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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > If you could build your own TC, what would you do diff?

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Handbasket

Asheville, NC

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Posted: 04/10/12 08:23am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A one-piece molded f'glass roof that wraps a foot or so down the sides and F&R of the camper (think 'inverted boat hull'). Access to the driver's seat from the camper.

Jim, "In my day, there were _nine_ planets."


'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigervehicles.com

jimh425

Western WA

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Posted: 04/10/12 08:37am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My camper is pretty well designed. I'd provide more access to the components in the basement and install an inverter with automatic switching. I'd also potentially add digital readouts for things like black/grey/water/battery.

If money was no object, I'd use carbon fiber/kevlar for the skin over a titanium frame, and line the top with solar panels and add additional batteries.

* This post was edited 04/10/12 08:56am by jimh425 *


'06 F350 Lariat Supercab SRW, 6.0 PSD 4x4 Long Bed, Intake Elbow, Walker Big Truck Muffler. '06 Host Rainer 950 Double Slide, Fastguns. Firestone Air Bags, Rancho 9000s, Vision 19.5s with Hankook DH-01 245s, Energy Suspension bump stops.


QualitySnowman

Concord, Ohio

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Posted: 04/10/12 09:38am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On my 2003 Lance Lite 835...

1. Make the LPG door a design that doesn't channel water into the body.

2. Install a pocket door rather than hinge door on the bathroom that doubles as a shower curtain for the wet bath.

3. Diamond plate the base of the unit.

4. Outside speaker jacks just like inside.

5. Vents on door that's meant to carry a portable genset. Gasoline fumes...

6. Sliding passthrough window to truck. What's the point of a fixed one?!?!

7. Aluminum frame, fiberglass exterior. (I know, just buy a newer one)

8. Jacks that aren't terrifying.

9. Smaller escape hatch over bed so my friends don't get drunk and climb on the roof like monkees loose at the zoo (lol, true story, there were 5 of them up there one day when I came back from the store.)

10. Double size battery box or prewire the generator box with wires so you could put a second or third there.

11. Convection microwave and no oven; just a drop in gas top stove.

12. No windows in the cab over. Seems like a common point of failure.


Oh, and while were here, HEY DODGE; put the SiriusXM antenna somewhere else so it works with the TC on. My cab over covers it as it's by the back window. Doh!


~82 Brian "QualitySnowman" Snowden

~06 Ram 2500HD Quad 4x4 Laramie 8' Cummins 5.9 - 5" w/o Muff or Cat, Prog, 35's, Intake.
~13 Streamlite 27RKS 32' Champagne Ed.
~07 Honda Rancher 420 EFI 4x4 - 2" Lift, ITP 212 Alloys & 26" MudLite XTR, 2.5k Winch, Camo


QualitySnowman

Concord, Ohio

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Posted: 04/10/12 09:42am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Jacks would be mechanical crank-ups, built from modified gooseneck trailer landing gear jacks, with a 2x2 tube welded horizontally at the top to mount them that slides into a receiver tube built into the frame of the camper at each corner of the camper. The jacks would be removable with a hitch pin, accessed through the outside storage compartments. The jacks can store laying down in one of the lower side storage compartments, or be left at home, or stored on the trailer, if towing. The jacks could also be removed, rotated 90* and slid back into the receiver tubes and store horizontally, along the outside of the bottom sides of the camper.


Spot on! That sounds excellent! I had a 36' 5th Wheel before that had 2x2 box jacks like you speak of. Those SOBs were STURDY! Want them on the TC; never thought about that.

SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

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Posted: 04/10/12 10:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

QualitySnowman wrote:

Quote:

Jacks would be mechanical crank-ups, built from modified gooseneck trailer landing gear jacks, with a 2x2 tube welded horizontally at the top to mount them that slides into a receiver tube built into the frame of the camper at each corner of the camper. The jacks would be removable with a hitch pin, accessed through the outside storage compartments. The jacks can store laying down in one of the lower side storage compartments, or be left at home, or stored on the trailer, if towing. The jacks could also be removed, rotated 90* and slid back into the receiver tubes and store horizontally, along the outside of the bottom sides of the camper.
Spot on! That sounds excellent! I had a 36' 5th Wheel before that had 2x2 box jacks like you speak of. Those SOBs were STURDY! Want them on the TC; never thought about that.
What I described is pretty much what I already have for my slide-on utility body. They are indeed very stoutly built. The only thing I would change about them is give them a greater length range of motion.

They have a short cranking length and don't drop low enough to lift the body off the truck and then drop it down to near ground level. They do have sliding adjustable position lower legs, so I have got the body down low enough, but I had to use blocks and jack stands and do some raising and lowering of the legs a couple times for each jack to get it within a foot of the ground.










05E350 6.0PSD
97F350DRW 7.3PSD 4x4 4.10 11' flatbed
98Ranger
69Bronco ATC250R CR500
20' BigTex flatbed carhauler
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92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6
B&W TurnoverBall, Curt Magnum V
HD Springs Bilsteins,
285/75-16E BFG AT on 16x8 Stocktons
4.56's & LockRite rear

SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

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Posted: 04/10/12 10:20am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

QualitySnowman wrote:

Smaller escape hatch over bed so my friends don't get drunk and climb on the roof like monkees loose at the zoo (lol, true story, there were 5 of them up there one day when I came back from the store.)
As with anything safety related, there are minimum standards the manufacturers must adhere to. In this case, one of them is the minimum size of the hatch opening and any obstructions to that minimum required clear space.

If you're building your own camper, you can make it any size you want it, or not have one at all. Some safety items are still a good idea to have though, even if you are building it yourself and don't have standards to adhere to.

synergy_58

JBER, Ak (Anchorage)

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Posted: 04/10/12 10:40am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lots of great idea! I probably would have never thought of many of these things, well, maybe eventually, but really neat ideas. Quality is the biggest issue for me. There are a few things that AF went cheap on, and they didn't have to, which sucks. My expectations are simple with what I have at this point, as a first experience consumer that is.
But, as I mentioned, the carpeting, really? I mean come on brown shag! How much does this stuff cost anyway, it's a small piece for goodness sakes. It seems that the more I look, the more I find just how cheap camper manufacturers are, have become. TC's aren't cheap, by far. In comparison, one could buy a whole lot more in quality and amenities in a TT for what one pays for a TC. Of course, I know why we like TC's over TT's.

Yes, an inverter, outlets, a CENTERED access window that lines up with my truck sliding window...what is up with that crap, why have the window?

Don't get me wrong, we love our new AF TC, but PAY ATTENTION TO DETAILS PEOPLE! we're the customers here, keeping the industry in business, right?

Anyway, please keep sharing your thoughts, this is good stuff. It generates great ideas for all to share!

synergy_58

JBER, Ak (Anchorage)

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Posted: 04/10/12 10:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SoCalDesertRider wrote:

If I were to build my own truck camper, and $$ was not a limitation, I would weld the entire thing myself out of 304 stainless steel tube and sheet. The exterior would be powder coated white.

The entire carcass and some of the inside would be stainless: the frame; siding; roof; bottom; inside divider wall frames; cabinet frames, drawers, shelves, faces, doors, countertops, drawer and door handles; the bath/shower enclosure and fixtures; kitchen walls, sink and fixtures; range top and hood; microwave; refrigerator; window and vent frames; appliance vents, exterior access panels and storage compartment doors and latches; the floor would be stainless tread plate; the tanks would be stainless sheet, welded into the camper framing.

All the siding and roof seams would be welded in continuous, watertight beads. There would be very little opportunity for water intrusion. If water were to get in, there is very little consumable material for it to damage.

The camper would be a flatbed design, with full width bottom and floor and lots of built in exterior storage along the bottom sides and upper side interior storage cabinets. It would be a relatively small camper, 9 feet floor length, 80" width and 6'6" interior height.

