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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > 120 Volts out of a hot tub box

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jetboater454

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Posted: 04/10/12 08:16am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hope I can post this here. Need advice from all the smart electricians we have.
I'm installing a 220V hot tub,running 6/3 wire from main pole box to the tub,about 75/80' through conduit. Wondering if I can get 120V out of the tub disconnect to run a few plugs on the deck? I know about the GFI stuff.Looking to run 2 plugs for deck lights.
One other question,tub is rated 40 amps,but disconnects I'm finding come with 50 amp breakers,also what breaker to install in the main box--50amp?


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MEXICOWANDERER

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Posted: 04/10/12 08:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Are you running a neutral or earth ground as your 3rd wire?

jetboater454

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Posted: 04/10/12 08:41am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mexbungalows wrote:

Are you running a neutral or earth ground as your 3rd wire?


Neutral wire.

randrx2

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Posted: 04/10/12 08:52am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have seen it done all the time...incorrectly. If you are going to do it, the best way would be to run a sub panel outside and then feed the hot tub (with a 50 or 40 amp breaker and feed, depending on the rating of the hot tub) and then feed the receptacles (with a 20 amp breaker and feed).

The reason you cannot just tap off the hot leg of the hot tub for the receptacle is this: The circuit is protected at 50A or 40A. If there is a fault on the receptacle leg (say 30-35A worth), then the 20A receptacle wire can burn up and cause a fire and the 50A or 40A breaker may not even trip.

Replace the 50A breaker in the disconnect with a 40A breaker or special order a 40A hot tub disconnect.

40A breaker in the panel if you are using a 40A disconnect and 50A breaker if 50A disconnect. Although technically, you could use the 50A breaker in the panel even with the 40A disconnect.
You could "tap" out of the existing hot tub disconnect, but you would need to install a 20A breaker right after the tap. By the time you do that, you would be better off installing the sub-panel (safer).


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jetboater454

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Posted: 04/10/12 08:57am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Never thought of the sub panel before the tub.That sounds like the plan to go with,then I can run a few extra circuits. Thanks.

Sandy & Shirley

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Posted: 04/10/12 12:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Step 1, buy a volt meter!

6-3 wire shoudl have red and black hot wires that are 180 degrees out of phase plus a white wire and also a plain copper wire for ground.

If this is the case, 220 volts is when you use the red adn black wires. if you use either the red or black and the white wire, you will get 120 volts.

Check the voltage with your volt meter!


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JLTN_James

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Posted: 04/10/12 02:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Many years ago I helped a friend install his hot tub. We installed a 50A 240V feed from the main panel to a four-circuit sub panel. In the sub-panel we installed the 40A two-pole breaker (240V) for the hot tub's heater & pump, plus a 15A single-pole breaker (120V) for the hot-tub's lights & sound system. The sub-panel and breakers came with his tub. It also had a spot for a future single-pole breaker, but it was already close to maxing the 50A feed when everything was on.


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Posted: 04/10/12 04:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

going to need 4 wire cable, not 3 wire or did you use 6/3 wg (with ground) already?most times today they assume the ground and do not count it.ie 6/3 would have 4 wires. Yes, install a sub panel.

Sandy & Shirley

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Posted: 04/11/12 09:50am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another word of caution: The 240 volt wire that goes to my pool pump is 12/2 w/ground. The voltage between the black and white wires is 240 volts.

Some dryer outlets are wired the same way.

Always, always test the circuit with a volt meter before you plug your RV into it. Too many stories on these forums of people who have fried every electronic device in their RV by not testing first.

MEXICOWANDERER

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Posted: 04/11/12 11:17am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would also consider using a 12 volt landscape-type lighting system that is housed in a rainproof NEMA enclosure positioned and located in such a manner as to minimize any risk of water entry. 120vac around water scares the bejeezus out of me.

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