a_kraker99
Michigan
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Joined: 03/18/2012
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Okay so I am pretty new to the travel trailer world and I haven't gone to a camp site yet. I am just wondering what the correct way to level and stabilize a trailer is.
I have 4 scissor jacks. Assuming the campsite is mostly level, can the scissor jacks be used to raise the side of the camper a small amount if needed or do you always need to use blocks under the wheels? I am not talking about raising it so the wheels are off the ground. Just an inch or so to get perfectly level.
Front and back leveling is done with the tongue jack right?
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tomman
out and about....
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Joined: 06/07/2004
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Back into the site, level side to side using leveling blocks, chock the wheels and disconnect the TV. Level front to back using the tongue jack. STABILIZE using the scissor jacks.
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five'er
Canada
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Joined: 09/25/2006
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a_kraker99 I think you have the right idea.
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pwrplay
Burlington
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Joined: 02/05/2012
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The stabilizers are not meant to support the weight of the trailer, just stabilize it. You could bend them with too much weight on them . Put blocks or levellers down first , then drop the stabilizers and once they hot the ground just give them another little crank to eliminate any slack. On soft/sandy ground its best to use blocks under the stabilizers to prevent sinking.
2012 Coachmen Freedom Express 292BHDS
Husky Centreline WDH w/sway control
2009 Ford F250 Super Duty CC 4x4 6.8L V10 4.10 "Big Bubba"
2013 Nights Camped: 2
2012 Nights Camped: 38
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi,
I don't bother with leveling perfectly most of the time. The jacks are more about stabilizing than leveling. No one in my family minds the "bounce".
If I were going to be in a location several nights in a row I might consider using some sort of stabilizing method, but probably not scissor jacks.
Since you have them already, pick up a 3/8 inch cordless drill that can be used to "spin" the jacks, it will make your life easier.
Yesterday someone backed into my RV. There would have been a LOT more damage had I been using stabilizers.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 2500 MSW watt inverter.
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APT
SE Michigan
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Joined: 06/09/2010
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a_kraker99 wrote:always need to use blocks under the wheels...
Front and back leveling is done with the tongue jack
This.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2012 VW Passat TDI
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N7SJN
SE Washington State
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Joined: 01/26/2011
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We full time and when we know that we will be in one place for awhile I use four additional "T"pees this keeps the DW happy as she does not like any bounce. I put them midway between the rear and front stabilizers and the tires.
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We Cant Wait
Jamestown NY
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Joined: 02/20/2010
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When leveling side to side I've found that I need to have the slide-out side just a bit higher because when I extend the slide the trl will lean a little on the slide side. I will also use the jacks to level the trl side to side if the trl is 1/2 a bubble or less off. Yes the jacks will take a fair amount of load to assist in leveling the trl.
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fla-gypsy
North Florida
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Joined: 04/19/2005
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It is not necessary to level a trailer "perfectly". Affecting the attitude of the the TT with the stabilizers is not going to hurt anything IMO. If you put too much weight on the jacks you are much more likely to create flexing in the frame which could potentially damage something but not likely. My door is at the very end of the trailer and when I overtighten the stabilizers the door wants to stick some with the 32' long trailer. You are on the right track. If I am noticeably off side to side then I use a 2x8 that I cut and beveled on one end to go under the tandem on either side.
09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10(The Black Pearl)
06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The Cracker Cabana)
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RedRocket204
Colorado Front Range - Got Elk?
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Joined: 05/22/2010
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I've only been TT'ing for the last couple of years but my understanding behind perfect side-to-side leveling was originally more about the refrigerators being used. I also understand that is not as much an issue any longer as most of the refrigerators today will function fine at ~ level, not having to be perfect.
Having said that, does your TT have a slide? IMO, this is the more important reason to know how perfect your TTs side-to-side level is and this is based upon the slide seals. On my TT, there is a metal strip, behind the slide's wiper, that runs parallel the length of the seal analogous to a water dam, meant to keep all the water out. Behind that metal strip, water can freely enter into the TT through the slide.
Our first outing, I thought I had my TT level side-to-side, slide then put out and we left. It started raining pretty heavy and upon return to the TT there was a steady stream of water entering the cabin via the top of the slide (panic ensued  ). Now, my TT was not too far off side-to-side level, obviously the slide was on the high side this time. I have since resolved the ability for water to enter my TT if not 100% level side-to-side by use of Eternabond to fully seal out any chance for water to enter the slide.
However, the point still stands that it can be important to know your side-to-side level to make sure a high side is not your slide side. As well, not all slides are sealed equally so this may not be an issue for everyone. We also were experiencing a good downpour which helped complicate the situation but did bring to light the possibility of a potential leak on our specific TT.
I love me some land yachting
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