Try running all of the stuff right there in camp driveway for a day or two. I showered in ours for a few days to figure out the hows and whys not to mention just plain figuring out how stuff works. Luckily during this driveway time we found a weakness in our 12v system (broken solder weld in the circuitry) that would have literally crippled our Memorial day trip last year as we ran exclusively on 12v the entire week. Consider it a shake down cruise.
Don't forget a Flashlight. If the power goes out or if you need to check on something outside at night you will need one.
Bob
2001 2500 Silverado LS 4x4 6.0, 4.10
2007 Jayco Eagle 288RLS
Cocktails for 6, Dinner for 4, Sleeps 2
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End of dirt road, no signs in sight, sun going down: I am not lost, just getting ready to go camping.
When we picked up our TC, the dealer gave us a starter kit that contain, sewer hose, fresh water hose, TP, tank freshener, and a very nice 30 amp connector.
Make sure you take your PDI checklist and a small flashlight and screwdriver. Try to follow the checklist and try not to rush. It's nice that you're staying overnight as you have time to do a thorough job and have things fixed right away.
2011 Adventurer 910FBS,Torklift tie downs,Fastguns & Wobbl-stopprs
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW 6.7L CTD, 4x4, LB,CC,6 speed auto,3.73 axle, General 17" on/off road
2008 Lund 1825 Explorer Sport,115 Merc,9.9 kicker,Torklift Super Hitch,42" Supertruss
USAF ret E-9&E-7
Excellent recommendations from everyone, but I'll throw in my recommendations as well, having just picked my TH up last month.
Spend TWO nights at dealership or immediate area if you can. One night on full hookups, and one on battery/generator power.
If you have a gas/electric water heater, make sure you use both functions. The electric function on mine doesn't work, but I don't want to go the 70 miles back to the dealer for the repair so far.
As part of your walkthrough have them DEMONSTRATE how to manually retract awnings/slides/etc so you know how to do that in case of a failure, and can at least continue the trip to a dealer/repair shop.
RV/trucker friendly atlas/map/GPS to ensure you are taking the correct routes.
The "starter" kits provided are usually a minimal kit, and will not be worth the space they take up. As mentioned, Wal-mart will be your friend!
Use the FAQ section of the forum for both PDI checklists, and 5th wheel checklists. Some of it is dated, but majority is just as applicable now as when it was written.
If you have a gas/electric water heater, make sure you use both functions. The electric function on mine doesn't work, but I don't want to go the 70 miles back to the dealer for the repair so far.
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I throw this out just in case. I had a friend that told me he loved his new Outback TT...but the water heater didn't work on electric. I have an Outback 5th wheel with the same type of appliances...so I removed the outside panel on his water heater...removed the small safety clip...and turned the outside override switch ON... Turns out his PDI guy never showed him the switch...it comes from the factory secured in the off position. I think it's there to prevent people from burning out their electric element...by turning the heater on with no water in it.
My PDI guy showed me to first use the relief valve tab...to check to see the water heater is full of water...then turn the switch on...you should safety the switch to the off position before you drain the tank for maintenance or winterizing the tank.
You may know this already...of course...and have a different issue. But I throw it out just in case it's an easy fix.
Chocks. Roto-choks or BAL X-chocks, as well as some plastic/rubber ramp chocks. If you buy the BAL X-chocks don't buy them in pairs. Buy them singly, so you get two of the ratcheting tools.
Dogbone adapters. At the mininum, a 50 to 30 amp, and a 20 to 30 amp. If you use a generator, you will need a 30locking to 30 amp.
The 5 gallon bucket. Sounds stupid, but the bucket will come in handy.
A decent cordless drill, and a bit for extending/retracting the stabilizer jacks. If your rig has electric stab jacks, disregard this, but being able to drop all four jacks with a drill is a BIG back-saver.
A lock for the tongue and latch of the trailer. These will ensure the trailer stays put. You can add two long shackle padlocks on the X-chocks if you want.
A multimeter.
A multi-function air compressor.
Jumper cables.
Several long-handled lighters for the stove, assuming it isn't self-lighting.
A good flashlight with a lanyard. This way, you can look down the toilet without worrying about the flashlight flying down there to add to your problems.
A good fire extinguisher.
Don't forget the folding chairs.
Things you might want later on:
Two Honda 2000s with parallel kit and extended run tank. Essential for boondocking. If your toy hauler has an inbuilt generator, take one Honda 2000. This will give you the ability to charge batteries if they are too discharged to start the generator.
Replacement batteries. Some like two 6V deep cycle golf cart batteries. I'm partial to multiple 12V AGM batteries. More expensive, yes, but they don't vent and can take extreme punishments.
There's a cool device called the Trailer Aide...they make two sizes. We always carry ours in the back of the truck for changing tires. Lucky us... only time I've had to use it was for the 12,000 mile inspect, repack, bearings..inspect brakes...maintenance. Works great.
I'm guessing your toy hauler is a 50 amp system... So the adapter you may need is a 30 amp male to 50 amp female. It will allow you to connect if they don't have enough 50 amp sites...won't run everything...but you'll have the same things we 30 amp campers are limited to. Our starter kit included a 20 amp male to 30 amp female.. You can use than in conjunction with the other adapter to run the converter..use 12v lights...and some low amp systems. Not the 15k BTU ac unit...
At home...if you don't have electricity at your storage spot..make sure to have a battery disconnect...otherwise parasitic loads will drain the battery in storage
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2 Boys UW & Bellevue College
