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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Homemade Tie downs.

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Halltrail

maryland

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Posted: 04/07/12 07:36pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had to quickly make some tie downs today. Tomorrow is out with it being Easter and Im picking up the camper on Monday. Here are the pix:


I was originally just going to weld the channel to the frame...but decided not to and just use bolts. Also, I didnt use the notched back channel on the other side...decided it wasnt needed.


Welded 2.5"x 2.5" square stock to 4"x12" channel:


Honestly, Im not really sure what I was thinking here...but I took a 13" long piece of channel and notched to fit over the frame and under one one of the bed rails and put it on the backside of the frame.



Adding in and measuring the extensions 2.5"x2.5" x 3/16 is 12" long and the extension 2"x2"x3/16" is 15" long:



Drilling the holes in the c channel:


Marked and drilled the holes through the frame and the channel that I notched for the back side. Bolted every thing together using grade 8 5"x1/2" bolts. Next I welded some 3/8" flat to some angle that rests on under one of the bed rails and welded the other end to the 2.5"x2.5" square.





Drilled the holes in the 2x square and tested the pin:



Weleded some 3/8" flat on the end of the 2x and drilled holes with a 5/8" drill bit





Then repeated for the other side. Still gotta work on the rear points.

* This post was edited 04/07/12 07:47pm by Halltrail *


1994 F350 crew cab, Dually, turbo idi 7.3l, auto, Hypermax cowl, 3" downpipe and exhaust, 4.10 gears, airbags, rancho xl9000 shocks, E rated 235/85 r16 tires.

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ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 04/07/12 07:56pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice work ~ better than anything you can buy!


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cm

Dillon, CO USA

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Posted: 04/07/12 09:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice fabrication job.

The chain clip/fastener (I am not sure of the exact name) raises a question. Do you know what the weight rating is on these clips? I have seen them rated as low as 500 lbs and as high as 5,000 lbs. Unfortunately many do not have the rating marked on them.

tri5ron

Orange County Ca. USA

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Posted: 04/07/12 11:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I always enjoy seeing skilled DIY fab work. Nice welds too.

Photog101

Garden City, Michigan

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Posted: 04/08/12 12:53am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Very NIce.............


Combat Vietnam Veteran Support our troops for serving our great country.
1997 Veri Lite RL1200 on a '02, K3500, CC, DRW, 8.1L, Allison, 4.1 gears, Bridgestone 225/70R19.5 tires.


SoCalDesertRider

Arizona desert

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Posted: 04/08/12 01:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice job on the tie downs and looks like you have a nice shop set up to work in as well. Also, very accurate notching of the channel on the back side of the frame rail.

I'm curious about 2 things.

2-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 1/4 seamless square receiver tube is readily available, but I noticed you use 3/16 seamed tube for the receiver instead. Do you have a lot slop in the joint? I'm assuming you did not grind out the inside seam?

I'm also wondering about the orientation of the outer c-channel, with the legs pointing toward the flat side of the frame. Did you experience the channel legs wanting to spread and curve the web of the channel when the bolts are tightened? I'm assuming the channel is C4x5.4?

Usually when I bolt a channel to a flat surface, I turn the legs out, so the flat surface of the channel rests against the flat surface of the other member, with no space in between. This ensures no deformation of the channel when the bolts are torqued and that the bolts don't work their way loose.

I'm sure your tie downs will work just fine. I just saw those 2 details and questioned, why.


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ticki2

NH

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Posted: 04/08/12 06:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well , those certainly won't be the weak point in the system . Nice job.


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SoCalDesertRider

Arizona desert

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Posted: 04/08/12 01:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Maybe it's the camera angle the picture was taken from causing an optical illusion. In this pic, I notice your dual rear tires appear to be unusually close together.

What size are the tires and how much spacing do you have between them?



Halltrail

maryland

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Posted: 04/08/12 05:29am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Guys! The clasps are rated at 1,700'lbs a clasp...something close to that..maybe it as 1,400...Ill have to go back out and read them again.

SCDR...I just had everything on hand...If I had time I would have gone out and grabbed some 1/4" seamless and yes, they do have some slop in them. It's not too bad though. On the channel, I was originally just going to weld them on in that orientation. But then decided I didn't want to weld to the frame. I thought about putting the flat on the frame...but then I would have had to pull out the stick welder to weld the square in there...It would have been to tight to fit the mig in there. So I guess, it comes down to be lazy or in a hurry :-)

I didn't notice any movement of the channel legs when I bolted them down. Ill keep an eye on that. That is a good point that I didnt think about I guess I could always go back and put a few welds on there. I weld on jeep frames all the time...but never on a vehicle that has to carry weight like an f350??

The tires do look close in the picture...good eye..They are close but not that close. Ill take another picture to see what you guys think. Im looking out for some cab/chassis wheels now though. Tires are 235/85 r16. I have a 1/4" spacer in there now.

Thanks again for all the feedback.

SoCalDesertRider

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Posted: 04/08/12 06:21am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In your cab/chassis wheel search, get them from a 4wd F350. The 2wd F350 cab/chassis used the same stock 215 tires and 5.00" offset wheels as the pickups. The 4wd cab/chassis used stock 235 tires and 5.35" offset wheels. The next larger size truck, the F-Superduty (450) also used the same stock 235 tires as the 4wd F350 cab/chassis, but the wheels are 10-lug, so not useful on your F350.

You can weld on the frame, just try to avoid too much welding across the web of the frame channel (vertical direction). Short horizontal welds along the top or bottom corners of the frame channel or along the length of the surface of the web are fine (horizontal direction). Also try to avoid welding across the surface of the top or bottom flanges of the channel. Short welds lengthwise along the flanges are okay. Be sure not to leave any crater at the end of the weld, or any undercut along the toes, where a crack can propagate from.

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