I would definitely flush the brake fluid before going on any trips. Brake fluid will absorb moisture through the lines and cause rust in the inside of the brake systems. It is probably also a good time to replace all belts and hoses. It is a lot cheaper to do that at home than on the road. Another source of your generator problem is if there is a small crack in the fuel line that will allow air to get in and that will keep it from running.
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, 2008 Saturn Vue, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake
wow thanks for all of the responses, i really appreciate it.
the PO took really good care of it. it had developed 2 leaks, one above the front bed (the one that folds down over the drivers/ passenger's seats). and another over the shower skylight. both were caught days after they leaked. no rot at all. the only evidence above the front bed, is the ceiling paneling hangs down a little, and in the shower, the wood got a little stained, no rot at all tho. the vent is currently removed, so i can see all the wood.
was there ever a light in the shower? there is just a fan there, with a few wires hanging. i'll post up some pics. but i'm thinking the wires are for the switch. don't wanna plug something up wrong.
and as far as the generator goes, i'll see if i can get the panels off, and see whats going on. the muffler on mine seems to be attached to the frame part that doesn't slide via a rubber strap style mount. when i get under and pull back and fouth on the tray, the muffler is twisting. perhaps someone atached that mount incorrectly at some point. i'll try to take a bunch of pics and post them up, asap. i'm going to tennesse on the 20th-22nd (next week), for a huge VW show (hence the username bugman, i tinker on old VW's, lol).
thanks again
1984 Pace Arrow by Fleetwood 28'
1972 VW Super Beetle (daily driver)
1974 VW Super Beetle (Frame Off Resto)
1960 Baja Bug
1969 Baja Bug
1970's Sand rail
1929 Mercedes Benz Gazelle Kit Car on 71' Bug Chassis
Our first motorhome was a 1984 Pace Arrow with the 454. After you get the generator working, you might also have the manifold checked for leaks. I also kept a spare set of ignition wires. Each summer trip, I needed to replace the set. The heat in summer burned the wires and the 454 would start to miss.
It was a good coach, and we had great trips from CA to DC each year.
so i just finished workin on it. and am working on 3 main issues:
((FIRST)) I replaced the ground cable that goes from the chassis frame to the generator frame, and re did all three battery connections. the PO did some kind of wierd thing with some of those twist off quick dis-connects, that had another battery post terminal end clamped to it. all of the connections were corroded. so i got rid of all that, and got brand new brass battery ends for all of the batteries, and wire brushed all of the cable terminal loops on the ends of the wires till they all shined. now the generator cranks good, but still won't start. i'm not getting any spark at all. i still haven't filled up yet. will low gas somehow activate something that shuts off spark to the generator, or does having low gas just not let it get gas? i took the points cover off, and it all looks brand new in there. perfectly clean, no corrosion, even the contacts looks fresh. and they are moving as they should. any ideas?
((SECOND)) i'm having issues with the fridge. its a 3 way fridge. it has 12V, 120V and propane going to it. the problem is, that everytime i plug in a new 30A fuse, it immidiately blows it. even with the button on top of the fridge set to OFF or ON, it still blows. when i popped the black cover off of the back, i noticed one of the terminal wasn't connected from the 120 cord. i plugged it in and still no difference. the PO told me that the fridge it had didn't work, and he replaced it with a fridge he got out of a newer model RV, but kept the origional doors since it was the same fridge (the model on the doors says "RM763 Automatic Engegy Selector"), but again, it supposed to be a newer fridge. the panel on top has the following buttons starting from left to right:
- ON/OFF
- AUTO/ GAS
- A light that says "check" not an actuall button
- then 5 lights that go say cold to coldest twith one button next to it
this panel looks like it wasn't there because its just kinda sitting ontop of the fridge. its as wide as the frige, and needs to be screwed down to the wall.
((THIRDLY)) the fresh water tank is leaking. if i hook a water hose to it via the connection on the side, the water just gushes out. if i fill the tank up with waterm and turn the water pump on, the faucets just gurgle, and randomly spit out water. and from underneath the RV while the pump is running, it sounds like its sucking air. also withthe tank full, and parked at an angle the water just drips out. if i park witht he nose up, it stops leaking, if i park with the nose down, or with one side leaning, it leaks. i finally just parked it with the nose down untill it stopped leaking. but my real problem is, where is the tank at? i can't see it from underneath. i can see the grey/ black water tanks and the gas tank, so i'm guessing its inside somewhere. any ideas on how i can gain access to it? the only place i can think of is under the kitchen counter, and bathrook sink. there seems to be a box in there covered by carpet under the kitchen sink, that contiunes under the bathroom sink, since there's no cabinet or drawer there. there's a drawer above it, but can't figure out how to remove it to see if thats even where the tank is. the inside is completely dry, no leaks inside. also don't see the pump anywhere. its definately somewhere because i can hear it when i turn it on, and it goes shoot some water to the faucets, but mostly air. i just want to find the broken line and fix it.
sorry for being so long winded. just wanna be as descriptive as possible, lol. if i can get my camera to connect to my puter, i'll try and upload some pics i took. thanks
-Mike
* This post was
edited 04/13/12 02:56pm by Bugman114 *
Crespro wrote: Our first motorhome was a 1984 Pace Arrow with the 454. After you get the generator working, you might also have the manifold checked for leaks. I also kept a spare set of ignition wires. Each summer trip, I needed to replace the set. The heat in summer burned the wires and the 454 would start to miss.
It was a good coach, and we had great trips from CA to DC each year.
Best of luck,
Crespro
the wires currently on it appear to be origonal. i'll get a set of those wire heat shields that are made out of the same stuff exhaust wrap is made of, tho. I had the same problem on my 79 chevy c30 with a 454. the heat shields solved that issue. advance auto carries them instock. i believe O'rilies does too. i know summit has them as well. thanks for that tip. I had completely forgotten about that issue
And one more thing i forgot to mention, is the fridge has a loose wire. on the back under the black fuse cover, there's a 4 pin connector. one of those wires is blue, and comes down, and it looks like it broke off of something. it has heatshrink on the end, and it looks like there was something there, but i can't find any terminals where it may have broken off of. does anyone one know where this blue wire goes, or maybe even have a wiring scehatic for it? there's a schematic on the back of the fridge, but it looks like it got scratched up really bad from the installation, that its un-readable.
anyhoo worked alot on it today. got the generator running. turned out to be just a bit of corrosion on the relays inside the switch box. also kinda got the leaks fixed on the fresh water system. found the tank (under the bed) and pump (under the bathroom counter). there are 3 valves under the kitchen sink, that were open (they drain to the ground), guess they are to drain the system. so it works a lot better, but it still seems like the pump is sucking water or something, as all the faucets, and even the toilet still gurgle. guess i need a new pump, idk.
the only real problem i still have is the fridge. i found a wiring scematic online (its an RM2620 btw with a date of 1995 inside). but it still keeps blowing the 30A fuse up front. doesn't matter weather the ON off switch is on or off, or weather the bottom on off switch is on or off. everything seems to be wired correctly. of course i may have missd something. anyone have any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? Thanks
Offline
