boubou64
kingston
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Joined: 06/18/2010
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I tried to reply to a thread I started last fall but it wouldn't let me so here's the story.
I purchased the Reese Dual Cam HP WD/Anti sway for the local auto/truck add on type of shop with install trusting they knew what they were doing. After a few hours of install attempt, I started feeling a little off about their knowledge of the set up but they guys and owner where pretty nice and genuine in their effort and willingness to make it right. The set up was pretty good in the WD part but the trunion bars where a little off the saddle.
After 2 trips, I noticed that one of the cam bracket was stripped. I proceeded to check the torque on them all and they were all stripped. I think the guy probably overdid it when installing and all the self tapping screws got stripped. They were more than willing to fix it for me but their repair job would be to make bigger holes.
I've read enough about Reese DC self tapping screws to know that a lot of them fail so I was not keen in going that way.
I decided to go to my favorite local auto repair shop (don't know why I didn't think of going there in the first place)
The guy had a TT for several years and is familiar with Reese.
We discussed options:
a) new self tapping screws and loctite
b) nutserts
c) tac weld
I picked tac weld (even tho I read a few comments against it) because I will not trade this TT up or down and when I sell it, the Reese will go with it.
It still can be ground off if needed to be removed and...
I just read about this guy who had the same WD system installed on his Jayco and the shop stripped the nuts, then proceeded with the bolt through method and squeezed the frame in. now what?
The shop also re-adjusted the cam arms into the saddles. nice and flush.
All is good and ready for travelin'
tac weld on cam bracket by boubou1, on Flickr
800 lbs Trunion bar by boubou1, on Flickr
Reese Dual Cam HP by boubou1, on Flickr
Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum limit of 640px maximum width to avoid scrolling.
* This post was
edited 04/12/12 05:06pm by an administrator/moderator *
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2013 Jayco Eagle HT 23.5
2010 Ram 1500 HEMI with integrated brake controller, tow mirrors and Michelins LTX/AT2 275/65R20 max load: 3750 lbs. @ 80 psi
Superglide 2700
Timbrens
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Joined: 02/25/2005
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Maybe it's just the viewing angle but it doesn't look like the hitch head is angled toward the trailer, are the spring bars under any pressure?
Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6 speed Cummins (lightly bombed),
2004 Forest River 25RKS many, many mods.
H0NDA eu2000i
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boubou64
kingston
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ScottG wrote:Maybe it's just the viewing angle but it doesn't look like the hitch head is angled toward the trailer, are the spring bars under any pressure?
You are right, it's not
but the spring bars are under a lot of pressure. Have to bring the jack almost all the way up to hook the chains on and off. In order to keep the 5 chain links required under pressure (have 6 chain links engaged now), this is where the hitch head had to be. I also have 20" tires on the truck makes it higher too.
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jerem0621
Sequatchie, TN
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Joined: 05/17/2009
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Good Deal!
You guys with trunnion bars and the coupler mounted on the bottom of the trailer frame do not know how easy you have it! LOL
It would be super simple to achieve the hitch head angle and keep things pretty simple.
All you would need to do is move the hitch head up one hole on your shank, then you can add the hitch head angle that would pull the ball back down to where it should be (3/4 to 1 inch above the coupler when the TT is level and the rig is unhitched.
Hitch head angle allows the WD bars the ability to do their job of distributing the tongue weight force across the entire rig. How much is needed is really dependent upon the rig.
This would probably make it much easier to hitch up too.
Quick question here,
your trailer is 21 ft long right? What is the weight rating of your WD bars?
Thanks!
Jeremiah
TT: 1995 Layton 2910
Tow Vehicle: 1999 F-350, v10, 2wd, Crew Cab, Dually
Hitch: Draw-Tite Trunnion WD Hitch
Sway Control: Valley dual friction sway control
Brake Control: Tekonsha Voyager
"It's Kind of Fun To Do The Impossible"
~Walt Disney~
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boubou64
kingston
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Trailer 25.6 total lenght (22 feet inside). Bars are 800 lbs
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boubou64
kingston
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Scott, you think thae set up looks good?
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jerem0621
Sequatchie, TN
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One more question, is your front fender height back to stock height under weight distribution. If so, then you are probably good to go. Hitch head angle helps the hitch transfer weight forward. If you are back to stock then its probably fine.
Thanks!
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boubou64
kingston
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Measured last fall, cannot remember but these are my numbers at the scale, 120 lbs light on front
Steer axle: 3440
Drive axle: 2600
Gross weight: 6040
Truck and TT
Steering axle: 3320
Drove axle: 3460
trailer : 5140
Gros weigth: 11920
So tongue weight 720
Using 800 lbs bar
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SoCalDesertRider
SanDiego, CA, USA
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Definitely nothing wrong with welding the snap brackets to the trailer frame. I have a regular Reese/Valley style weight distributing hitch and my brackets are welded to the trailer frame. Been that way for years with no problems.
05E350 6.0PSD
97F350DRW 7.3PSD 4x4 4.10 11' flatbed
98Ranger
69Bronco ATC250R CR500
20' BigTex flatbed carhauler
Callen Camper
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6
B&W TurnoverBall, Curt Magnum V
HD Springs Bilsteins,
285/75-16E BFG AT on 16x8 Stocktons
4.56's & LockRite rear
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LarryJM
NoVa
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Joined: 11/09/2007
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ScottG wrote:Maybe it's just the viewing angle but it doesn't look like the hitch head is angled toward the trailer, are the spring bars under any pressure?
My thoughts also there doesn't appear to be any bend in them TINY bars with the full TW on the TV.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
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