bogen2

Edmonton

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I am installing some #8 wire and am wondering what the best way to join 2 pieces together. Normally I would just do a butt splice with solder with a smaller gauge and with the heavy stuff for the batteries I've used terminal posts. This wire will connect my converter to the new battery terminal I've installed for my solar installation.
The existing wire just uses a wire nut to connect. I need to make 2 joins: to the pigtail from the converter on one end and the fuse (also #8) at the terminal block.
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Matt_Colie

Southeast Michigan

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I guess I am not sure what the issue is here. I don't like wire nuts that are out in weather, but other then that....
Are you talking about putting terminals on the cables you are adding?
If that is the case, find a friendly truck garage and ask if they can stake terminals of that size.
Or there is always McMaster Carr this page, look at the entire page
I have used these in places where I want the entire system to be field serviceable.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dog going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
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chuggs

Florida

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I've used the set screw butt joint devices...they usually come packaged with a piece of shrink wrap...that would be my recommendation. Slide the shrink wrap over one of the wires...strip the end...insert into the connector...tighten the set screw securely. Repeat the other wire... Slide the shrink wrap over the connector and heat it evenly til sealed.
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Crazy Ray

Monroe,La

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Go to HD get what is called Splicer Reducer there in electral department. JMO
RET ARMY 1980, DW Donna , "Tiny" (furkid) . Class A, 2007 Bounder 35E, Ford Chassis, 4 SAMS 6VOLTS,405W Solar,TriStar 45 Controller,1750W INVERTER, YAMAHA 2400, TOW: Honda CRV. READY BRAKE. "Living Our Dream". NASCAR FAN 14,18,20,11 LOVE CO & NM
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hershey

Albuquerque,(fulltime) NM, USA

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chuggs wrote: I've used the set screw butt joint devices...they usually come packaged with a piece of shrink wrap...that would be my recommendation. Slide the shrink wrap over one of the wires...strip the end...insert into the connector...tighten the set screw securely. Repeat the other wire... Slide the shrink wrap over the connector and heat it evenly til sealed.
This is available at Lowes. It works very well and the shrink tubing also has a glue that makes the joint weatherproof.
hershey - albuquerque, nm
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smkettner

Southern California

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http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Items/gim-3........heat%20shrink%20butt%20splice%20-%2010pk
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Kalabin

Alaska

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I know this is over kill but we use H-Tap and C-Taps a lot at work for power distribution. Typical Scenario is coming from a battery distribution with 2AWG or larger, then H-Tapping the 2AWG to 4AWG or 6 AWG depending on the need. It's a permanent splice. Only down side is you need the crimper to do it!
If your wanting something more "professional" take a look at Thomas-betts website.
Otherwise I would just go with a simple #8 to #8 Butt-Splice with heat shrink and call it a day. You should be able to go to any electrical supply house and pick up a few of these. Thomas and Betts #8 (Red) Butt Splice
My personal opinion is to not go with a reversible splice. Especially if it's in an environment where it can move around. We have cabinets we build out that have lots of DC power connections, and per the vendors it's set screw / compression fittings. We almost "always" end up having to go out to the physical site after the DLC site has been placed and tighten up lugs. Go with a non-reversible mechanical splice and you never have to look at it again.
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SCVJeff

Santa Clarita, CA.

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hershey wrote: chuggs wrote: I've used the set screw butt joint devices...they usually come packaged with a piece of shrink wrap...that would be my recommendation. Slide the shrink wrap over one of the wires...strip the end...insert into the connector...tighten the set screw securely. Repeat the other wire... Slide the shrink wrap over the connector and heat it evenly til sealed.
This is available at Lowes. It works very well and the shrink tubing also has a glue that makes the joint weatherproof. x3
I keep a full set to splice the #6 around the surge guard if ever need be.
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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kneal44

EAST CENTRAL TEXAS

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i dident have a crimper but used bare metal crimp splices ..squeezedwith vice grips and soldered using small torch... taped and good to go. very good connection.
and put into high current service.... touched connection to see if it got any warmer then rest of cable... to make sure connectin was a good one.
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CJW8

Arizona

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I have used these in many places in my job and on my RV also. I used them on my roof to eliminate a junction box to parallel my solar panels to the single #4 downcommer. This saves additional holes in the roof to mount the junction box. As mentioned above, they can be found at HD or Lowes. They come in various sizes and as reducers also. The reducers are handy for reducing large cable to smaller wire to fit into solar charge controllers.
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