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 > 12 volt fuse box

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RoyB

King George, VA

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Posted: 04/08/12 07:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jim - This is what i was going to suggest for you to install in the bench seat area. This will give you six fused circuits using the ATC type fuses to run to at least six 12VDC circuits... I use this same fuse panel in my Radio Circuits.. They have a nice cover and wont let other things you might have stored in the bench to short out anything. You will also use the split wire loom to hold all of the wiring that is coming into and leaving this area so all of your wiring will be protected and out of harms way as well...



BLUE SEA FUSE BLOCK 6-CIRCUIT




My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me
Roy and Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
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POPUP PHOTOs-Pg52


jbrowning

Colorado Springs Co.

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Posted: 04/08/12 09:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello Roy, so I would need fuses for the following I think.

Electric Brakes
Left Turn Signal
Right Turn Signal
Clearance Lights/Parking Lights
Interior and Exterior Lights
Brake Lights
Power from the battery
and a ground

I think that is all that runs through those wires if I remember correctly.

I know the Electric Brakes run on a higher voltage than the other items I can't remember what gauge wire they are on.

Thank you
Jim


2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 Ltr Extended Cab 4x4
1971 21ft Terry Travel Trailer

jbrowning

Colorado Springs Co.

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Posted: 04/09/12 12:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

beemerphile1 wrote:

jbrowning wrote:


...the porch light wired into the red wire comung into the trailer and the porch light works. Then when I disconnect the porch light and connect the other 12 volt light to the red wire, still nothing...


If I'm reading the two lines above correctly, your "other 12 volt light" isn't grounded.


Sorry that was me being in a hurry. That should read "other 12 volt lights".

Sorry
Jim

beemerphile1

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Posted: 04/09/12 05:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jbrowning wrote:


...the porch light wired into the red wire comung into the trailer and the porch light works. Then when I disconnect the porch light and connect the other 12 volt light to the red wire, still nothing...


If I'm reading the two lines above correctly, your "other 12 volt light" isn't grounded.


"Liberty lies in the hearts of men and women; when it dies there, no constitution, no law, no court can even do much to help it..."
Judge Learned Hand


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CavemanCharlie

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Posted: 04/09/12 06:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The wires are marked with writing on them. Is it possible to read what it says with a flashlight and a magnifying glass??

RoyB

King George, VA

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Posted: 04/09/12 07:06am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tim... I would worry about fusing the trailer lights and electric brakes wiring coming from the 7-pin trailer connector. All of these will be handled by the truck connection. All of mine are fused from the truck side. Maybe some of the older trucks didnt fuse them ??? I think I have read from one of your post that the previous owner has bypassed the electric brakes and only used a 4-pin trailer connector. The DOT law reads if your trailer is equiped with electric brakes then they must be operational and used.

What you need fused is your ceiling lights and other DC appliances that are installed inside your trailer. These are separate wiring from the trailer hookup wiring. The newer trailers have what is called a Power Distribution Center chassis where all of your 120VAC Circuit Breakers and 12VDC Fused circuits are terminated. Since you trailer apparently doesn not have one of these power distribution center boxes you need to come up with a couple of separate power boxes. You already have a 120VAC box I have seen in a previous post. Now you need to add a 12VDC Fuse distribution box for your trailer interior 12VDC appliances. This will mostly be just your interior 12VDC lights but is also several other items like the Propane sensor, water pump, external scare light, AM/FM Radio setup, fride 12vdc board, furnace fan, to name a few.

All trailers have most of the appliances that you need to survive with being operated from 12VDC (your battery) for when you are not camping at electric hookup sites. Each of these circuits are normally fused at the Power Distribution Box which you dont have. My Power Distribution Box has eleven 12VDC fused circuits on my POPUP. When you look around your room and start counting up all of the 12VDC appliances it is amazing that there is not already a Power distribution center installed somewhere in your trailer. I guess they are all hard wired to your battery using those twist-on connections you showed a picture of and apparently none of these circuits are fused. It is amazing haha... This is what your new 12VDC fused sub-panel will be used for.

All of your 120VAC Appliances should have circuit breakers and will only operate when you are connected up to a electric site using the shore power cable connection. Your 120VAC power box photo only showed one circuit breaker I think so this must be the only protection provided for those items.

