looks like i'm getting into a new fridge for the ol' gal and i'm wondering, with lots of folks already converted away from propane units to res units,
1) what energy star specs have you settled for?
(note: cost is my primary concern, efficiency is longer-range concern, size only has to get me thru day camping. right now i carry less than 25lbs food, drinks, water/ice etc. when i go.)
i've been looking at the apartment sizes, top freezers, around 10 cu ft, having energy star numbers like 375 kwh/yr. and compact units, 4.5 cu ft with 275 kwh/yr ratings, and even a 5 cu ft b$d chest freezer rated at 193 kwh/yr!
what i don't know is
2) how does this number roughly translates to how many fridge start/run amps @120vac, and
3) how does it relate to batteries needed and size of fsw inverter to use, (whenever i get to the point of wanting to run it all day.)
also, in actual practice,
4) how much deviation in power equipment to run lowest and highest numbers of kwhs?
i'm hoping to see what some of you have for power, but most importantly, what the energy star numbers are for your powered appliances.
(ps i need to do it in stages, like get back to the woods first, later get the batts and fsw inverter together, last do the solar thing for all-day running off grid)
Tom, although I have a residential refrig in my rig, I don't know if there is a parallel between my rig and yours. I have BIG deep cell batts, a big inverter and a 10KW generator. All I can tell you is they "just work". I do dry camp some and I can usually make it through 3+ days on the batts alone with the refrig running whenever it is calling for cool.
That said, my refrig will never burn down my motorhome.
Tom & Jan
Full timers since April '06 - 2 fur kids (George - mini Aussie, Archie - mini Poodle.)
2006 Beaver Patriot Thunder towing 2012 Subaru (4 down)
Started workamping Sept '07 - "This isn't too bad. Think we'll do it some more."
Pick out the size and style fridge you want then find the highest energy star rated one like that you can find. The real efficiency will be more a function of how many times you open it and what the average ambient temp. is then the energy rating. But I would still find the most efficient one you can that does your job.
If you don't plan to do any camping without hookups the refer power rating doesn't really matter. If you plan to camp without hookups the money you save on the residential refer you will have to spend on enlarging your house battery system. More batteries and bigger generators come to mind.
You could call the manufacturer of the fridge you are considering and ask for tech support. Ask them what the "Locked rotor amp (LRA)" rating is and what the "Running load amp (RLA)" rating is. The first rating is the amps drawn immediately at compressor start and lasts about a second. The second rating is the amp draw while the compressor is running. My Samsung 197, for example, draws 10 amps at start (LRA) and less than 2 amps running (RLA). Does that answer your question?
Our 22 Cubic foot whirlpool has an energy star rating of 550 KWHY ish.
I don't know what the start up current is but I tested it on a 1000 watt sine wave inverter and it starts fine. When running it draws about 155 watts give or take. In normal operations we run it on a 2000 watt sine wave inverter.
2003 Revolution 40C Class A. 2002 Vanguard 22 foot Class C. Diesel smart car Toad or pulling a 2009 Timeout Tent Trailer.
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but rather by the moments that take our breath away.