I guess at this point you can at least say that you'll know what you have when you're done... Still wrong that it would be sold that way
Current Rig: 2011 Salem 29QBDS Towed with a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500.
Past RV's:
08 Jayco 30BHS, 02 Dutchmen 30FK, 77 Coachmen Leprechaun MMH
Past TV's:
06 Ford F-350 Diesel 4x4,02 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4,01 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 94 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4
He said he didnt know anything about it. (go figure). I told him it was obvious he knew considering the placement of the floor mat. Should have known when he said he was a christian man to RUN!!!!
I tried to get a lawyer and hit him with a lawsuit but I couldnt find one that wanted to take it on.
When the floor on my Jayco rotted you couldn't see it but when they took it back to Indiana to change the floor they found that when they lifted the box off the floor the right side had to be replaced too. Thank God for Jayco repairing it a year after it was out of warranty. If I'm not mistaken you take the trim off the bottom edge of the trailer and remove the screws, then it looks like there might be some screws through the outer edge of the bottom that are caulked over that you'll have to remove, plus unscrew the cabinets, plumbing, wiring, tanks and walls from the floor then you should be able to lift the box and slide a new piece of flooring under the walls. If I'm wrong somebody correct me, I have never done this but I thought I was until Jayco stepped in. I've seen where this was done with hyd. jacks and jack stands, but they had too feplace the whole floor, I hope you don't have that much damage. GOOD LUCK!
Tom, Kathy, Nikki, & Kelly
Pets: Lady - Texas Heeler, Dinger - Rhodesian Riidgeback Mix
2008 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4 ci 3.73 gears
2008 Dodge Ram SLT Big Horn 4x4 5.7L Hemi 3.92 gears
2007 Jayco Jayfeather EXP 254
Husky W/D, P-3
I got a chunk taken out last night and the 2x4 directly under the wall is rotted to peices from the door all the way to the front corner. What is the best / easiest way to go about fixing this?
Many are "re-building" their water damaged RV's, I started w/ a TC and am now 6months into our TT.
My time and $$ have been the limiting factors on how long it has taken.
that and We've changed plans a few times
I've finished the floors and believe "MOST" are assembled the same....
the floor is on the frame and full width, then the walls are placed on top, screwed from the top, lag bolted from the bottom and where the frame supports the wall, a carriage bolt through all layers.
there are some floor shots in the middle pages 3,4,5???
as a previous poster stated keep you wallet in check it is VERY easy to do a FULL REBUILD.
Unless you PLAN on going the distance, just fix what you can see for getting the, or be prepared for a lot of time and $$ if you go looking for more.
Get us some pics would ya......
Repo
05 Tundra 4x4
1976' SIX PAC, cut to size and function.
$800 1977' Road Ranger, not yet road worthy (AUG '11')
The repair guy at the local Rv store told me to replace the 2x's in the floor the plywood and then do the 2x's under the the walls last from the bottom side.
This is a classic case of why we bought our two last RV's brand new off the lot. We too were sold a used RV with assorted problems and leaks. It was our very first TT, we were green and we were really taken by this man with a bible prominently displayed on his coffee table. He had the little Sunline TT for awhile so had to know all the issues it had. Now I don't trust anyone. I'd rather pay more and buy new.
The top clean white 2x2 is the bottom of wall framing.
The middle the crappy particle board they used in 77.
Then the bottom 2x2 framing
Replace bottom of wall 2x2 as needed, seems like if it just marginal it is good enough because getting into the wall is 1 more huge step.
IF the bottom framing can be replaced do it if not slam some good wood in the hole where the bad came out then place another along side it, then glue and screw.
For me I did this because I was worried about the patched wood causing failure at those spots so doubling them up seems like the then to do.
Then build floor supports,
Add 3/4 ply with some GOOD flexible sub-floor adhesive, I used liq nails, for the first section, when I removed an oops, it fractured at the glue, thus to me, a poor joining had occurred????
For me if I can push a screw driver into the wood easily, it gets replaced.
You have a good project there,It won't be hard just time consuming, post some pics of the rest of your new TT.
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