Halltrail

maryland

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Scdr, that is what I was worried about. I really need to do some vertical welds. How about 2 or 3 one inch welds on each side of the channel? Just enough to keep channel from spreading
1994 F350 crew cab, Dually, turbo idi 7.3l, auto, Hypermax cowl, 3" downpipe and exhaust, 4.10 gears, airbags, rancho xl9000 shocks, E rated 235/85 r16 tires.
1999 Lance 810 extended cab, A/C and winter package.
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SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

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Halltrail wrote: Scdr, that is what I was worried about. I really need to do some vertical welds. How about 2 or 3 one inch welds on each side of the channel? Just enough to keep channel from spreading If all you want to do is keep the channel legs from spreading from compression of the web by the bolts, a 1/2-inch long 1/4" fillet weld opposite each row of bolts should be more than enough to accomplish that, I would think. Don't leave any craters or undercuts and all will be just fine.
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Halltrail

maryland

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Ok, that is what I will do. Ill have to remember to hold that mig for an extra second at the end of the weld. Thanks a million.
So, I take you are a welder/fabricator? Or are you self taught and just like melting metal together? :-) I'm the latter. I do have a small side business making skid plates and rocker guards for off road jeeps. I also do a lot of re gearing of axles. That is why I have the shop. I got started because I was breaking to much stuff on my jeep when wheeling and needed to start fixing it my self.
Thanks again for all the help...this site has been a tremendous help. Many more questions to come.
Here is a pic of one of my favorite places to wheel (and break stuff)
* This post was
edited 04/08/12 08:53am by Halltrail *
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sabconsulting

High Wycombe, UK

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Very nice job I love this sort of stuff (as many of you will probably know).
Halltrail wrote: ...So, I take you are a welder/fabricator?
Yes, SoCalDesertRider is a professional welder and has a wealth of useful knowledge - I know I, he gave me some great advice when I was struggling with a problem with my TIG machine in preparation for welding my aluminum roof together.
Steve.
'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
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'09 Fiat Panda 1.2
'10 Citroen DS3 1.6 turbo
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SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

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That's a great pic of your Jeep rock crawling. I can see where you'd need some good skid plates on that one!
I admire anyone who has the patience and talent to do axle gearing setup for a living. I can remove and replace most parts on a truck but I let the pro's do my gear work.
Yes I weld for a living, mostly structural on buildings but I weld just about anything that comes my way and do some minor fabrication in the garage-shop as well. We have a couple of others in the welding profession here on the forum too. CrazyFritz and PressureWelder are 2 who post here from time to time. Good guys.
Thanks for the props, Steve. Did you get your camper project all finished up?
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ace44

Palmer, Alaska

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Job well done.
2011 Ford F-350 DRW
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AnEv942

CA

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Just curious-know your working against the picking up camper clock But to avoid welding legs to the frame wouldnt a simple piece of flat bar inside leg to leg between the bolts accomplish the same thing? Also act as stop against compression when tightening the bolts. Though require removing again, SoCalDesertRider? course think Id also box bottom at reciever just cuz?
Mark
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sabconsulting

High Wycombe, UK

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SoCalDesertRider wrote: ...Thanks for the props, Steve. Did you get your camper project all finished up?
Oh yes - just spent the last two weekends using it with the new roof and solar (I'll add another trip report tomorrow) - here is the roof now:

My home-made tie-downs are no-where near as good as Halltrail's - but they work so well - I went for about a year using only ratchet straps holding the camper (badly) to the tie-down rails around the edge of the load bed - wasn't a very good solution, but got me through.
I like the idea of the receiver hitch style tie-down so you can remove it easily (I can appreciate that after having to lie on my back this afternoon to unbolt my tiedowns so they aren't sticking out when driving the truck around without the camper on).
Steve.
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SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

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AnEv942 wrote: Just curious-know your working against the picking up camper clock But to avoid welding legs to the frame wouldnt a simple piece of flat bar inside leg to leg between the bolts accomplish the same thing? Also act as stop against compression when tightening the bolts. Though require removing again, SoCalDesertRider? course think Id also box bottom at reciever just cuz?
Mark Yes, a flat bar spanning the 2 legs on the back side of the mount near each bolt location would keep the legs from spreading. That is a very good idea too. Always more than one way to skin a cat!
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SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

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sabconsulting wrote: SoCalDesertRider wrote: ...Thanks for the props, Steve. Did you get your camper project all finished up?
Oh yes - just spent the last two weekends using it with the new roof and solar (I'll add another trip report tomorrow) - here is the roof now:
My home-made tie-downs are no-where near as good as Halltrail's - but they work so well - I went for about a year using only ratchet straps holding the camper (badly) to the tie-down rails around the edge of the load bed - wasn't a very good solution, but got me through.
I like the idea of the receiver hitch style tie-down so you can remove it easily (I can appreciate that after having to lie on my back this afternoon to unbolt my tiedowns so they aren't sticking out when driving the truck around without the camper on).
Steve. Your roof job looks great Steve, very professional!
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