I think I paid about $20.00 for the "isolator" at a local RV store. My mechanic installed it on the "firewall" under the hood in about 30 minutes. When my PU ignition is "off", there is no draw from my PU battery. When "on", and running down the road, the PU charging system furnishes the charge to the camper battery. Works as advertised. And of course, when camped, I run the generator when necessary, which also charges the battery.
1996 Chevy K1500 4X4 Short Box, 5.7L Vortec, E rated tires, Lance Model 820 with Cabover Struts, Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags, KYB MonoMax Shocks, Torklift Stable Loads, Happijac Truck Camper Tiedowns and Turnbuckles, Honda Eu2000i Inverter/Generator.
Yes, Ford trucks require an isolator. I found out the hard way when I left my camper plugged into my truck for over a week.
2011 Wolf Creek 850N/Polar Cub/240w Solar/2-6v Lifeline AGMs/Morningstar Sunsaver w/RM-1 & SureSine-300 Inverter 2011 Ford F-250/6.2L/3.73/Bilsteins/Air Bags/Torklift TD w/Fastguns 2004 Jeep Wrangler/4.0L/5-spd US Navy Ret.
My truck only supplies power to the camper when the engine is running (so as not to run the truck battery down). So in my case the answer is no.
Were your trucks wired like that from the factory or did you install battery isolation as an aftermarket item? If its aftermarket, what sort of device did you use and what are its advantages over other types of isolation devices?
I realize we're talking about campers here, but this is something I haven't ever considered and I'm thinking this might be a pretty darn good idea for tow trailers as well. It would be a breeze to wire an isolation device into the 12 supply for the 7-way on the back of my truck.
Thanks for this post!
I have had a 2001 Chevy 2500HD and now a 2006 Dodge RAM 3500. Neither came from the factory with switched power. I added a 12 volt relay to automatically switch the TC charge line when the truck is switched on. I learned the hard way with the Chevy while visiting Tombstone, AZ. I installed the mod immediately after returning home. I modded the Dodge prior to first use.
It will work fine with a TT as well. In fact the Tombstone incident was with a TT.
06 Dodge 3500,Dually,CTD,Auto,QC,4X4,Torklifts,Fastguns
2008 Northstar 8.5 Arrow, 100W AM Solar
US Navy 1964-1968, 2-Tour Vietnam Vet
Mike did your Ford come with the trailer tow package? If it did would include relays. Addtional relay would only be required if camper isnt wired to use factory charge (direct to alt or truck battery). Comes prewired with tow package- but relay & fuse are shipped in a bag in glove box for customer to plug in, assumption is to verify trailer wiring before plugging in relay & fuse.
typ Ford with tow package relays.
Testing at the trailer receptacle would tell you if charge line is hot with key on/off-however doesnt verify camper is wired thru factory charge line (most are though). Testing at battery, if you dont know how its wired verifys camper wont draw off truck battery(s) when key off.
fatmanobx I think you should retitle this thread...stupid would be having this question and not seeking answere IMO
You're correct about the Dodge. My new AF1150 WILL run off truck power if connnected. At first, I thought my battery disconnect switch was bad. I put it in the kill position, then tried the lights to make sure, and they came on. Left me scratching my head till I remembered it was plugged into the truck