What I was told by Reese was that it is important to make sure you instal the mounting coupler in the same spot on the frame as the other side.
I took a measurement from the weld on the trailer coupler to the front edge of the sway bar mount then marked that measurement on the left side. Then used a framing square to mark a straight line. Get your height from the top of the mounting coupler and then transfer it to the left side in two places. Using two c-clamps attach the mounting coupler to the frame then mark the holes center punch them and drill them using the correct size drill.
Note: I did not use the sheet metal screws provided but used SS cap screws with ny-loc bolts.
I looked high and low but could not find a "left side" friction bar to save my life.
Don
Perrysburg Dodgeboy 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT Cummins HO
2005 Keystone Cougar 304 BHS
Chrysler the only one to pay back 100% of their loans from the Government. *The Old Car Company" still owes 1.6 billion. Is that better Chuckles
got the WD hitch set up....didn't like the feel
got 1 friction sway controller...still didn't like the feel
added another friction sway controller....still didn't like the feel
(We also hated taking the friction bars off and on. What a pain!)
So, we shopped around and bought the add on dual cam and put it on our Husky WD hitch. It took a little doing and some modifications, but now it works great.
The dual cam is engaged at the same time the WD bars are put on. No extra steps, no taking off the bars when backing up, works just fine! Easier and better.
Proud Mom & Dad
3 Sons + 2 Daughters-in-law
1 Daughter + 1 Son-in-law
1 Grandson, 2 Grandaughters
(tent-7yrs, popup-25yrs, hybrid-5yrs, NEW travel trailer)
2012 Sunset Trail 26BH w/all the goodies!
Quote: In my opinion you can mix and match no problem. The effect is additive since the entire assembly they are attached to is rigid and does not flex. Because of that you also need not worry about equalizing the friction effect between the two. If this were not true then any asymmetric setup (read one-sided, single friction bar) setup would be a problem.
I agree 100% with this.
First, you probably have no way of measuring how much friction force is generated be each bar, and second -- it really doesn't matter.
If one bar generates 800# of force and the other generates 1200#, the sway-resisting torque will be essentially the same as with both bars generating 1000#.
Quote: What I was told by Reese was that it is important to make sure you instal the mounting coupler in the same spot on the frame as the other side.
I think that would be correct only if both bars are the same length.
If they are from different vendors it would be good to follow the instructions which pertain to the specific bar.
Quote: I looked high and low but could not find a "left side" friction bar to save my life.
Terryallan wrote: All the same. put it on Tighten down the on/off lever, and good to go.
That's a fairly absolute "GENERAL STATEMENT" w/o any supporting information. I think I will pass on your post for accuracy at this time.
To the OP I would try and mix and match and see how it works. If you are unsatisfied then upgrade the older one to the same brand as the new one.
Larry
Pass all you want. But they are all the same, have the same type of components, A bar with brake pads on each side. Just different names. All another one will do is add more friction. If that is the goal, then it's done.
Terryallan wrote: All the same. put it on Tighten down the on/off lever, and good to go.
That's a fairly absolute "GENERAL STATEMENT" w/o any supporting information. I think I will pass on your post for accuracy at this time.
To the OP I would try and mix and match and see how it works. If you are unsatisfied then upgrade the older one to the same brand as the new one.
Larry
Pass all you want. But they are all the same, have the same type of components, A bar with brake pads on each side. Just different names. All another one will do is add more friction. If that is the goal, then it's done.
The potential differences however slight in the friction material is what I was questioning in your all encompassing statement that they are all the same w/o any qualifiers. Unless you're the design engineer for that particular brand you don't know the composition or performance of the friction pads and I doubt any manufacturer would give you the specs for what they use as the friction material.
RCMAN46 wrote: If you are trying to fix a sway problem it is best to work on why the trailer is swaying and not add more sway control.
I don't actually have a sway problem.
What is in the back of my mind was last fall coming back from a week in a Provincial Park with 90 - 95Km winds from the side almost all the way home! (that's 55 - 60 Mph in English)
Talk about white knuckles! The upside is that I got better gas mileage because I was driving so slow!
The only way to correct that is stay at the campground, which we couldn't do ..... or ... get a bit more sway control. Even so, the same situation again, I'd get a motel nearby and sit it out!
Besides .. I've read here at least 4 times lately where on trailers over 25' you should use 2 friction bars.
Gonna look into the add-on dual cam. Didn't know that existed.
Experience is that which you gain immediately after you actually needed it.
2011 28' Kingsport 28RLS by Gulfstream
2010 Ford F150 Supercrew
Terryallan wrote: All the same. put it on Tighten down the on/off lever, and good to go.
That's a fairly absolute "GENERAL STATEMENT" w/o any supporting information. I think I will pass on your post for accuracy at this time.
To the OP I would try and mix and match and see how it works. If you are unsatisfied then upgrade the older one to the same brand as the new one.
Larry
Pass all you want. But they are all the same, have the same type of components, A bar with brake pads on each side. Just different names. All another one will do is add more friction. If that is the goal, then it's done.
The potential differences however slight in the friction material is what I was questioning in your all encompassing statement that they are all the same w/o any qualifiers. Unless you're the design engineer for that particular brand you don't know the composition or performance of the friction pads and I doubt any manufacturer would give you the specs for what they use as the friction material.
Larry
Get real. it's friction. 2 means more friction than one. Your thinkin too much. Or not at all.
BossCamper wrote: Gonna look into the add-on dual cam. Didn't know that existed.
Its a good idea to look into it.
Reese doesn't manufacture the add on kit any longer, but you can still find some NOS some places on the net. Sometimes on eBay someone will sell a NOS PN 26000 (4 -5 inch frame) or PN 26001 (6 in frame)
I bought mine used off of eBay. I scored the entire kit for $60.00. Had some surface rust but no big deal. I think it's the best $60.00 I have spent on the TT.
There are a few places that sell the kit from NOS.
Here is one, pricey, but you can find them cheaper, or used on Craigslist or Ebay if you are ok with used.
When we bought the trailer, the dealer sold us a complete hitch kit for it, set it up wrong. Had to pay a hitch place to do it right and made the dealer re-imburse me for the setup fee. But that's another story!
It is a Reese Pro Series. The round bars have a sticker on them as follows
"1,000 lb weight distribution, 10,000 lb GTW, 1,000 lb hitch weight - 2 bars"
These bars obviously won't work with dual cam because there is no detent on the ends. Just flat with holes for the chain u-bolts.
I'm wondering now if the hitch is almost too light for the trailer anyways! I haven't gotten a chance to get the actual tongue weight yet, but the trailer info says 880 lb tongue weight.
Will new Reese bars with the detent (likely in the 12,000 GTW range) fit in the hitch head? Can't seem to find any info on the size of the ends.
I'm hoping to not have to buy the whole thing, but just go with new bars and the cam assemblies.
This learning curve for hauling TTs is getting expensive! And I have zero confidence in any advice from the dealer!
Too bad the dealer isn't worth anything more than taking people's money!
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