MadMav wrote: Water pump will not pump water unless the water heater is in normal config(non-winterized).
Mine does. I have two valves: one for water heater bypass and one for winterize. Pump works with former engaged but not the latter.
You really turn them both(bypass valves) off/on at the same time. That's what I said/meant.
To have the label backwards on the OPs trailer caused the confusion. Glad it was found.
Mav
Yes, I'm glad the OP solved his problem.
However, there have been many times that I do NOT operate the bypass and winterize valves at the same time. I'm quite prepared to risk my fresh water freezing in the holding tank but not in the hot water tank. In really cold weather, I winterize all fresh water tanks and lines, but don't worry much about the black and grey tanks; in moderate cold weather, I drain the hot water tank but use my fresh water tanks.
You are confusing me on this. There are two bypass valves usually for the water heater and a seperate winterizing port/valve. I don't use the winterize, but do use both bypasses while winterizing.
Mav
Sorry for the confusion - I was just trying to say that there are occasions to bypass the water heater without winterizing the entire fresh water system.
There are lots of different ways to connect the plumbing.
My current RV has ONE lever to bypass the hot water heater. My old rv had THREE - 1) cold water inlet shutoff 2) hot water outlet shutoff (some RVs use a check valve for this one) 3) bypass shutoff (ON when heater bypassed, OFF when not bypassed).
Both my old and new have ONE winterizing lever - in one position it draws from the fresh water tank and in the other position it draws from the antifreeze fill line.
joebedford wrote: Sorry for the confusion - I was just trying to say that there are occasions to bypass the water heater without winterizing the entire fresh water system.
This is quite true!
Mav
"A fifth wheel trailer is a bi-level towable mobile home."
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