pressure switch is fine - it runs when there is no pressure, and shuts off if there is (city pressure). Sounds like either the inlet line from the tank is blocked (hard to pump vaccum), or it (the pump) is sucking air - either from the line to the tank (how long does it take to prime?), or a leak in the suction line letting air in.
There have been other posts here about clamps being loose letting the pump suction air into the lines and not pumping water out. Go to each and every clamp and tighten them up and you may solve your problem.
I hope this helps....
Jim
RV:2012 Montana 3625RE Quad Slide SKP#108921 TV:2004.5 Dodge Dually 3500 HD Favorite Quote:''Life's tough, pilgrim, and it's even tougher if you're stupid.''-- John Wayne
Fixed it. I took the pump out and apart and everything looked good. Bench tested it and it drew a suction. Put it back in and same problem. I started turning valves. Put the "winterize" valve in the ON position, the pump began to suck water and ran good. Maybe I understand valve labeling different from Keystone, but I would think that "winterize" ON would be the position to winterize the plumbing, not normal use.
Did I mention the owner's manual was useless in information.
Anyway, now I can sanitize the thing.
Thanks for all the help here. I am going to check the tightness of connections since the panels are off.
MadMav wrote: Water pump will not pump water unless the water heater is in normal config(non-winterized).
Mine does. I have two valves: one for water heater bypass and one for winterize. Pump works with former engaged but not the latter.
You really turn them both(bypass valves) off/on at the same time. That's what I said/meant.
To have the label backwards on the OPs trailer caused the confusion. Glad it was found.
Mav
Yes, I'm glad the OP solved his problem.
However, there have been many times that I do NOT operate the bypass and winterize valves at the same time. I'm quite prepared to risk my fresh water freezing in the holding tank but not in the hot water tank. In really cold weather, I winterize all fresh water tanks and lines, but don't worry much about the black and grey tanks; in moderate cold weather, I drain the hot water tank but use my fresh water tanks.
Good Job tracking the problem down. The manual in my Keystone isn't of much use either. It's a book for everything they make I believe, and doesn't list anything specific like where the valves, pumps switches or anything else happens to be. To make it even worse, what labels there are, often aren't correct. They didn't even get the labels right on the Black and Gray tanks even though it's the type where the valves are right out in the open and you reach down and manually slide the valve. I guess they just like making it a game to find out where things are, and how they work.
Searching_Ut wrote: Good Job tracking the problem down. The manual in my Keystone isn't of much use either. It's a book for everything they make I believe, and doesn't list anything specific like where the valves, pumps switches or anything else happens to be. To make it even worse, what labels there are, often aren't correct. They didn't even get the labels right on the Black and Gray tanks even though it's the type where the valves are right out in the open and you reach down and manually slide the valve. I guess they just like making it a game to find out where things are, and how they work.
Mine has a sewer hose compartment below the water service area that has pull levers for the black and grey tanks plus there is a smaller grey drain coming from the middle of the trailer that "T's" into the drain pipe just before the sewer hose connection. The under carriage is insulated so not sure if there are 2 grey tanks. Maybe 1 for the kitchen sink and the other for the bath??
MadMav wrote: Water pump will not pump water unless the water heater is in normal config(non-winterized).
Mine does. I have two valves: one for water heater bypass and one for winterize. Pump works with former engaged but not the latter.
You really turn them both(bypass valves) off/on at the same time. That's what I said/meant.
To have the label backwards on the OPs trailer caused the confusion. Glad it was found.
Mav
Yes, I'm glad the OP solved his problem.
However, there have been many times that I do NOT operate the bypass and winterize valves at the same time. I'm quite prepared to risk my fresh water freezing in the holding tank but not in the hot water tank. In really cold weather, I winterize all fresh water tanks and lines, but don't worry much about the black and grey tanks; in moderate cold weather, I drain the hot water tank but use my fresh water tanks.
You are confusing me on this. There are two bypass valves usually for the water heater and a seperate winterizing port/valve. I don't use the winterize, but do use both bypasses while winterizing.
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