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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > starting problem

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ahouse54

Castle Rock, CO

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just bought a 97 Bounder model 34k. Bought it from an estate, had not been used much in last 2 years. Has about 25,700 miles. Problem is it will not start. Had bad chassis battery, replaced with 800amp. House batteries have charged up with shore power. Both sets read 12.6 volts. When I turn on disco switches by door I can hear a click from under the dash. When the main is turned on I hear a chirping noise from the dash. Lights, radio and dash lights work when I turn the key. But engine will not start on either main or aux batteries. I don't hear the starter click when I try to start it. But the kicker is that I can hook up my car with jumper cables and start it. Any ideas?

rk911

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

does the engine crank or just nothing?


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rich, n9dko
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I know a guy who's addicted to brake fulid. He says he can stop anytime.
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ahouse54

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:28pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The engine doesn't crank, only when I use jumper cables then it will start.

rk911

Wheaton IL

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:30pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

my first thought is not enough voltage is getting to the starter. you've added a new battery. have you measured voltage at the solonoid and starter?

2inAlabama

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:32pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bad switch?


Just DH & DW


rk911

Wheaton IL

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

well, the key switch must be good else it wouldn't start even with the jump. simple things first. i'd look for loose or corroded wires at the solonoid and starter. then, with the key on and 'cranking' measure the voltage at the solonoid and starter. my guess is there's not enough juice getting to the starter without the jump. something is loose or corroded.

ahouse54

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

no I haven't. It is just about impossible to get to the wiring into the starter. The engine is a 454 with a Banks kit and with the extra heat shields you can't see the wiring. I did pull the starter and had it tested and it is fine. I'm not that familiar with the ignition system in rv's. Any idea where the voltage drop is taking place. Seems like it would have to be after where both the main and aux batteries connect to power line to the starter.

OnaQuest

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It might be the starter relay. The starter relay, actually a small solenoid, is located inside the doghouse cover on the driver side wall, a few inches forward of where your foot would be when on the gas pedal.

The power from the ignition switch first goes to this relay which sends power on to the starter solenoid through larger wires. The starter solenoid then closes to send power to the starter motor through even larger wires. You can imagine what a loose or corroded connection, anywhere along the line, might do to your chances of starting. HERE is a simplified diagram of how it works.

rk911

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:50pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

since the battery is new and the starter tested good then it's got to be a voltage drop due to loose or corroded connections. check the starter relay first and work your way down the line.

bsinmich

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Posted: 04/12/12 07:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OnaQuest wrote:

It might be the starter relay. The starter relay, actually a small solenoid, is located inside the doghouse cover on the driver side wall, a few inches forward of where your foot would be when on the gas pedal.

The power from the ignition switch first goes to this relay which sends power on to the starter solenoid through larger wires. The starter solenoid then closes to send power to the starter motor through even larger wires. You can imagine what a loose or corroded connection, anywhere along the line, might do to your chances of starting. HERE is a simplified diagram of how it works.

A 454 is a Chevy Engine and if the chassis is a '96 or '97 it is the Vortec. I would use a voltmeter and have someone hit the key while you are down underneath checkinig the voltage at the starter and then working your way back until you find the drop in voltage.


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