My wife and I looked at almost 200 travel trailers before we bought our old 95 Layton.
We "Knew" that we wanted a bunk house model.
Then folks here on RV.net gave me advice that I am about to get you.
Take your kids "looking" with you and your DW and try to hang out in the TT's for 15-30 minutes just with you and your family.
What you will find is that floor plans that look awesome on paper will not work in reality with YOUR family.
We started looking and "Knew" we needed a bunk house model.
We ended up with a 32 ft, no slide (budget), TT with NO bunks. We have a Dinette and a couch that both turn into beds, plus we have an island queen bed in the back that me and the DW have.
The kiddos are in the front and middle of the trailer and have that area to themselves at night. They watch TV, play games, it is their "Bunk house"
We have a mid bath model so we don't have to walk over each other to use the facilities. It has worked very well for us and we look forward to many many more nights camping.
As far as the bed situation, it takes us less than 5 minutes to go from sleep mode to day mode, including rolling up the boys sleeping bags and putting up the beds.
Anyway, not trying to convince you that you don't need bunks, just that you may find that some floor plans work in reality better than on paper.
You just have to find what works for your family.
Oh, and try to keep the tongue weight around 800-1000 lbs. Front slide trailers will have a much heavier tongue weight and may overload your Suburban. Try to find a trailer that is well balanced.
Also tongue weight, figure it by figuring 15% of the GVWR of the trailer, that way you can make sure that you are under your trucks capacity.
You are going to be a half ton tower like a lot of us. All you have to do is be more mindful of your payload capacity (TT Tongue Weight + weight of passengers and cargo in the Suburban).
I do this by loading the TT, even the boys bicycles go in the TT. The only thing in my truck bed are my leveling boards, wheel chocks, and the tote-n-store.
Good luck and have a great time shopping!
Thanks!
Jeremiah
You make some really good points. Im actually starting to steer away from the bunkhouse models, although I won't rule them out yet. I really like the keystone outback models, but I fear they are too big for my TV. I just found a great deal on a 2008 Keystone Cougar 294RLS
but I'm pretty certain my TV won't cut it.
Here are some pictures showing the towing capacity of my TV
* This post was
edited 04/12/12 01:32pm by chaddd *
stitchinsue wrote: We have a suburban and love it. Have you considered a Hybrid camper? Whatever you get, do take the whole family. Have your wife at the sink, and have everyone pass her. Can you all get through without having to scooch out of the way? Have fun shopping!
Hi, thanks for chiming in.
Are the hybrids the ones with the tent pop outs?
If so we haven't considered those.
I definitely plan on taking my family when choosing my TT.
Hello Sir
Look at cruiser Rv. Our 28BHSS Wieghs 5565 dry 7660 all aluminum frame. Took out this past wknd was very easy to tow. They make ultra lites. Worth a shot.Hitch wieght is 660.now that is a 28 foot trailer overall 32ft. Joe
* This post was
edited 04/12/12 02:19pm by jassms98 *
2011 F150 4x4 6.2 Platinum
2012 ViewFinder 28BHSS
Equal i zer WDH
I don't see a payload on there just a max gvwr. If you can't find a payload, go weigh the truck w/ a full tank of gas. Subtract that number from gvwr and that will be your available payload. Don't give up on bunks just yet. You can make it happen. Probably not a super slide 30 ft+ TT but a smaller bunk can probably ne found for you. Check out kodiak. They make 2 rear slides that are lighter in weight. Here is the 220bhks. It is pretty light weight w/ a gvwr less than 6000 lbs and a length of less than 25'. It would probably be a good match for you (if your payload is ok). There are other light weight TTs out there. You just have to look and hopefully you van find ot used and in your budget. By the way if you cam finance, TTs can ne financed over 10 yrs making payments more affordable.
jassms98 wrote: Hello Sir
Look at cruiser Rv. Our 28BHSS Wieghs 5565 dry 7660 all aluminum frame. Took out this past wknd was very easy to tow. They make ultra lites. Worth a shot.Hitch wieght is 660.now that is a 28 foot trailer overall 32ft. Joe
Thanks for the suggestion. I was looking at trailers that were too heavy.
