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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Do i have the correct WDHitch for my camper???

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Ron Gratz

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Posted: 04/09/12 08:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LarryJM wrote:

Ron Gratz wrote:


I would rather have bars which are undersized by 50# versus being oversized by 150#.
Assuming a proper TV why do you say this. For 4 years now I have run the Equal-i-zer 1.2/12K system and my tongue wt. is around 900 to 950 and the trailer axle wt. of 6700 to 6900lbs. IMO it tows fine.
Larry, I say it because I believe that it is undesirable to have WD bars which are stiffer than necessary.

Bars which are too stiff will undergo excessive increases and decreases of load transfer as the TV/TT goes through dips or over humps.
For some rigs, this can lead to overstressing of trailer A-frames and/or hitch receivers.
It also can cause stability problems as load distribution changes.

I also believe that WDH manufacturers still rate their hardware based on the outdated notion of "equal squat".
Achieving equal squat requires significantly more bar loading than does the newer notion of returning the front axle load to, or less than, its unhitched value.

IMO, a WD bar is capable of providing proper load transfer for a tongue weight which exceeds the rating of the bar by 50-100# without overstressing the bar -- unless the user wants to achieve "equal squat".

Ron

Ron Gratz

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Posted: 04/09/12 08:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kevin O. wrote:

I was just figuring since I was at the max rating of 1000lbs with this hitch shouldn't I need to jump up to the 1200lb bars to be safe? The last thing I want is to end up breaking something. Wouldn't the 1200lb bars work more affectively since the weight it will be distributing is under its max rating???
Kevin, I tried to explain my rationale in my response to Larry.

In short, I believe a WD bar is rated based on the assumption that a pair of bars should be able to transfer a load equal to about 40% of the tongue weight to the TT axles. That is approximately how much load would need to be transferred to achieve the outdated notion of "equal squat".

If you want to follow Ford's current specification and make the front axle load equal to, or less than, the unhitched value, then you will be transferring significantly less than 40% of TW to the TT's axles -- perhaps only about 20-25%.

Ron

Chuck&Gail

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Posted: 04/09/12 10:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'll not argue. I'll just say if it was mine, I'd use the 1000# bars. We've NEVER loaded a TT to its GVWR in over 200,000 miles, and have joked a few times wondering how it would be possible.


Chuck
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2010 Outback 230RS Toybox, 5390# UVW, 6800# Loaded
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories
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f150camper

WA State

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Posted: 04/09/12 11:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kevin O. wrote:

I picked up my new camper a few weeks ago and today I noticed on the Equil-i-zer bar that its rated for a max tounge weight of 1000lbs. My camper has a tounge weight of 850lbs dry so im figuring fully loaded it will be more than 1000lbs? Shouldn't they have given me the 1200lb# bars?? Before i call my dealer i figured i would ask here first. Any input will be greatly appreciated! !


I think the bars are probably fine, but have you checked your GVWR? With 4 people and a 1,000 lbs tongue weight, you are most likely over with nothing in the bed unless you have the max tow package.
The standard FX4's that I have seen have a payload around 1,300 lbs or so.
BTW, I did call Equalizer with that question a while ago, and they said that anything over the tongue load rating requires the larger hitch, but I would personally agree with Ron.


Nights camped 2011: 13 (4 in the old popup)
Nights camped 2012: 36
Nights camped 2013: 28

2012 F-150 XLT screw 4x4 HD max tow
2012 Jayco X19H




goducks10

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Posted: 04/10/12 12:11am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eric james wrote:

goducks10 wrote:

I would upgrade as the F150's springs are somewhat soft. I have a 10 with maxtow (1857lb payload) and had 1200lb bars with an 850-900lb TW and had the bars cranked pretty good to get the needed lift. However I did have about 500lbs in the bed of the truck, which included a canopy and camping stuff. So if you are filling your truck bed with things or adding a topper or canopy you need to figure in that weight as well. The spring bars need to lift the TT's tongue weight and the rear of the truck, so whatever your puttting in the bed, it get's lifted too. I should've gotten 1400lb'ers but supposedly you can't put 1400lb bars in 1000-1200lb head sockets.


I have to disagree here. The WD hitch's job is to distrubute the tongue's weight to the front axle and the trailer's axles. It's not designed to take care of all the gear in the bed of the truck.

OP - I think you're not in too bad of shape with the 1000 bars. Dry weight is 6500 lbs. Average to add options and gear 1000 lbs. 7500 lbs x 13% minimum tongue weight = 975

Right on the edge. Contact Equal-i-zer to be sure.


So if you add stuff to the bed of a truck and the rear drops 2", and you hitch up and it drops another 2". But your hitch is only capable of bring up the rear 1-1/2" then your 2-1/2" low. and you probably haven't transfered any weight back to the front. I know because thats what my F150 did. I have a canopy and a sliding bed tray which adds up to about 280lbs. I throw a gen, wood, 2 bikes, lawn chairs, tools etc in the bed. With my 1200lb EQ I could never get the front back to 1/2 or less of the unhitched to hitched measurement. The 1200lb bars weren't capable of lifting all that weight. Putting stuff in the bed or in the front cargo hold of the TT is all the same. The spring bars have to lift it. So if you hitch up with nothing in the truck bed and the measurments are good, then add 500lbs to the truck bed, what do you think will happen to the rear measurement or the fron? The rear will drop and the front will rise, therefore reducing any weight transfer.

