Well had the plugs changed just before I put the truck in storage, cleaned the MAF a few days ago, put the battery in the truck and a clean air filter, and fired it up. Now worries there.
Took it for a spin today for the first time, to pick up a gate at a hardware store.
Seems to be running well but now the lie o meter is telling me my mileage has improved but 3-4 liters per 100km.
Whoa what a nice surprise.....
Amazing what an effect a dirty MAF and plugs worn down to the nubs have on gas mileage.
The V10 is still thirsty but if this is true it could save a fair amount. Well see what the hand calculated numbers are after a few tanks.
Spree 318bhs. Blue Ox Sway Pro WD hitch.
Primary tow vehicle 2008 F350 V10 Crew cab.
Back-up tow vehicle 2005 4Runner V8 Limited.
If you had the battery out for more than 15 minutes, your truck needs to relearn everything. It usually takes a couple hundred miles for this to happen.
Donn,Lorri,Max (The Rescued Lab)
Resident Know It All
For some reason there is a fine white powder in the air plenum after the filter. I had a Wix filter for the last year and there seemed to be a bit of an air leak possibly.
Just got a ford filter along with a ford oil filter.
Leather power seats will be hooked up on monday and then I can install the rear seats.
This truck will be minty when it's done.
I hear so many people bashing Ford due to their diesels but almost everyone forgets about the V10, solid dependable, and a good amount of power for just about everything you need. Plus I can replace my entire motor for less than the cost of a fuel system repair on one of the new diesels.
Picture is of Delco Platinums out of my 1996 Sub's 7.4L after about 50K miles. Notice the wear on the ground electrodes. The previous set took out at around 80K miles and most of the ground electrode hockey pucks were gone. Couldn't have been any good for the cylinder walls nor the rings.
These extended life plugs came into common use because of the extended warranties and the wacky packing of engines. Some engines has to have their mounts taken off and the engine tilled to one side to get at the plugs.
The new V10's has the back two plugs behind the fire wall and barriered by the frame rails. I've wondered how in the heck a mechanic gets them out.
The "other" components folks are talking about that get fried in extended usage costs hundreds to over $1K bucks to replace.
I'm noodling going back to plain jane plugs and modifying them myself. Here's a picture of one I've modified for my 1980 Silverado's 350 "built" engine (cam, stainless valves, etc).
The ground electrode has been cut back to have it's edge centered over the center electrode. This gives the air/fuel mixture direct exposure to the spark and also takes less voltage to fire (corona effect...what Split Fires use, but their method has the ground electrode flattened and too thin, so gets too hot).
The exotic metals do last longer, but to me, why bother with the added expense and risk of high dollar failures of associtated componets when I can change them as often as needed myself.
PS....use lots of metal filled anti-sieze on the plug threads. No matter what brand, model, etc. This increases the thermal path performance and keeping the plugs in their temp sweet spot helps in all aspects (MPG, performance, longevity, etc).
This was what my 1980 C10 Silverado's 'built' engine gets
Better image of what platinum's look like at around 50K miles. Would
NOT want them in there much longer
Platinum's modified for Dad's Caddy...didn't make that big a difference
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Benk, interesting mod on the spark plugs. I know that plug life is dependent on engine hours and load as well as miles driven.The newer plugs last much longer than the plugs of years ago. the platinum spark plug was a big leap forward as well as the newer iridium plugs out now. I took the plugs out of my Nissan car at over 100,000 miles and they were due to be changed but not terrible at all. Tow vehicles and towing change the equation a bit. The higher the load the hotter the spark and that takes its toll on longevity of the spark plug. We have fleet CNG powered vehicles that go thru plugs much faster than normal gas engines due to it being CNG powered as opposed to gasoline.
Shogun you need to put more miles on after the battery disconnect to get a true reading on mpg. As another post mentioned after the battery disconnect zero's out the count and you start again.
Offline