The overcab bed would be an east/west orientation, 54x75 double size, with a storage cabinet across the front wall. It would not be a basement design, in order to keep the overall height low. There would be no slides, to simplify construction, reduce weight and reduce chance of leaking.

The camper layout would have a front wet bath/shower, front fridge and wardrobe, rear kitchen, rear dinette area and large rear entry door about 36" wide. The dinette area bed would be a convertible couch-bed, 48x75.

The roof would have no appliance or tank vents or skylights, completely smooth and hole-free. All the vents would be on the side and rear walls. There would be no front overcab window. There would be rack bars welded on the roof for carrying a canoe.

It would have tinted polycarbonate windows, double glazed. The side overcab windows and the dinette window would be the pop-out emergency exit type, since there is no emergency exit vent in the roof. The bathroom would have an operable window and an electric vent fan, through the rear wall. It would have a medium size kitchen window, large side wall dinette area window and small rear wall dinette area window.

Interior would have an accoustic cieling and walls in all but the kitchen and bath, which would be stainless sheet. The floor and step to overcab bed would be Rhino lined, over stainless tread sheet. Insulation would be 1-1/2" hard foam board in the walls, roof and bottom.

Jacks would be mechanical crank-ups, built from modified gooseneck trailer landing gear jacks, with a 2x2 tube welded horizontally at the top to mount them that slides into a receiver tube built into the frame of the camper at each corner of the camper. The jacks would be removable with a hitch pin, accessed through the outside storage compartments. The jacks can store laying down in one of the lower side storage compartments, or be left at home, or stored on the trailer, if towing. The jacks could also be removed, rotated 90* and slid back into the receiver tubes and store horizontally, along the outside of the bottom sides of the camper.

Exterior of the camper would have radius corners at the side walls and roof, like a horse trailer. The overcab front cap would be flat with radius corners, like a gooseneck horse trailer. The windows would have radius corners. The rear entry door would have upper radius corners. There would be a rear awning.

The flatbed the camper loads on would have an 80x108 deck, made for mounting on a 60" cab to axle length single rear wheel 1-ton cab/chassis truck. It would have a 42" high, 60" top width headache rack, just above cab height. The bed would be built of galvanized steel c-channel and tread plate, powder coated black. There would be a galvanized steel 18x18x42 storage cabinet under each side of the bed, ahead of the rear wheels and an 18x18x30 storage cabinet under each side of the bed behind the rear wheels, powder coated black. The bed would have a 2-1/2" receiver hitch built into the frame of the rear apron/step bumper.

The flatbed would have a 30x80 tailgate that folds down into a rear porch, with a hinged telescoping step ladder attached to the pass side end of the tailgate for side entry to the porch. When the tailgate is up, the ladder folds across the back of the tailgate, held in place by hitch pins and pin tabs on the tailgate. The tailgate would have tie down points for tying down extra cargo, bikes, gas jugs, cooler, etc when traveling with the tailgate down. The flat bed would have mounting tabs in each corner to attach the camper to the bed with hitch pins.

Appliances-
-3-burner gas drop-in range
-range hood with vent fan venting through side wall
-microwave/convection oven
-3-way 4 cu ft fridge with side wall vents
-gas/electric self starting 6 gal water heater
-gas forced air ducted thermostatic furnace
-12vdc water pump
-9K btu AC built into upper inside cabinet, venting through side or rear wall

Electrical system-
-110vac/12vdc coverter/smart charger/solar controller and 12vdc/110vac inverter in exterior side compartment
-3 or 4 AGM 12vdc batteries in exterior side compartment
-roof top solar panels
-Honda 3000euis generator on slide out tray in exterior side compartment
-LED lighting interior and exterior
-stereo/cd/mp3, 3 amps, 6 inside speakers plus sub, 4 outside speakers
-cb/10m radio, 400 watt amp, 102" whip
-110vac and 12vdc outlets in overcab area, kitchen area and outside
-6 pin commercial trailer plug connection to truck
-2 pin heavy duty power connection to truck
-continuous duty solenoid switch for truck battery connection

