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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Long/Heavy TT owners and towing

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davisenvy

Franklin, NC

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Posted: 04/18/12 08:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'll have the new Bilstein shocks on this weekend. I'm now trying to decide between the Reese Dual Cam Trunion 1,500lb bars and the Equalizer 1,400. Is the Reese really worth the extra money. It also seems that the Equalizer is easier to install and adjust. I'm not trying to open up another "which is better" post, but if they are very close in performance I may go with the Equalizer.

I will most definitely post my results, especially after all of the help that I have received from the forum.

Thanks


2007 GMC Sierra Classic 2500HD SLT,4x4,Crew, Duramax
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323bhs

APT

SE Michigan

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Posted: 04/18/12 08:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

They both perform great. I chose the Reese only because of the reports of loud driving at low speed turns, like campgrounds.


A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2012 VW Passat TDI

jerem0621

Sequatchie, TN

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Posted: 04/18/12 08:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I feel that the Dual-Cam is worth the extra effort to set up over the Equal-I-zer type hitches. (Husky and Reese have versions similar to Equal-I-zer in function.)

For me, I like the proactive approach that the Dual-Cam takes to preventing and correcting a sway event. If sway happens Due to a blow out or something physically hits the trailer the Dual-Cam is going to work by increasing force to return the trailer to center.

IMHO this gives the driver more control.

Equal-I-zer is a high friction hitch and still works on principal of sliding friction action to tighten the connection between the TT and the TV.

Dual-Cam works with friction too, but the forces are applied proactively to return the trailer to center.

Now that's not to say that Equal-I-zer is bad. It is defiantly not bad and users here report awesome results. However, a properly set up standard WD hitch with dual friction sway control is not bad either. IMHO the Equal-I-zer type hitches integrate the friction bars into the hitch and the principal in my mind is about the same.

For me it's Dual-Cam for my reasoning stated above.

Dual Cam must be set up properly but it is not hard to do. Just takes some time to understand.

Thanks and good luck no matter what you decide.

Jeremiah


TT: 1995 Layton 2910
Tow Vehicle: 1999 F-350, v10, 2wd, Crew Cab, Dually
Hitch: Draw-Tite Trunnion WD Hitch
Sway Control: Valley dual friction sway control
Brake Control: Tekonsha Voyager

"It's Kind of Fun To Do The Impossible"
~Walt Disney~


jmtandem

western nevada

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Posted: 04/18/12 10:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

but if they are very close in performance I may go with the Equalizer.



Get the Reese. I have used an Equalizer from Progressive Mfg. and have been less than impressed with the constant maintenance it requires with bolts loosening up at the L brackets. I understand there has been very recently a newer design for the L brackets. If you go with the Equalizer be sure to get the newer design. If you want a similar hitch Husky makes the Centerline, supposedly an improved version of the WD and sway principles used in the Equalizer. You might look into that hitch as well. The Reese takes a little more to get dialed but when it is just right it tows nicely. It is also important to understand that with a hitch like the Equalizer it is almost necessary to have an electric tongue jack. If you add that to the cost of the Equalizer hitch it is perhaps no longer that much less expensive.


'05 Dodge Cummins 4x4 dually 3500 white quadcab auto long bed.
'09 299bhs Tango.

davisenvy

Franklin, NC

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Posted: 04/18/12 11:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

New shocks, drop shank, and Reese 1,500lb Straight line trunion with Dual Cam have been ordered. I'll report back once all is installed. Thanks for all of the help.

Bonefish

Midland, TX

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Posted: 04/18/12 12:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

davisenvy wrote:

When I hit bridges and dips in the road I rock back and forth several times before the rig settles back down. There is some sway, but not enough to have me overly worried. It kinda feels like the TT is driving my TV.
My question is, is all this normal for pulling a big TT?


You say it doesn’t have much sway and what you describe called bucking or rocking! Causes are BAD SHOCKS, WEAK OR A BROKEN SPRING on the tow vehicle or TT, and IMPROPER HITCH SETUP, TOO WEAK of WD springs, miss alignment, etc. It sounds like you might have a number of thing working against you and are correctable. Get off here and take it to as someone suggested Franklin Hitches who has been in business for a long time (anywhere but Camping World). A good local company can diagnose the problem and get you rolling.





rode2nowhere

southern indiana

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Joined: 02/02/2011

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Posted: 04/18/12 05:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have never had to do any maintenance to my equalizer hitch, very happy with it!

davisenvy

Franklin, NC

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Posted: 04/18/12 05:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bonefish wrote:

davisenvy wrote:

When I hit bridges and dips in the road I rock back and forth several times before the rig settles back down. There is some sway, but not enough to have me overly worried. It kinda feels like the TT is driving my TV.
My question is, is all this normal for pulling a big TT?


You say it doesn’t have much sway and what you describe called bucking or rocking! Causes are BAD SHOCKS, WEAK OR A BROKEN SPRING on the tow vehicle or TT, and IMPROPER HITCH SETUP, TOO WEAK of WD springs, miss alignment, etc. It sounds like you might have a number of thing working against you and are correctable. Get off here and take it to as someone suggested Franklin Hitches who has been in business for a long time (anywhere but Camping World). A good local company can diagnose the problem and get you rolling.


I live in Franklin NC, not Franklin TN. I'm in a small hick town in Applachian Mountains. I'll get someone to help with the installation. I'll get off here once my parts come in. Until then I'll keep gathering info from the posts.

* This post was edited 04/18/12 06:13pm by davisenvy *

LIKE2BUILD

Mt. Zion, IL

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Posted: 04/18/12 10:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Step 1 is to replace your receiver. Your GMT 800 truck uses a poorly designed receiver that is prone to flexing. The excessive bouncing you feel is due to it flexing under the strain of the WD hitch. My '04 had the exact same receiver as your truck and I had all kinds of see saw action pulling my 34' TT when I went over bridges ans RR tracks. I installed a Curt magnum V receiver and adjusted the WD hitch and the bouncing was gone.

KJ


'02 Jayco Qwest 324G
'04 Chevy 2500HD CrewCab |6.0L|2X4|4.10:1 | Eaton Posi-Trac
Curt MagnumV receiver
Eaz-Lift Hitch with Reese Dual Cam
2000 Crownline 205BR
'96 Polaris SLT780 PWC
'94 Polaris SLT750 PWC
3 Wonderful Sons (12, 6, & 4)
1 forgiving wife!!!


502_Jimmy

Richmond VA

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Posted: 04/19/12 05:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LIKE2BUILD wrote:

Step 1 is to replace your receiver. Your GMT 800 truck uses a poorly designed receiver that is prone to flexing. The excessive bouncing you feel is due to it flexing under the strain of the WD hitch. My '04 had the exact same receiver as your truck and I had all kinds of see saw action pulling my 34' TT when I went over bridges ans RR tracks. I installed a Curt magnum V receiver and adjusted the WD hitch and the bouncing was gone.

KJ


It looks like he already did that.. I saw a post on page 1 about a new Draw-Tite reciever rated for 15klbs or so...

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