David0725
Florida
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I had a problem some what like your. but I wasn't turn signals! although it only happend when I turned. that would make one think it was the turn signal. It ended up been the a wire on the ignition switch! so everytime I turned it must have pulled the wire some how and shut me down!! I replaced the switch and prolem solved.
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wny_pat
Western NYS
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mdock2 wrote:If the OP's system is like mine and reacts the same, then yes he loses his power brakes and steering. Mine resets after about 90 seconds. Thus, he is losing all power including lights, etc.
And yes, hope he does post updates. Conditions like this should be reported to The Office of Defects Investigation (ODI), an office within the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm). There are suppose to be safety interlocks to prevent this from happening. It should be investigated to see what is causing this to happen so that others do not have to go through what you are going thru. If you are dealing with a mechanic, he should do the write up and submit it to them. If he doesn't, you should submit the form to initiate the investigation.
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mdock2
Florida
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wny_pat wrote:mdock2 wrote:If the OP's system is like mine and reacts the same, then yes he loses his power brakes and steering. Mine resets after about 90 seconds. Thus, he is losing all power including lights, etc.
And yes, hope he does post updates. Conditions like this should be reported to The Office of Defects Investigation (ODI), an office within the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm). There are suppose to be safety interlocks to prevent this from happening. It should be investigated to see what is causing this to happen so that others do not have to go through what you are going thru. If you are dealing with a mechanic, he should do the write up and submit it to them. If he doesn't, you should submit the form to initiate the investigation.
Have ran into 2 other owners with the same issues, and all of us are finding the same. Shops unable to locate cause, or unable to re-create issue and with a temp power outage, the cost to find the cause would be more than what the unit cost. What we do know is all 3 units are older (pre 2000) model Newmar Dutchstar F/L's with Cat engines.
But I did see in these post that someone else did agree that it may have something to do with the switch. Thus I work and trace down the problem 1 wire at a time.
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wny_pat
Western NYS
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I had a problem with my ignition solenoid under the dash. It would quit passing electric while I was going down the road, when I hit a bump, and I would loose turn signals and dash power, but not brakes. Can't remember if it affected the dash instrument readings. It was a Cole Hersee 24143, 4 pole, 200 amp, continuous duty solenoid. It supplied all the dash power along with all the up front coach 12 volt power. I think it had something to do with the boost battery switch also.
The engine temp switch makes sense too.
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mdock2
Florida
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mdock2 wrote:wny_pat wrote:mdock2 wrote:If the OP's system is like mine and reacts the same, then yes he loses his power brakes and steering. Mine resets after about 90 seconds. Thus, he is losing all power including lights, etc.
And yes, hope he does post updates. Conditions like this should be reported to The Office of Defects Investigation (ODI), an office within the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm). There are suppose to be safety interlocks to prevent this from happening. It should be investigated to see what is causing this to happen so that others do not have to go through what you are going thru. If you are dealing with a mechanic, he should do the write up and submit it to them. If he doesn't, you should submit the form to initiate the investigation.
Just filed a report, thanks for the site info...
Have ran into 2 other owners with the same issues, and all of us are finding the same. Shops unable to locate cause, or unable to re-create issue and with a temp power outage, the cost to find the cause would be more than what the unit cost. What we do know is all 3 units are older (pre 2000) model Newmar Dutchstar F/L's with Cat engines.
But I did see in these post that someone else did agree that it may have something to do with the switch. Thus I work and trace down the problem 1 wire at a time.
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Brian in Michigan
S.E. Mi.
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I had this happen a couple of years ago on my old beast. It was the ignition switch. I turned on my turn signal and the engine died. I went to start it back up while running and KABOOM. I barely touched the key and the engine fired back up with all of the unburned gas in the exhaust system. I kind of knew it was going bad because it ran warm.
1990 GEORGIE BOY 28' 454 4BBL, TURBO 400 TRANS, Thorley Headers B&M trans cooler. Auto meter hooked to output of trans. Flowmaster mufflers recurved distributor Still Keepin on Truckin((((Was 7.5mpg Now 8.75mpg ))))
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rvrepairnut
bc
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Brian in Michigan wrote:I had this happen a couple of years ago on my old beast. It was the ignition switch. I turned on my turn signal and the engine died. I went to start it back up while running and KABOOM. I barely touched the key and the engine fired back up with all of the unburned gas in the exhaust system. I kind of knew it was going bad because it ran warm.
gas verses diesel etc two entirely different situations and a bad Ignition switch will have "NO" effect on temperature
* This post was
edited 04/08/12 07:29pm by rvrepairnut *
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YC 1
Yuba City Calif.
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Looking at the op's previous posts and ones that concur with the symptoms it really appears that you are losing voltage and probably not a ground. There are enough grounds associated that having all the issues at the same time are less likely.
In the mean time as a safety measure I would find the fuse block the turn signals are supplied by. See what power it supplies such as antilock breaking, traction control and provide that information. If you find a lot of those items associated with the same fuse block I would be cleaning and tightening everything in site and then do my best to follow the power for that back to the source. In the Monaco/Holiday rambler line there are a couple of large "splices" over the rear axel that have caused some very strange problems.
If you find some sort of circuit breaker near the batteries or a solenoid I would replace those.
Even after doing that I would run my own power wire through a self resetting breaker all the way to the fuse panel. A wire about the size of a pencil would do the trick and a 25-30 amp breaker would be fine. Bypass any solenoids or switches.
If the power that goes to that fuse box is normally controlled by a solenoid, I would bypass it anyway and add your own heavy duty inline fuse at the fuse panel so you can disconnect it by removing the fuse. As previously mentioned I would change any solenoids out and then take them apart carefully and take pictures and post them here or send them to me privately if that is easier.
How will you ever know you solved the issue if it never crops up again? Once you are confident and feel safe again pull the fuse and find a safe place to shake it down.
Keep in mind you do have air brakes and if you have to you can smash the button down for some emergency braking.
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2ndhom
Eugene, Oregon
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What happen to the OP .... is he taking any of this good info in???
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RayChez
Barstow, Ca. USA
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2ndhom wrote:What happen to the OP .... is he taking any of this good info in???
LOL! I think when he saw all the possibilities he just threw his hands up in the air and said. Lets take it to the shop and they can figure it out.
I also had a bad ignition switch and every time I would get on a rough road it would turn the engine off. But I figured it out right away and found that the back side of the ignition switch was starting to pull out. Pushed it back in and secured it and has never given that problem again.
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