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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

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Goldencrazy

madison wi

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Posted: 04/19/12 03:56pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It seems they understood you would need the repairs asap so they began and gave an estimate that appears to be ballpark for people who know so good for them. I do appreciate quick attention when traveling and will pay premium to not have to wait. I have made a number of 50 dollar contributions to the coffee fund when they got me back on the road quickly. Those were the deadline days. Hope to never have to worry about those deadlines again or be broken down and in need of service while on the road.

Jim@HiTek

Gresham, OR, USA

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Posted: 04/19/12 04:08pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sjholt wrote:

It must have spit part of that valve out the exhaust and took out the turbo.
Propane will do a number on the exhaust valves if you are running so much to lean out the mixture and that can happen.

You do have a pyrometer on that don't you?

You can get enough HP out of regular diesel with out water/alcohol and propane.
I'm getting @320 hp on my old 5.9B and 750 ft lbs of torque without any add on's, just adjustments- Oh Wait- a boost adjustment valve is the only one(adjusted to 32 psi). I modified my plate(you can buy one modified on FeeBay) and moved the plate .040 forward and then set the timing 2 degrees advanced. Oh ya, Darn it I lied again, I put a 4" Magnaflow muffler on.
She goes up 7% degree at 45-50 mph and gets on ramps a lot faster.
All these mods cost me .2 mpg on a long trip, but I don't have to shift down on rolling hills towing a car at 26000 lbs total weight.


No, no pyrometer.

Well, dangit. I spent hours and hours researching boosting my HP since I am pulling 118lbs/hp but never found anyway to do what you've done. Went with propane injection as I could easily design the circuitry (my skill set) and didn't have to do anything to the engine. If I'd known there was another way, I'd probably gone with that. You make it sound easy. Is there a write up on-line?


Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Fleetwood Bounder, '94
Cummins Diesel, 190HP, 36.5' with 50HP LP boost.
Black Rock Lava Park, Nevada


Jagtech

Sunny Southern Alberta, Canada

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Posted: 04/25/12 07:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Its a difficult decision to make when one is stuck with a rig that needs a major repair, especially when the repair will cost more than the RV is worth. If I were in that situation, I might be tempted to replace the motorhome with a newer one, and part out the old one. Parting out will almost certainly result in more value than selling a non-running unit, which may never sell anyway. There's so much on a motorhome that other folks can use (transmission, rear end, levellers, awnings, furnace, fridge, etc etc).


1998 Triple E F53 with 460 Ford
1995 Jeep Wrangler toad


falconbrother

North Carolina

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Posted: 04/25/12 08:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jim@HiTek wrote:


Then at 5:30 he calls back with a firm quote...$6200!!!

This includes the valve & cylinder work, a new turbo, and one new injector.

My question for the experts is, does this sound reasonable?


Doesn't sound reasonable but, sounds about right. That's a pretty major repair.

Jim@HiTek

Gresham, OR, USA

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Posted: 04/25/12 08:46pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In a following post, I mentioned that the full amount ended up at $5743. The shops rate is $95/hr. Not bad compared to a lot of shops. They should be finished with the 2nd time around tomorrow. They might charge me for a new air filter (I did some computer work for them) so should be pick it up and drive away.

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