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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > will w/d need adjustment w/ new truck of same make & model?

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trailernovice

Mission TX

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Posted: 04/17/12 07:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Trading TV's...crashed :-(
Anyway, here's my question
Now have signature truck...new one will be another Tundra, with the same motor, equipped virtually identically to what we have now (did deal today)...the Tundra's have had no significant changes from '10 to the current model year

W/D setup was adjusted for current truck...as the new one will be identical in all respects except color, I assume the w/d will not need adjustment...however, want to get opinions from those wiser and more experienced than myself before hitting the road with TT hooked up to the new one
thanks


Glenn and Toni
2011 Palomino Puma 25BH
2012 Tundra double cab 4.6 V8 with tow package
Reese round bar w/d with sway control


fla-gypsy

North Florida

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Posted: 04/17/12 07:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Probably will be OK but you will not know until you hook it up. It doesn't take much to change the towing attitude of a trailer.


09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10(The Black Pearl)
06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The Cracker Cabana)

APT

SE Michigan

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Posted: 04/18/12 05:55am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

$2k seems like a lot for a price delta. Bummer. I agree with Jeremy, more power is better and the running costs are negligible.


A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2012 VW Passat TDI

jerem0621

Sequatchie, TN

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Posted: 04/17/12 10:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

trailernovice wrote:

Trading TV's...crashed :-(
Anyway, here's my question
Now have signature truck...new one will be another Tundra, with the same motor, equipped virtually identically to what we have now (did deal today)...the Tundra's have had no significant changes from '10 to the current model year

W/D setup was adjusted for current truck...as the new one will be identical in all respects except color, I assume the w/d will not need adjustment...however, want to get opinions from those wiser and more experienced than myself before hitting the road with TT hooked up to the new one
thanks


It really depends, depends on the individual truck. It may or may not, just depends on the measurements.

It should be ok, but I would double check everything just to make sure.

One questions,

You got a do-over on your truck, why didn't you go with the 5.7? (Honest question here, I am hunting for a newer tow vehicle, and the smaller V8 didn't even come into my research, is it good? must be because you are on #2)

Thanks!


TT: 1995 Layton 2910
Tow Vehicle: 1999 F-350, v10, 2wd, Crew Cab, Dually
Hitch: Draw-Tite Trunnion WD Hitch
Sway Control: Valley dual friction sway control
Brake Control: Tekonsha Voyager

"It's Kind of Fun To Do The Impossible"
~Walt Disney~


trailernovice

Mission TX

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Posted: 04/17/12 10:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jerem? re. 4.6 v. 5.7 toyota engine? they're mechanically similar...my understanding is the block and most components are the same, with the 5.7 having a longer stroke and/or bigger bore (forgot which)...been perfectly satisfied with the 4.6 on our rig, which is just a bit smaller than what you pull....as to preference? truth to tell, at some point it comes down to money...there's about a $2K or more price differential, from what i've seen, between a truck with the smaller engine and a comparably equipped truck with the bigger engine...
4.6 meets all our present needs (been pulling signature TT with a 4.6 tundra for a while now), have no anticipation of getting a heavier TT (this one, with a bedroom for us, and double bunks with our son on bottom and 'stuff' stored on top, is perfect)....see no need to spend the dollars for the more powerful engine
=====================
on edit...i forgot--apparently, one reason for the higher cost of the 5.7 is that all those trucks get a fancy '5.7 I-FORCE' plaque on the side whereas our measly lil' 4.6 doesn't get any plaque at all

jerem0621

Sequatchie, TN

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Posted: 04/17/12 10:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

trailernovice wrote:

jerem? re. 4.6 v. 5.7 toyota engine? they're mechanically similar...my understanding is the block and most components are the same, with the 5.7 having a longer stroke and/or bigger bore (forgot which)...been perfectly satisfied with the 4.6 on our rig, which is just a bit smaller than what you pull....as to preference? truth to tell, at some point it comes down to money...there's about a $2K or more price differential, from what i've seen, between a truck with the smaller engine and a comparably equipped truck with the bigger engine...
4.6 meets all our present needs (been pulling signature TT with a 4.6 tundra for a while now), have no anticipation of getting a heavier TT (this one, with a bedroom for us, and double bunks with our son on bottom and 'stuff' stored on top, is perfect)....see no need to spend the dollars for the more powerful engine
=====================
on edit...i forgot--apparently, one reason for the higher cost of the 5.7 is that all those trucks get a fancy '5.7 I-FORCE' plaque on the side whereas our measly lil' 4.6 doesn't get any plaque at all



Thanks for the quick response.

I went and checked out the specs after my initial question, the 4.6 has about 90 more HP or so and about the same torque as my old 5.4.

As a matter of fact, the V6 makes more HP and about 60 fewer lb/ft torque. LOL.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

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Posted: 04/18/12 08:27am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would check the hitch height with the new truck and see that the trailer is towing level. If not, adjust the ball height. Also check the attitude of the new truck (nose-down, nose-up) and compare to the old truck. If similar, tow with it and see how it goes.


05E350 6.0PSD
97F350DRW 7.3PSD 4x4 4.10 11' flatbed
98Ranger
69Bronco ATC250R CR500
20' BigTex flatbed carhauler
Callen Camper

92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6
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HD Springs Bilsteins,
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4.56's & LockRite rear

BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 04/18/12 11:38am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ANY TIME you change TV and/or TT, redo the WD Hitch system

Even though 'you' think that there are no changes, there might be and then there
are manufacturing tolerances (differences) that make or can make a difference in
the setup

I also recheck the setups each time and even during a trip. To me, can't be
too careful, but that's me


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Bob Landry

Austin, texas

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Posted: 04/20/12 05:58am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

$2K is not an unresonable price difference for a 5.7L. While the 4.6 and 5.7 may be mechanically similar(Aren't they all) the difference in the two motors is night and day. My 4.6L struggled with a 5K lb trailer and I traded up. The bigger motor also opens the option of abigger trailer in the future.


2011 Tundra 5.7L
2011 Keystone Outback 277RL

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