I own a 99 1/2 F-350 7.3 CC 2WD dually, no mods. I mention the '1/2' because it has some significance. What that is, I don't remember. Aside from research, I didn't know squat about auto repairs, much less diesel. And I still don't. With that disclaimer, read on if you desire.
Bought it with 39k miles in 04 for $22,000. Added Rancho 9000 shocks and Ride-Rite airbags. Mounted a 3,280 lb. dry weight Lance 1121 TC in the bed. The combo has served me well in the extended travel over the past 8 years, 2 of which have been as a full timer. I drive between 55 and 65 mph and have, while loaded, consistently seen between 12-13.5 mpg in the mountains and flats over the years.
Today, I have 244,000 mi. on the truck. The weak link, the transmission, failed at 157k mi. Cost about 2 grand to rebuild it stronger. Had to replace a wiring harness on the left side in 07 due to corrosion (northern winter driving). Aside from the expected tranny issue and that one unusual problem, it has been regular maintenance, plus tires, batteries and belts. I carry an extra fuel filter and CPS in the glove box and know how to change them, along with the air filter and serpentine belt. That's about it with regards to my mechanical abilities. I have towing insurance.
I've slowed down considerably the past two years due to health issues, although I still average 18k miles a year. I retire @ 65 next year and plan to continue f/t-ing in a 32'-34' 5er. Want to see places visited that were interrupted by work or inclimate weather, as well as new ones. While we both are looking a little long in the tooth, I believe if I stay within the specs, the 7.3 will outlast me as long as I throw parts at it when needed.
Owning an 01 for 10 years, great truck, hell a trusted friend. Great info here, a couple of clarifications. The powder metal rods are fine for stock or low power chips. The change to Motorcraft Gold coolant in 02 iirc is what eliminated the Coolant additive. If you change to that coolant none of them need the additive.
Which truck do you like best? If they are autos a trip to a trusted tranny shop for peek in the pan is money well spent as it is the weak link.
Mark, Cathy and Zoey (aka The Golden Missle)
2011 F350 CCSB 6.7 (aka Frosty)
2011 Cyclone 2812 (aka The Little Guy)
Lasher Sport ATH
Lasher Sport BTX
Until the 02 year 7.3 the diesel engine had a caviation problem and needed FW-15 or 16 to be added every 15K miles to the antifreeze. Just for information.
I must have missed something then. I had the 6 speed manual 7.3L with a 4.73 rear end. In 95,000 miles I never changed the anti-freeze and never added anything and never had any problems. I towed my 32 ft 5Ver full timing with it so it was used hard.
2013 Monaco Monarch
2012 Jeep Wrangler
AC6CV, ex-WN8RUR, ex-W8RUR, ex-K7RIO, ex-WB6GBR since 1954
Commercial 1st class Radio Telephone, & Telegraph certificate
ARRL 35 WPM Certificate.
Ford manual shows what I said is correct. FW-15 every 15K miles added to the radiator and then it changed to fw-16. You are not alone because most PSD owners were so suprised they didn't know this information and I have been thanked by some for giving them the information to go and check the ford dealer and came back with it added. just information to help.
PS as was said above it changed in 02 with the new coolant
2001 35 ft avalon alpenlite RK
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
trailair center point suspension
JT Strong Arm Stabilizers
KSH 55 inbed fuel tank
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
I only traded my 2000 7.3 because it was 2 wheel drive and I needed a 4WD vehicle. Never an oil consumption problem and never a radiator leaking problem. In 95,000 miles, except for lube and oil changes that I did myself, a air conditioner hose was replaced on warranty at 30,000 miles. The only down side was the 9 mpg fuel consumption towing or not because of the 4.73 rear axle.
Look in the valley of the motor and see if you see any oil. There are a few seals that a known for letting go. I would get the 02 and 17k isn't bad for that low of miles. If its a auto get a 6.0 tranny cooler for it and you will be good to go. The rods only matter if you building the motor for more than 400hp. I loved my 01 PSD and wish I still had since it would be paid off.