrote:Thanks again for all the responses. I guess I should have created a poll. I am now out of popcorn so I will say that I ended up applying a light coat of never seize to all studs and torqued to spec. I carry a torque wrench so will be checking frequently until I am satisfied with the way they seat.
Steve
If you insist on using never seize you might as well throe the torque wrench away. The lube makes the torque readings totally inaccurate. I would also like to mention that torque values are computed assuming CLEAN dry threads. Dirty or corroded threads produce just as inaccurate results as lubed, except in the opposite direction.
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bingford
Utah
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martipr wrote:therink wrote:Thanks again for all the responses. I guess I should have created a poll. I am now out of popcorn so I will say that I ended up applying a light coat of never seize to all studs and torqued to spec. I carry a torque wrench so will be checking frequently until I am satisfied with the way they seat.
Steve
If you insist on using never seize you might as well throe the torque wrench away. The lube makes the torque readings totally inaccurate. I would also like to mention that torque values are computed assuming CLEAN dry threads. Dirty or corroded threads produce just as inaccurate results as lubed, except in the opposite direction.
There is dry torque value, wet torque value, and a K-factor assigned to fluids that is used in the formula to caclulate wet torque values. You can compensate for lubricity by lowering torque value.
Don't forget that measureing how far the bolt or stud has strecthed is the correct way to determine clamping force. For any given fastener there is an engineered tensile force that is generated as the metal strecthes.
My suggestion: Use Loctite 242 on the threads and reduce the dry torque value by 30%. The Loctite will provide a secondary locking mechanism that augemnets the metal-to-metal thread friction that is what is supposed to keep the nut and bolt together. After 10 years driving through salty roads the threads inside the nut will be like new and the nut will come off with hand tools.
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RJsfishin
Winston Or.
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Quote:
I have a bottle of NAPA anti seize (item # 765-1674) and interestingly enough, it says right on the bottle to use anti seize on lug nuts.
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Well what make you think those Napa idiots know anything ?? All the wannabe experts here are alot smarter than Napa !!
Rich
'01 31 ft Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 9245 conv, 400 watt inv, 2 12v batts, ammeters, KingDome/sat, Two Oly Cat heaters, and towing a '05 Jeep Liberty, or sometimes towing a Lowe bass boat.
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