anaro wrote: I don't see a payload on there just a max gvwr. If you can't find a payload, go weigh the truck w/ a full tank of gas. Subtract that number from gvwr and that will be your available payload. Don't give up on bunks just yet. You can make it happen. Probably not a super slide 30 ft+ TT but a smaller bunk can probably ne found for you. Check out kodiak. They make 2 rear slides that are lighter in weight. Here is the 220bhks. It is pretty light weight w/ a gvwr less than 6000 lbs and a length of less than 25'. It would probably be a good match for you (if your payload is ok). There are other light weight TTs out there. You just have to look and hopefully you van find ot used and in your budget. By the way if you cam finance, TTs can ne financed over 10 yrs making payments more affordable.
I really want the master bedroom right next to the bathroom. I was pretty set on not financing. I do like the keystone trailers. The outbacks are nice.
We had a hybrid before the current trailer. We had a Jayco 21c It was perfect at the time and really fit our needs well. It has 2 queen beds at either end, queen u-shaped dinette, two person table that can be used as a bed (single) shower/bath/toilet all by the rear bed. The only modern convince it was missing was an oven. We prefer to cook when able in the dutch oven anyway so it never was an issue for us. I like to carry my own firewood and this hybrid w/ my old ½ ton truck I never had to worry about load, unless I got crazy. The down sides are it can take a few more minutes to setup/breakdown, condensation can occur inside, able to hear campground noise (though if kids are n tents—easier to keep tabs on them). But the upsides obviously weight is big but once the beds are open you have the entire floor area open. So maybe a larger hybrid vs TT…Just keep asking and you’ll find the perfect trailer for your needs and specs. We looked over a year for our current tt but we have specific criteria of bunks and used with a front separate bedroom and slides… As your doing first and foremost know your max tow-able trailer weight, that will narrow the field of contenders.
04' Chevy Silverado 2500HD 496 cu in - Allison
'06 Keystone Cougar 304BH
1 Honda eu2000i generator
Drawtight Activator
Huskey Weight Distribution System
1 Spazzed Weimaraner
chaddd wrote: The weight issue is really scaring me. I will post some pictures of my trucks towing ability.---
I think you will find that for your TV, the maximum allowable trailer weight will be determined by the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).
The GCWR is the maximum allowable value for the sum of the loaded weight of the TV and the loaded weight of the TT. A related rating is the "Maximum Trailer Weight" (MTW). The GCWR and MTW can be found in the TV's Owners Manual. The numerical difference between the GCWR and the MTW will be approximately equal to the TV's "curb weight".
To use the MTW value, you first must estimate the weight of passengers (excluding driver), optional equipment, cargo, and weight distribution hitch (approximately 80#). The total weight of these extra items must be deducted from the MTW value.
For example, if your TV's MTW value is 7200# and the estimated weight of extras is 700#, the estimated maximum allowable trailer weight would be 7200-700 = 6500#. Please note that this maximum allowable trailer weight is NOT the same as the TT's GVWR.
Of course, there's more to the weight rating game than just the trailer weight. The TT's tongue weight also must be considered. A 6500# trailer would have a tongue weight of about 850#. That's less than your TV's receiver rating when using a WD hitch, so the receiver rating is not a problem.
The trailer-induced vertical load on the TV also must be considered because it is part of the TV's payload. The vertical load will be about 75% of the tongue weight or about 650#.
Assuming your TV has a payload (GVWR minus curb weight) of 1650#, the remaining payload capacity for the above-mentioned "extras" would be 1650-650 = 1000#. That should be sufficient for your family (we earlier assumed it would be 700#)
When you establish the actual values and refined estimates (CGWR, MTW, curb weight, weight of "extras", etc.) for your TV, you can follow the above procedure to get a refined estimate of maximum allowable trailer weight.
If we continue to assume the maximum allowable trailer weight is 6500#, your next task is to estimate how much cargo you will add to the trailer. Let's say that value is 1000#. That would mean the TT's sticker dry weight could not be more than 6500-1000 = 5500#. If you don't know the sticker dry weight, a good approximation can be obtained by adding 200# to a trailer's brochure dry weight.
