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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Lance Max ceiling.

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av8rds

Princeton, MA

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Posted: 04/09/12 02:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Finally getting around to working on installing solar in my 2008 Lance 992.

I want to upgrade the wiring from the pre-wire plus I'd like to have the controller a lot closer to the batteries than Lance planned.

I had hoped to be able to use the pre-wire as a 'snake' to pull the new wiring through but thats going to be a no go as its way too tight. I'm assuming its making a couple of 90 degree corners and its just drag, not 'short wiring'

That being said I cant do a normal refrigerator vent as my batteries are on the opposite side as the fridge. I also have the second slide which complicates things a little

That being said I was wondering if anyone had taken down the ceiling panels and whats involved?

any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated too.


'08 Lance 992
'06 X-cab Powerstroke Dually 4x4
'75 Ford Bronco Rockcrawler


halibutman214

Oregon

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Posted: 04/09/12 05:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

av8rds wrote:

I'm assuming its making a couple of 90 degree corners and its just drag, not 'short wiring'
Don't count on it. When they put my A/C in the prewire was pinched almost clear through. When they hit the breaker I guess it caused quite a nice arc. They said is wasn't the first Lance that had this issue as they didn't strap the wire down when they routed it.


2008 Dodge Ram 6.7 Laramie SRW SB
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AnEv942

CA

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Posted: 04/10/12 10:32am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Having had roof open pulling wires cant happen on our camper. Wires are either taped bundled-pass thru rafters or just wraped/tangled around each other. On couple of short pulls I had previously run new wires, the glass mat insulation was pulled and buched up. So even if you could likely to 'redistribute insulation.

Running down inside the vent pipe is how i ran ours. Drilled 1/2" hole approx controller height. I had access by removing unused wall thermostat. Worked well in this case as on the shower wall covering pipe is where I wanted controller, directly below is access to battery cabinet. I was able to access space behind shower thru tailight cutout.
Our 2 piece cap configuration slides over and seals to pipe so wouldnt have been able to run beside without compromising. I didnt seal hole, really couldnt reach, in pipe never noted any gases but its behind shower, space is rather open to lowere plumbing/valves area that leads outside.

Other option is straight thru roof if you have an overhead cabinet that leads where you want to go. Use combiner or simple watertite junction box to go/seal thru roof.


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av8rds

Princeton, MA

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Posted: 04/09/12 09:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

heftyhauler wrote:

From the pictures of current 992 it looks like your batteries are behind the bathroom. How about using the bathroom plumbing vent pipe area to route your solar wires from the roof to the battery compartment.

good luck
John


Yes they are. And you know I hadnt really thought of that idea. I guess if I sealed up the hole I'd drill with plumbers caulk or something like it would prevent any fumes from coming in.

Chief 2

Florida

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Posted: 04/10/12 04:11am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I recently installed a cyclone vent on my black tank vent. When I removed the original vent cap I found that there is plenty of room to run the wires down alongside the pipe, so you shouldn't need to do any drilling into the pipe itself.


2005 Lance 1181 Loaded
2005 Chevy 3500 4X4 Duramax, Edge Attitude Tuner, 5" Exhaust, Airaid, Ranchos, Air Bags, Hellwig Big Wig
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heftyhauler

new mexico

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Posted: 04/09/12 06:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

From the pictures of currect 992 it looks like your batteries are behind the bathroom. How about using the bathroom plumbing vent pipe area to route your solar wires from the roof to the battery compartment.

good luck
John

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