Kevin O.

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Posted: 04/10/12 01:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Taco6spd wrote:

Kevin O. wrote:

I picked up my new camper a few weeks ago and today I noticed on the Equil-i-zer bar that its rated for a max tounge weight of 1000lbs. My camper has a tounge weight of 850lbs dry so im figuring fully loaded it will be more than 1000lbs? Shouldn't they have given me the 1200lb# bars?? Before i call my dealer i figured i would ask here first. Any input will be greatly appreciated! !


I think the bars are probably fine, but have you checked your GVWR? With 4 people and a 1,000 lbs tongue weight, you are most likely over with nothing in the bed unless you have the max tow package.
The standard FX4's that I have seen have a payload around 1,300 lbs or so.
BTW, I did call Equalizer with that question a while ago, and they said that anything over the tongue load rating requires the larger hitch, but I would personally agree with Ron.
Yes I do have the max tow pkg with a GVWR of 7700lbs and 1700lb payload. The only things I put in the bed of my truck are fishing rods, tackle box and my little Weber Q grill.I am right at my max tongue weight so I have to pack most of the stuff in the trailer. Not that we pack alot since most of our trips are weekends and a couple 5 day trips.

* This post was edited 04/10/12 02:13am by Kevin O. *


KEVIN
DW-Debbie
DS-Tyler 8yrs old
DD-Makayla 5yrs old
MERIDEN,CT
2011 FORD F150 SUPERCREW FX4 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Pkg and 157" wheelbase
2006 SHAMROCK 21ss(Sold)
2012 Keystone Outback 292BH(New)


f150camper

WA State

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Posted: 04/10/12 08:24am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

EDIT: Never mind, I just realized that this post was by geoducks vs. Kevin O.

Ron Gratz

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Posted: 04/10/12 06:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

goducks10 wrote:

So if you add stuff to the bed of a truck and the rear drops 2", and you hitch up and it drops another 2". But your hitch is only capable of bring up the rear 1-1/2" then your 2-1/2" low. and you probably haven't transfered any weight back to the front.---
If the TT causes the rear to drop 2" and the WDH raises the rear 1.5", you probably have transferred more than enough load back to the front.

Quote:

---I know because thats what my F150 did. I have a canopy and a sliding bed tray which adds up to about 280lbs. I throw a gen, wood, 2 bikes, lawn chairs, tools etc in the bed. With my 1200lb EQ I could never get the front back to 1/2 or less of the unhitched to hitched measurement. The 1200lb bars weren't capable of lifting all that weight.---
The WD bars are not supposed to lift the weight which is placed in the bed. When you are travelling with weight in the bed but with no TT in tow, do you worry about lifting the weight in the bed? If you do, you should use air bags.

Quote:

---Putting stuff in the bed or in the front cargo hold of the TT is all the same. The spring bars have to lift it.---
Not true. When you put stuff in the bed, it has relatively little effect on the front axle load because the weight in the bed is close to the rear axle. OTOH, trailer-induced load is applied about 5' behind the rear axle. There's a big difference. The job of the WD bars is to restore load which has been removed from the front axle. If the load in the bed does not remove load from the front axle, there's no need to compensate for the load in the bed.

Quote:

---So if you hitch up with nothing in the truck bed and the measurments are good, then add 500lbs to the truck bed, what do you think will happen to the rear measurement or the fron? The rear will drop and the front will rise, therefore reducing any weight transfer.
I think the rear will drop. That should cause the WDH to increase the load transfer to the front axle. Increasing the load transfer should cause the front to drop. But, it depends on how the load is distributed in the bed.

HOWEVER, you should not add load to the bed after adjusting the WDH. The TV should be loaded before the WDH is adjusted. Then you simply adjust the WDH to return the front end back to, or slightly above, its unhitched height. If you don't like the amount of rear-end sag, you can use air bags. Just remember to load the TV and add air before adjusting the WDH.

Ron

* This post was last edited 04/10/12 08:50am by Ron Gratz *   View edit history

Kevin O.

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Posted: 04/10/12 01:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron Gratz wrote:

Kevin O. wrote:

I was just figuring since I was at the max rating of 1000lbs with this hitch shouldn't I need to jump up to the 1200lb bars to be safe? The last thing I want is to end up breaking something. Wouldn't the 1200lb bars work more affectively since the weight it will be distributing is under its max rating???
Kevin, I tried to explain my rationale in my response to Larry.

In short, I believe a WD bar is rated based on the assumption that a pair of bars should be able to transfer a load equal to about 40% of the tongue weight to the TT axles. That is approximately how much load would need to be transferred to achieve the outdated notion of "equal squat".

If you want to follow Ford's current specification and make the front axle load equal to, or less than, the unhitched value, then you will be transferring significantly less than 40% of TW to the TT's axles -- perhaps only about 20-25%.

Ron
Thank you Ron for all the helpful info!!!

Kevin O.

Connecticut

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Posted: 04/10/12 03:40am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

lbrjet wrote:

You should have thought about this before you purchased the hitch. The bars are not interchangeable on EQ hitches and you would need a need hitch head as well to go to a larger size. You should call the manufacturer (Progress) with your question. They are good folk and will most likely agree with Ron.
To be honest with you I didn't think about it at all since the hitch came with the new trailer and they set it up for me while I was in the office finalizing all the paperwork. I "ASSUMED " they put on the correct size hitch...

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