Again, IMO, you should not use the TT's GVWR value unless you actually plan to load the TT to that value. Most people do not. Some TT's have a cargo carrying capacity of 3000# or more. Your TV doesn't care how much the TT can weigh -- it only cares how much the TT does weigh.
chaddd wrote: The weight issue is really scaring me. I will post some pictures of my trucks towing ability.---
I think you will find that for your TV, the maximum allowable trailer weight will be determined by the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).
The GCWR is the maximum allowable value for the sum of the loaded weight of the TV and the loaded weight of the TT. A related rating is the "Maximum Trailer Weight" (MTW). The GCWR and MTW can be found in the TV's Owners Manual. The numerical difference between the GCWR and the MTW will be approximately equal to the TV's "curb weight".
To use the MTW value, you first must estimate the weight of passengers (excluding driver), optional equipment, cargo, and weight distribution hitch (approximately 80#). The total weight of these extra items must be deducted from the MTW value.
For example, if your TV's MTW value is 7200# and the estimated weight of extras is 700#, the estimated maximum allowable trailer weight would be 7200-700 = 6500#. Please note that this maximum allowable trailer weight is NOT the same as the TT's GVWR.
Of course, there's more to the weight rating game than just the trailer weight. The TT's tongue weight also must be considered. A 6500# trailer would have a tongue weight of about 850#. That's less than your TV's receiver rating when using a WD hitch, so the receiver rating is not a problem.
The trailer-induced vertical load on the TV also must be considered because it is part of the TV's payload. The vertical load will be about 75% of the tongue weight or about 650#.
Assuming your TV has a payload (GVWR minus curb weight) of 1650#, the remaining payload capacity for the above-mentioned "extras" would be 1650-650 = 1000#. That should be sufficient for your family (we earlier assumed it would be 700#)
When you establish the actual values and refined estimates (CGWR, MTW, curb weight, weight of "extras", etc.) for your TV, you can follow the above procedure to get a refined estimate of maximum allowable trailer weight.
If we continue to assume the maximum allowable trailer weight is 6500#, your next task is to estimate how much cargo you will add to the trailer. Let's say that value is 1000#. That would mean the TT's sticker dry weight could not be more than 6500-1000 = 5500#. If you don't know the sticker dry weight, a good approximation can be obtained by adding 200# to a trailer's brochure dry weight.
Again, IMO, you should not use the TT's GVWR value unless you actually plan to load the TT to that value. Most people do not. Some TT's have a cargo carrying capacity of 3000# or more. Your TV doesn't care how much the TT can weigh -- it only cares how much the TT does weigh.
Ron
Ron thanks for the explanation. Im starting to get it. I was looking at a 07 Keystone Outback Kargoroo 28KRS and the seller told me it has a dry weight of 5960# does this mean I could tow this trailer but only carry about 500# extra. In this instance I would be at my maximum towing weight. Which would mean I need to look into something lighter right?
chaddd wrote: ---I was looking at a 07 Keystone Outback Kargoroo 28KRS and the seller told me it has a dry weight of 5960# does this mean I could tow this trailer but only carry about 500# extra. In this instance I would be at my maximum towing weight. Which would mean I need to look into something lighter right?
First, keep in mind the maximum trailer weight of 6500# was based on an assumed Maximum Trailer Weight value and an assumed weight of "extras" carried in or on the TV.
You need to provide the actual or estimated values.
IF the maximum allowable weight is 6500# and you had a trailer with an empty weight of 5960#,
you could carry 500# extra without exceeding the allowable weight limit.
The 500# would have to include the weight of any fresh water or waste water carried while towing.
You always should ask if a stated "dry weight" is from the manufacturer's brochure or website,
or if it is from the sticker which is attached to the trailer.
The Keystone website shows a "dry weight" of 6070# for the 2007 28KRS.
The sticker dry weight usually, but not always, is heavier than the website dry weight.
Given your family of four and your desire to allow for taking a couple extra friends along,
you probably should be looking for something lighter -- unless your TV's MTW is considerably more than the assumed 7200#.
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