I've used the for 6 or 7 years the Lynx Leveler System. I've never seen or heard from an actual person who had them fail. And with the terrific customer support you get from the Tri-Lynx guys...lets just say they'll take care of any issues anyway! And the wheel stop-n-chocks are awesome! The blocks have a carry/storage bag for easy stowing. The levelers are 1" tall, so when your level bubble shows you you are 3 inches off level...you drive up on 3 of the stacking levelers on that side. With wood it's trial and error.
And it's not like wood doesn't split, crack, break, cause slivers, attract black widows and fail!
My posts shouldn't be taken for factual data. They are purely fictional, for entertainment purposes and should not be constituted as actually related to scientific, technical, engineering, legal, spiritual or practical advice. Amen.
unhook, ... pull out from under, ... hit auto level button, ... go about connecting water / ele / sewer. press buttons on remote control to open slides and awning, hit button to zoom in on satalite, turn on water heater and fill/turn on icemaker, get blender ready ;0)
AAAAAHHHHhhhh Margaritaville!!!!
2012 Cedar Creek 36 RE Touring ED, all avail options
2011 GMC 2500 HD Denali DMax 4wd Superglide firestone bags
95' Procraft V-180-C 120HP OB, 80# cust TM, side/down image sonar
Don and Rosie, Annie the wonder Dog clicky to our photobook album
I use boards cut with a 45° on the ends and cut so they will fit between the front and back wheel. I can raise a side of my fiver by backing onto two of my boards (one behind each wheel). To go up another level I put two boards in front of both tires(with the 45°bevels turned so that the bottom boards mesh together)and drive up, thus putting two boards under the wheel. It is very fast, easy and efficient. I seldom have to go more than two boards high, but by going back and forth I can easily go up three board thickness.
Most people use 8 inch boards, but an 8 inch board is actually 7.25 inches wide and the tread on my tires is 7 inches wide. This doesn't leave much room for error, as I like all the tread to be on the board. So I use 10 inch wide boards.
'05' F-250 Power Stroke
'00' 30' Cameo Fifth Wheel
texas_train wrote: unhook, ... pull out from under, ... hit auto level button, ... go about connecting water / ele / sewer. press buttons on remote control to open slides and awning, hit button to zoom in on satalite, turn on water heater and fill/turn on icemaker, get blender ready ;0)
AAAAAHHHHhhhh Margaritaville!!!!
Boo, boo...Not fair! LOL!!! Thats the real way to go, but.....are we still camping?
'04 Dodge 2500 QC 4x4 w/CTD
'03 Hitchhiker II 31RLBG
I have two 2x10 boards. Each has a 45 degree cut at the end. One board is long enough to fit under both tires. The other board is about a foot longer. I also used a 3/4 inch wood boring bit to put a hole thru each board so a 3/4 inch dowel can go thru from top to bottom. That is to keep the boards from sliding out of position as I drive or back onto them.
I have yet to use them. I have only been at 2 CG sites that were unlevel. Neither one was so bad I wanted to use them.
I use the plastic blocks under the front landing gear (2 blocks each) and under the rear stabilizers (3 blocks each). IIRC, the blocks say use a minimum of 2 each.
2011 GMC 3500 Dually
New to me 2006 Jayco Designer 38RDQS
2 Boxers and a Maine Coon
I've used everything from wood to plastic blocks to air bags. Lately I use a cut up stall mat. It's rubber and I cut it wide enought and long enough to have a margin of error. Yes, they are only 3/4 " thick, but I generally do not need more than one or two. The most I've used is 3. I got 5 cuts from the mat bought at the feed store. They stay in the back of the pickup and the rain and weather won't hurt them. They are also easier for my wife to handle when she wants to help.
Not saying this is "The" method, but just another way of doing it for someone looking at all alternatives.
River Canyon, 34RLQSO
F-350 DRW King Ranch, 4.10LS
Trailair pinbox & suspension
USN & 'Nam Vet
I'm with Texas Train on this. Un-hook, push the "auto-level" button, give it 2 minutes, grab the remote and open the slides, water, cable, power, and we're done. 10 minutes from un-hook to done. And the terminology has changed, at least for us: RV'ing. Camping involves a tent, sleeping bag, trips to the "outhouse". and cooking over the fire. Don't get me wrong, we still cook over the fire, WHEN WE WANT TO.
[blue]2004.5 Dodge 3500 DRW QC, 4x4 LB, CTD 600 ,auto,w4.10 ,PAC Brake, Prodigy, : 2012 Cedar Creek 36 CKTS (loaded). Mrs Greentow & Missy & Maggie, Shih Tzu's with an attitude. USA(R). 30+ years in the Fire/EMS service. CCRVOC #29, GS Life member:B
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
texas_train wrote: unhook, ... pull out from under, ... hit auto level button, ... go about connecting water / ele / sewer. press buttons on remote control to open slides and awning, hit button to zoom in on satalite, turn on water heater and fill/turn on icemaker, get blender ready ;0)
x2. I used to laugh at the guys with all the gadgets such as leveling systems. Now I laugh at my self for being a slave to gadgets
* This post was
edited 04/15/12 04:49pm by garysol *
2008 Dodge Ram 3500 6.7 CTD SRW, Pullrite Superglide 18k.
2012 Komfort 3530fbh 5th wheel with Ground Control
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