zackyboy3rs wrote: I am taken it in for repair next week. Still under warranty but without a doubt something is not right with the work the electrician did. I will keep y'all posted in case it happens to someone else. Thanks
Yeah...I'm thinking the RV dealer will not be able to fix that damage under warranty. It's hardly the manufacturers fault that you plugged into 240v.
The average joe electrician is accustomed to wiring home appliances. The NEMA TT-30 is a specialty outlet. It's a 125v 30amp outlet. If joe electrican didn't take the time to look at the little peice of paper that comes with the outlet --- and went with his vaste array of "experience" --- he deserves the bill for your repairs.
I can only imagine what kind of damage that did... Let us know what you have to replace, Wires? Converter? Power Distributions Box/Buses?
Hopefully, we can warn others --- and let them know how much it all cost --- BEFORE it happens next time.
If you happen to look --- I'm betting the circuit breaker that he installed is double wide, instead of single wide??? That would be a clue! At this point he may have swapped it out for the correct single wide breaker.
Anyway...if no damage is done to the RV (you're lucky) Have him swap out breakers (if he hasn't already)... wrap the appropriate color tape on the wire ends... and you're back in business.
Even though running lateral circuits of 30amps or less does not usually require a permit. IF, you have damage...AND the electrician quibbles about paying for the damage... I would call your local building inspectors. It may be too late for this...if he recovered by installing the correct breaker/wiring. If you still have a double wide breaker in there...they will probably scrutinize the heck out of any further jobs he does for some time to come. He'll have to earn back his reputation as an electrical contractor. For sure --- it will be the LAST time he improperly wires a TT-30 outlet...
BTW...Trip that breaker and don't plug anything back in until you buy a Volt-Meter...and learn how to check the voltage.
On a TT-30 outlet you'll have three wires. TWO BLADE type prongs, are your L1 (HOT) and N (NEUTRAL)... If you set your meter to AC VOLTAGE with a range selected more than 240v to start...have one test prob touching each BLADE receptacle...you will be reading the voltage. IF it says anywhere near 240v STOP...do not use it. IF it says something between 110-125v...You are more than likely wired correctly. If you use the meters probes with one probe touching the truncated round opening G (GROUND) and the other probe to one of the blade openings. One blade to ground should read ZERO...the other should read 110-125v. This confirms that he wired the ground. Now, you can plug in your TT. HOWEVER--- I would still get one of those LED outlet testers. Plug it into one of the ac oulets in your campers. This is to check the polarity. If the outlet is wired properly...the lights on the tester when compared to the legend will show proper polarity. If it shows the incorrect polarity...STOP, get the outlet wired for proper polarity before you start using it again. If you don't...you might find touching certain appliance will shock you My grandad use to keep his fridge in the boat house hooked up this way. It required us to endure a slight electrocution if we where ging to steal one of his coveted RC colas from that fridge...
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zackyboy3rs wrote: I thought I was thinking correct. I had an electrician install a 30amp box and a separate breaker. I plugged in my tt and it trip and noticed a burning smell. Knocked out all my power. Fix: new power converter install.
I plugged in my dads tt and heard a pop. Little bit of smell and again no power. 3 breakers tripped in tt. Plugged into 110v with adapter and everything works. Called my electrician and tried to explain the problem and he said he had no idea what caused the problem but he would come check it out.
This is a lot more common than you know.
Many electricians look at that TT-30 outlet, which is clearly marked (Max 125 volts) and think "Oh, 240 volt dryer outlet" (Or welder or air compressor or some such) and wire it up with a double breaker 240 volt and when you plug in your 120 volt RV,, Pop goes the electronics.
Then you plug in at a friend/relative's house into what to you looks like a TT-30 but it's really one of the above list, and it is also 240 volt and pop-goes the electronics.
The moral.. DO NOT PLUG IN to any outlet (Except perhaps at an RV park) till you know for a fact it is a 120 volt outlet.
EIther from having plugged in there before
Of from use of a test device such as a volt meter.
I have seen posts from Owners who did their own wiring and made the mistake above on a TT-30.. A bit more rare than "I hired it done" but it happens.
I wired mine correctly (But then, well it's a long story)
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
How do you know that the batteries are not holding a charge? Take a look at your converter/charger. It might not be charging. Hopefully just a blown a fuse. With the 240 surge, at plug in, you may have damaged the converter, but check the fuse and try resetting. Same for the water heater. Uses 12v to ignite.
May God bless your travels
Me, The Wonderful Wife
and two Spastic Border Collies U.S. Army Retired 2004 Coachmen Aurora, 3480DS 2007 Saturn Outlook, FROG
Read MY RV ELECTRIC - 30 AMP. Be sure and click and read the "30-amp 120-volt RV Service" link in the middle of the page.
Print it out and give it to the electrician, when you give him the bill for your repairs.
I just looked at your post and noticed mine does have the double 30 am circuit and not the single as pictured in the article. My electrican has not been here and I am going to call to make sure I am here (or my dad) when he comes. Thanks for the link and info. I will print it out and show him. I will also take pictures prior to him coming as proof.
Everything in the camper seems to be working - AC, micro but battery seems to not be holding a charge and the hot water heater light did not come on when I hooked up the water and switched it on.
I hope all does work once the inverter is replaced. If I do have a bill I will take it up with the electrician.
Thanks and I will keep yall informed throughout this week.
Got a call from a buddy this past Monday. He had just built a new house and had a buddy who wired his house (not an electrician) wire a 30A plug on the side of his house for his 5er. His brand new 5er that he's only pulled from the dealer to home. He was packing getting ready to leave this weekend and he called wanting to know what was wrong. His AC, microwave, TV, and some of his lights weren't working and he kept throwing the breaker. I told him to throw a meter on his new plug. Yup, his "electrician" had wired his 30A plug like it was for a dryer. It fried his microwave, AC, TV, and inverter. Haven't heard if he lost more.
No go on warrantee or insurance. Not the manufacturer's fault and the 'electrician' wasn't a real electrician. Get out the checkbook.
If you look carefully at the back of the receptacle...they will either have color coded screws and/or words molded into the base.
You can see in this picture the word GREEN at the top connector, and WHITE at the lower left connector.
The proper wiring would have been:
A Bare Copper or Green wire to the connector labeled GREEN, GROUND, GND, G, or with a Green colored screw.
A White Wire (or a black wire that has white electrical tape wrapped around the insulation at the end to designate it as a NEUTRAL)...and connected to the terminal that is labeled WHITE, NEUTRAL, W, or has a Silver Colored Screw.
A BLACK Wire that is connected to the terminal with a LETTER (L1, X), B, LINE, HOT...also can be designated by a BRASS colored screw.
IF done properly...the wires in your RV should all be correct too. Black wires HOT, White wires NEUTRAL, etc...
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My grandad use to keep his fridge in the boat house hooked up this way. It required us to endure a slight electrocution if we where ging to steal one of his coveted RC colas from that fridge...
