It's 14 ft lbs not 14 inch lbs. That's what I use on mine with Autolite plugs dry. Changed them at 64K and now have 119K with no problems and I don't worry about anything happening to them.
Denny
yes, not inch, I got the 14 part right I think.
I'm much more comfortable with aluminum heads with steel plug threads with a light touch of anti-sieze. Reports from people doing it both ways though, may just be psychological.
As said before, if you are not comfortable with the job, let someone else do it. It's not rocket science. I did mine in about 2 1/2 hrs.
But then I have done several 5.4's also so I had a little experience. It's not hard just time consuming. Good luck, John
Why the torque is so low...to not strip the alu head threads.
It's so low because Ford uses a tapered seat instead of a compression ring like your GM vehicles do, it's the same system that they have used for years.
Denny
2013 F350 SC DRW 6.2 V8 4.30 gears Air Lifts
2003 HitchHiker Premier 35FKTG 215/75/17.5 Sumitomo tires
I'd have either the dealer or an ASE approved mechanic do it (both should have
insurance to cover their work)
I'm not a Ford guy, but a huge life long DIYer and tackle must anything, even
now as an old guy
Took a look at the Excursion when it first came out and a few times after to check
out. Passed after seeing that the engine was more in the passenger compartment
than in the engine bay...and those last 4 cylinder's plugs
Someone missed it when the V10 design was up for CDR (critical design review)
with the number of threads for the spark plugs in an ALUMINUM head. Well known
to have many times more than what it took for an iron head. Even if an iron
head, 3 threads is barely enough
Why the torque is so low...to not strip the alu head threads.
Not saying a bad engine, just that it has a history of spark plug issues. Some
will say not so, they never have. Others will confirm. I also don't know which
years are the main issues. As there was a 'fix' in the head in subsequent years.
Though, still read that some have plugs blown out in them too
So common that they sell kits to repair corss threaded or blown out threads Summit Racing repair kits
Here are some links to Ford Enthusiasts forums discussion HOW2 do the job yourself
that the OP should read if they are still contemplating a DIY. Pointing this
out to make the OP aware that the torque is CRITICAL and to NOT cross thread
when inserting the plug.
Side note...I generally recommend alu filled anti-seize, but for this
application, say to follow the manual recommendations. A greased
fastener mating surface will have a false torque reading (it will be
much more than a non-greased reading and with such a small margin
(those 3 threads)...over torque too easy and will destroy the head,
which will necessitate the repair kit
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
I have changed mine....01 F350 with a V-10. Took me a little less than 2 hours to do the job. Torque wrench/anti-seize.dielectric grease/combo of extentions for your rachet.Torqued to 13 foot pounds.Use Motorcraft or Autolite plugs. I did the plugs and replaced all the coils at the same time. Have no problems.
Local mechanic who does alot of work on the superdutys did it for me.
$420 for change including plugs and taxes.
Best money I ever spent, I have no interest in contorting myself over that motor to get at the last 2 cylinders.
I am a cheap guy but I also know a good value when needed.
The original plugs also had 115000 miles on them so there was a good chance of breakage. I did not want to have to pay for a tow and the extra expense of the mechanic doing the repair....
Spree 318bhs. Blue Ox Sway Pro WD hitch.
Primary tow vehicle 2008 F350 V10 Crew cab.
Back-up tow vehicle 2005 4Runner V8 Limited.
Why the torque is so low...to not strip the alu head threads.
It's so low because Ford uses a tapered seat instead of a compression ring like your GM vehicles do, it's the same system that they have used for years.
Denny
Again, I'm not a Ford guy, but have been in several discussions over
at my boy racer (GM) forum where a few have both GM and Fords
Have seen posting of both 11ft/lb and 14ft/lb as the Ford recommendation
for V10 spark plugs. IIRC, the 11 ft/lb is for the early versions
After they fix the stripped head plug thread with the various kits.
They all say to go to 28 ft/lbs. Most are ASE certified and two are
master ASE's.
One guy didn't believe and went with the OEM 14 ft/lbs and his plugs
(can't remember how many but more than a couple) backed off. That 28 ft/lbs
fixed or should say he never complained about that again.
These are proper thread lengths for the tapered seal plugs into a
cast iron head
This the proper thread length for the tapered seal plugs into an
aluminum head
A designer can get away with a bit less, but then the margins shrink
quickly
PS...yes know that with tapered seal plugs, that they can be over torqued
Mom's buddy called in a panic when her husband broke all of the
plugs off in her fairly new Mercedes. He is a long longshoremen with
humongo upper body strength.
Easy, as since they broke on the thread side of the taper, just poked
a stubby, flat bladed screw driver to back them out.
It cost me just shy of 500.00 to change plugs and one coil on a 5.4.
The 10 cylinders are worse. Some of them have only three threads holding the plug.
They have to warm the engine up to tem and let it cool down to a specific temp range. Then they break the plugs loose, hopefully not the plug and back them out.
It is simply a terrible design. Aluminum expands and contracts more than iron alloys. Three threads is not enough in iron even.
Every time you heat the engine up and it cools it wants to loosen the plugs also.
The only proper way to mfg an aluminum engine is with anodized aluminum plug inserts and with a lot more thread on both sides than 3. imo
I would not change the plugs myself. Let Ford. If they break it they fix it???? imo
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