While de-winterizing the trailer I shot some compressed air up the chimney flue, water heater burner, checked tire pressure etc and while I was at it fired some air in the intake and exhaust of the Suburban SF-30F furnace, smart thing to do or not I don't know. Of course I make sure everything works before we head out on the first trip, including the furnace.
First trip we get setup, go to the local bar to watch the Canucks game, come back, fire up the furnace, all is good. Awfully cold in the trailer in the morning, turn up the heat, nothing. Fan blows, I can hear the igniter, smell unburnt propane out of the exhaust but no flame.
Get on the smart phone, do a Google search, some people say they can get theirs to ignite by blocking the exhaust when they hear the igniter. So all weekend I'm doing that, sometimes it ignites, sometimes not, frustrating!
I get home, turn it on, it fires up fine, WTH!
So I'm thinking there might be some crud in the orifice or on the burner or something, manual says for 'consistent ignition" the electrode needs to be positioned properly, they explain how to do that but they don't tell how to get the chamber out of the case. Looks to me like I need to take the whole motor, squirrel cage, wiring etc etc apart to get at the screws holding the chamber in place..¿?
I know I've read of other people on here changing boards, sail switches, valves etc but I can't find anything anywhere explaining how to disassemble the furnace. I've remove the range to get better access to the furnace which is now sitting on my bench. What's the next step?...
.... (maybe taking it in somewhere?)
06 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins 6 spd std with a few goodies.
Follow the gas pipe to the gas valve and on the other side, it leads to the burner chamber. You'll need a 5/8" crow's-foot flare-nut line wrench to separate the burner from the gas valve. There isn't really room for it to turn but if you remove all the screws on the burner assembly first it helps some. Be extra careful not to break the fragile gasket between the burner assembly and the heat exchanger. The orifice is at the end of the pipe that goes into the back of the burner. Crud in the orifice is a good suggestion. Also check for insufficient gas pressure and once it's apart, check that the burner isn't rusted out.
Working on propane furnaces if you don"t know what you are doing is called " Russian roulette". Call a trained tech or get a friend who has some knowledge of gas appliances before you blow yourself up.I lost a friend this way.
chipper wrote: Working on propane furnaces if you don"t know what you are doing is called " Russian roulette". Call a trained tech or get a friend who has some knowledge of gas appliances before you blow yourself up.I lost a friend this way.
X2 I have to agree its not safe. if you are asking how to get it apart you have answered your own question, call a pro.
My Suburban was a different model, but hopefully similar. If so, you will have to remove the furnace from the trailer to reach the burner area. The housing should stay mounted in the trailer and the innards will slide out easily in one piece. First you will have to disconnect the gas line (make sure your propane supply is shut off first. ) next you need to remove your exhaust plate from the outside of the trailer. Now if I remember right, there are a couple of screws to remove and it all slides out.
Mine had symptoms very similar to yours and it ended up that the ignitor tip had burnt off over the years, so the gap was too large between it and the burner. A new ignitor with the proper gap, and the problem was gone.
Hope this helps.
In regard to the Fisherguy's remark about being born omniscient, clarification is in order. None of us on this forum was born omniscient. The key to success without blowing yourself up is to know when to stop and get help, rather than keep putzing with potentially dangerous gas.
Thanks for all the concern as to my well being, but there's enough safety measures built into these furnaces I'm not too worried about "blowing myself up".
I don't think 'putzing' with propane is any more dangerous than putzing with wiring, mechanical, brake jobs or anything else we all do ourselves.
Well, literally one screw holds the guts in the furnace. Where that screw is depends on how the furnace was installed. If it has an exterior access door, the screw is outside. If id doesn't, the screw is inside. If the OEM messed up, and the furnace has never had its required annual maintenance, you may have to remove the case and all.
( For an SF series).
Chris Bryant wrote: Well, literally one screw holds the guts in the furnace. Where that screw is depends on how the furnace was installed. If it has an exterior access door, the screw is outside. If id doesn't, the screw is inside. If the OEM messed up, and the furnace has never had its required annual maintenance, you may have to remove the case and all.
( For an SF series).
DOH!
Ya mean the one between the 2 screws that hold the unit to the floor, the one labeled: "DO NOT REMOVE THIS SCREW EXCEPT FOR SERVICING UNIT", YA MEAN that screw?
Don't know why I didn't see that, sometimes ya can't see the forest through the trees I guess?
Thanks Chris.
I'm gonna take pictures and maybe do a post on this thing.
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