Plumbing-
-30 gal fresh tank
-20 gal grey tank
-cassette toilet, accessed through exterior side panel
-outside shower
-kitchen sink
-bathroom shower, no sink
-single 30 gal horizontal forklift propane tank in exterior side compartment

The 159" wheelbase supercab single rear wheel one-ton 4wd chassis truck would run 285/75-18E all terrain tires with 4080 lb weight rating on custom 18x8 heavy duty steel wheels with matching weight rating, for max 8160 lb rear axle/tire/wheel load capacity. Heavy duty rear 7-leaf spring packs and 3-leaf overload packs would be sized according to the loaded rear axle weight. The truck would use custom valved Bilstein 5100 shocks.

The truck's drivetrain would consist of a Cummins ISB 5.9 12 valve turbo diesel with exhaust brake, NV5600 6-speed manual granny gear transmission, US Gear 1.2 ratio 2-speed underdrive aux transmission, NP205 4wd transfer case, Dana 60 high pinion front axle with king pins and manual locking hubs, front axle suspension on 3-leaf springs with a tracking bar, Dana 80 rear axle with disc brakes, driveline mounted parking brake drum, hydroboost brake booster, 4.10 axle ratio and Lock Right locking rear differential.

The truck frame would use 60kpsi formed c-channel 10x3x1/4, straight rails front to rear, 34" rail spacing, 7 fabricated cross members huck bolted to the rails. The body/cab would be from a '92-'97 Ford, SuperCab 2-door, with XLT interior. The chassis would carry a 30 gal midship fuel tank inside the driver side frame rail and a 20 gal rear fuel tank behind the axle. Spare tire mounts under the rear tank.


WOW, what thought out details! Then the jack's, I could see the vast improvement. My jacks are really slow, I thought they would be much faster, oh well.
So, your idea of wheels and tires, is this the perfect set-up, would this work best for my needs? Did we discuss this already, this size combo?

I still can't get through to Rickson, through trying. But, I sure would rather have aluminum wheels. You think 18" is a better size with a better selection of tires?

QualitySnowman

Concord, Ohio

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Posted: 04/10/12 11:23am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SoCalDesertRider wrote:

QualitySnowman wrote:

Smaller escape hatch over bed so my friends don't get drunk and climb on the roof like monkees loose at the zoo (lol, true story, there were 5 of them up there one day when I came back from the store.)
As with anything safety related, there are minimum standards the manufacturers must adhere to. In this case, one of them is the minimum size of the hatch opening and any obstructions to that minimum required clear space.

If you're building your own camper, you can make it any size you want it, or not have one at all. Some safety items are still a good idea to have though, even if you are building it yourself and don't have standards to adhere to.


While a true story, this was just a little joke. The size is fine, and I know why it's so large.

Western Sky Ranch

Norco, California, U.S.A.

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Posted: 04/10/12 12:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, since you asked......

There would be ballistic resistant side panels and windows on all walls and the door. There would be an armored roof hatch with drop down ladder to access the hatch from inside. Hatch would spring up (clam style) to provide back protection if facing rearward. Small square ports would be placed fore and aft as well as at the side walls for.... air ventilation

Solar panels would also be ballistic resistant and be side hinged to spring-up upon release and provide flanking cover for the roof hatch exit. A/C unit would double as turret mount for uh.....ummmmm....... a BBQ!!

Holding tanks would have electric release valves accessible from inside to release contents upon roadway if necessary to....... avoid being overweight!!

All shore connections would have break-away capabilities in case of...... an earthquake!

And that good for nothing pass-through window (yeah right!) would be a submarine hatch retro-fit for quick access to driver's cabin in case..... you forgot your phone charger in the truck cab again.


*******************************************************
2003 Ford F250, Super Crew, 4X4, 6.0 Liter Power Stroke Diesel with a Reese hitch.
2008 Carraige Domani DF300 fifth wheel

***And a 2011, Lance 825 Truck Camper!!***

RALLIES ATTENDED 2


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