What I would do is purchase a Power Distribution Center like the WF8900 series Power distribution Center and use a PD4600 or PD9200 series COnverter/Charger unit for a two battery installation. The WF8900 series Power distribution ceneter has all the slots for five full size 120VAC circuit breakers and eleven 12VDC ATC fuse plug positions and then totally rewire your whole trailer using new romex cable for the 120VAC items and good quality 2-conductor marine grade wiring for all of the interior 12VDC circuits. I did exactly this in my OFF-RoAD 14RT POPUP where came with a ELIXIR combination Power Dist Center and 30AMP Converter/Charger. This unit only had One 120VAC main circuit breaker and three 12VDC fused circuits. behind the unit was a "rats nest" of wiring all bound up together using the those twist-on wire-nuts and I had all kinds of intermittent operations of things when pulling my off-road trailer over the rocks and rough roads camping off the power grids. I enclosed all of the wiring in PVC flex conduit and feed all the DC wireing going thru the trailer floor using PVC electrical box and in the end all wiring is enclosed in PVC tubing. The interior 120VAC wiring was ok to leave alone and I mabe had to run one or two new drops using romex to lengthen the wiring to fit my new power distribution center. It was fun but I certainly dont have to worry abut any of the 120VAC and 12VDc wiring now with my off-road POPUP. Re-doing all of this also allowed me to add more 12DVC circuits for my Ham radio wiring as well.

I would be happy to continue all of this off line via email if you like. This can be a drawn out project and take some time to figure out what all you may want to do here... I like to spend other folks money on projects like this... Do it right or dont do it all... You can find all you need to make it right from your local Lowes store. You wouldnt be having all these problem if the previous owner had done just alittle of it right.

You know how that goes haha... "heck I can just snip this wire out run a new wire from here to there and I can use some bailing wire to hold it up and then cover it good with duct tape. If it squeaks I will spray some WD40 on it" Then the next owner comes along and now you got deal with all of this red-neck engineered "rats nest"...

beemerphile1

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Posted: 04/09/12 12:56pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jbrowning wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:

jbrowning wrote:


...the porch light wired into the red wire comung into the trailer and the porch light works. Then when I disconnect the porch light and connect the other 12 volt light to the red wire, still nothing...


If I'm reading the two lines above correctly, your "other 12 volt light" isn't grounded.


Sorry that was me being in a hurry. That should read "other 12 volt lights".


Okay then your "other 12 volt lights" aren't grounded.

jbrowning

Colorado Springs Co.

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Posted: 04/09/12 12:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello Roy, ok so the only thing that will be going through the new 12 volt fuse box are things that run off of 12 volt. And that would be the 3 in side lights (that don't work which is what I'm trying to fix) and then the outside porch light (which does work). The fridge isn't wired for 12 volt, it only runs on 110 and propane. The furnace hose no fan in in, I think they are called light gravity fed. There is no hot water heater. And there is no pump for the fresh water. All the outlets in the trailer run off of the 110.

So really there will only be the 12 volt lights that run through the fuse box.

Am I right in my thinking now Roy?

And I don't remember if I said this when I started this thresd. But this all started Saturday morning. When I got the trailer to the house I always go inside and flip on the 12 volt lights to see if they are working (don't ask me why I do this....I just do it out of habit). At that time all 3 lights inside and the 1 outside came on like they should. Then after I had the propane line checked at the propane tanks. I went back inside and they all the lights came on and about a minute later they all went off. The outside light was still on. Like I said. I don't know if I had posted that or not. But that is why I'm thinking it is a fuse somewhere.

Thank you
Jim

U.P. BLDR

Upper Peninsula of Michigan

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Posted: 04/09/12 02:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jbrowning wrote:

Here are the pictures I have taken this morning and still have not found any fuses.





These last few show where the wires come into my trailer then attach to the wires in the trailer. The three light fixtures are the ones that run off of 12 volt.


Do you know which wires are which? First thing I would do is ring out the wiring, that is find out which wire goes to which fixture. Many ways to do this, but in a small camper like this it would be easy to make a lead that you could attach to the + terminal in the fixture, then run it down to your rats nest of wires. Use ohms on your multi meter with one end connected to your lead from the light, and the other end to test the various + wires below. Your meter will show continuity when you find the right wire for that fixture.

You can test the grounds in a similar manner. Connect one lead from your ohm meter to the negative terminal on the fixture, then test to ground, or test to the ground wire at the mass of wires. Should be continuity, if not bad ground, which like others is what I expect is wrong since all three went out at once. Unless they are all running of the same + supply wire and are daisy chained.

You will gain valuable experience trouble shooting like this. It's not hard once you understand what you're looking for. I may not be the best at explaining though.

Btw that fuse box that was linked is nice. There are cheaper ways though if you want to fuse the lights and save some bux. You can buy inline fuse holders for a buck something at just about any big box or automotive parts stores. Stick one inline in each circuit and call it a day. Hope this helps.


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jbrowning

Colorado Springs Co.

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Posted: 04/09/12 12:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CavemanCharlie wrote:

The wires are marked with writing on them. Is it possible to read what it says with a flashlight and a magnifying glass??


Hi Charlie, what is written on the masking tape is stuff like Turn Signal Right, Turn Signal Left, Brake Lights and so forth and so on.

Thanks
Jim

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