My camper has almost identical dry and gross weights as yours, and less hitch weight (about 1200#). My original tow vehicle was a 2008 Tundra 5.7 Crewmax with tow package. I use the Husky Centerline, same as yours. It was delivered with 800-1200# bars, but we later upgraded to the 1000-1400# bars. Before buying the camper, we installed LT tires on the Tundra (Load Range E), as well as airbags in the suspension.
Here's my experience...do with it what you will: With a 1200# tongue weight and careful loading, I could make the weights fall within the truck's specifications...barely. But we did have a nearly constant slow bounce as you describe - the hitch weight of the camper combined with the truck's suspension characteristics to produce a "porpoising" effect that no one enjoyed. After several months of adjustment, we found that max weight distribution on the Centerline AND about 50-60psi in the airbags made the "bounce" much more manageable. And that's where things got ugly. We took it out for a test drive, with my wife driving her car alongside me, to make sure things were visually ok. She immediately spotted that the entire truck frame was flexing over larger "rolling" bumps - you know, the ones that are making you seasick right now? In her words, she could watch the cab & bed of the Tundra nearly kiss top and bottom as the frame flexed. She had no reason to exaggerate or lie...it was definitely in our best interests to make the Tundra work.
Reducing the WD or the pressure in the airbags would minimize the visible flex, but would bring back the porpoising. Either way, the camper was just too much for the truck.
The Tundra loyalists will now jump out and scream that they have hauled more, heavier loads with no flex, and that if I DID have flex, it's designed in - supposed to be that way. Whatever. It made me VERY uncomfortable. Due to circumstances outside our control, we were unable to trade for a smaller camper, so we cut our losses and traded the much-loved Tundra on a 3/4 ton truck.
I would highly recommend that you perform the same type of visual inspection if at all possible.
Those who are hauling bigger, better, heavier trailers with your Tundras - I'm glad it's working out for you better than it did for me. But as in so many other things, your past results are no guarantee that everyone else will have the same success.
Stardust - good luck and good travels! If you do decide to continue using the Tundra, please take the advice of a few others here who recommended a true Class 5 hitch - according to the information I coudl find at the time (and it isn't easy to find,) the factory hitch is rated for 1000# tongue weight with weight distribution. I was over that rating, and you are well over. Also, no matter what tow vehicle/trailer combination - get thyself to the scales! The actual numbers might surprise you!
You can spend $2000 on improvements for the Tundra, but never be pleased. You are asking it to do well beyond what it is designed to do. You have a few options.
1) it is cheaper to downgrade the TT than upgrade the TV.
2) Your (paid for) TV has value, something like $20-25k probably. There are a lot of more capable used TVs in that price range. You do not have to buy new, or go into debt for it.
You are both trying to enjoy retirement. You are free to do so, but it will take some compromise and major change to enjoy RVing.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009 2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS 2012 VW Passat TDI
I found out by emailing Husky hitch dealer we had defective compression cylinders on the hitch. Five minutes after the emailed I received a call from representative at Husky. One cylinder was stuck in and the other side was out and loose. Reminded me of a cymbal on a drum set. When you tapped on the one cylinder it moved. That kept bothering me, so I emailed Husky. Sure glad I contacted the dealership of the hitch!
We decided to go with heavy duty shocks, leaf springs and air bags. After getting those installed the RV dealership had a driver come yesterday to pick up the trailer, so a new ball assembly on hitch could be installed. We watched the techs like hawks while the work was done.
Took a test drive with RV tech manager driving. He got the Tundra up to 65 mph without any issues. We pretty much had the trailer loaded for a trip when it went to dealership yesterday. Pillows, guitars and refrigerated food is about all that is left to load.
Thanks for all the advise. In Texas we are suppose drive no more than 60 mph during the day and 55 at night with our size trailer, so a little more air in the air bags and we are ready to roll. In the end I went with my gut which was saying "that hitch ain't right".
Hubby loves the way the Tundra truck handles with all the suspension work. Overkill is better than not doing enough according to hubby. By the way our Tundra was built in Texas, just like us.
I hate to say what everyone else has said, but I can speak from personal experience. I bought the Jayco 330rlts trailer earlier this year. Love the layout and the trailer overall is top notch. I had a Ford F-150 Platinum with the 6.2L V8 (F-250 Gas Engine) and was rated to tow 11,250. Only issue with this trailer is the 1,400 pound tongue weight. I installed air bags to off set the truck sag and that was the worse thing to do. Air Bags only level the truck, I started to tow the trailer and we were floating on the highway. (A very bad feeling!!!!). I looked into getting a more sturdy suspension by adding a leaf, but quickly realized that I should just listen to everyone and upgrade the truck.
I really liked my F-150 Platinum, but as of today, I am a proud owner of a F-250. When you look at all of the facts and truly listen to everyone that knows the truth, the Jayco 330rlts is simply too much trailer for a 1/2 ton truck. I was oversold too, but now understand you there is a HUGE difference between a 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton truck.
Wish you the best of luck on resolving this issue.
After reading all the advice, firstly I'm appalled that given the circumstance of your husband and possibly your age(no disrespect) that the RV dealership would do such a discredit to you folks.
Every week, you will read another thread about how someone was told that they can pull that new shinny new TT easily with their current vehicle. There should be a safety law that prohibits this common practice!! You folks have my sympathy with your current situation and hope you can come to some conclusion that works conveniently for you two.
Ron, Lori and Autumn TV2012 F150 loaded XLT EB SuperCrew 7700GVWR Maxtow 6.5' TT2008 Jayflight G2 23FB/ Equal-i-zer WD
2013 Colorado bound 2012- 4000km, 28 nights for the season 2011- OR & CA done, 6800km in 3 weeks
Well, the OP shares some responsibility in this matter. First, they made a major purchase withou doing their own research. Then, after coming here and asking what to do, they apparently are going to completely disregard the advice given anyway.
Mike & Melynda joined by rugrats Alexandra, Zoe, and Georgia
2010 Yukon XL 3/4 ton V8
2011 North Trail 32QBSS, Reese Dual Cam Our trailer and camping pics
Wow... Stardove, if you can provide some actual weights on your setup that show you are within any of your Tundras weight specs, I'll never, ever post to another 'weight' related post again.. (It has to be ACTUAL weights too.. Not just brochure weights... )
I'll even spot you #400 over GVWR and #200 over rear GAWR... That's because that's what I am running over on my F150 with a #5000 GVWR TT..
On the other hand, if you are satisfied with the 'new' towing experience after getting your hitch setup dialed in, I guess that says a lot too... I mean, I'm VERY satisfied with my trucks towing performance, even tho I'm over my trucks other weight ratings...
I do wish you the best and safe travels.
Mitch
*Anything I post is for entertainment purposes only and what usually works for me.. Your Mileage May Vary..
We have actually gone on another trip, and the truck and RV TT both handled great. Spent 11 nights on Lake Bastrop in Texas which is about a five hour drive. Luckily the lake was not affected by the Labor Day Bastrop Complex Fire last year.
My husband and I both feel the defective hitch was a huge part of the issues on the first trip as far as the trailer sway and ride. The compression cylinders were not working. One was stuck in and one was out and loose.
Having the suspension work done also made a huge difference in how the truck performs while towing. Husband said he can't even tell he is hauling a trailer. He even got the truck up to 75 in a 75 mph zone once, just to see if the truck could do it, but we didn't drive at that speed.
In the end after reading everyone's different opinions my husband made the decision to have the suspension work done. I handled getting the defective hitch parts replaced.
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(It has to be ACTUAL weights too.. Not just brochure weights... 
