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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > 1998 Ford E Super Duty Front Shocks

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W4MBG

Williamsburg, VA

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Posted: 04/23/12 07:39am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

i was able to do mine with the rv just sitting in the driveway. not too bad, actually.


1999 Winnebago Minnie, 29', Triton V10, mostly stock. So far...


Kit Carson

Northwest Louisiana

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Posted: 04/24/12 07:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mikeleblanc413....Did the new bilsteins make that much difference in handling? I am seriously considering having some put on my 2008 winnebago class c and was just curious....


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BradF

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Posted: 04/27/12 07:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I got it done, it was quite the job but what a difference!!! I put on a set of Monroe Gas Magnum RV shocks and the thing handles so much better. No more lean and bounce. Not sure but the shocks on there may have been the 1998 originals, they looked like it. Anyway, thanks for all the posts and suggestions.

j-d

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Posted: 04/27/12 10:38am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Congratulations! Good On You!

I replaced only the front shocks on the old E350, from CarQuest, probably Gas Magnums with a different label. They worked out well, and much expensive than the exotic names.

What was your technique on Front Uppers? Compressing the Shocks or keeping them compressed? And how about the Rears? Just looking at Rear Uppers, I'd guess they have issues of their own.


God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100

Cloudbusting

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Posted: 04/27/12 03:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kit Carson wrote:

Did the new bilsteins make that much difference in handling?

also curious how much difference they'd make on a newer model, 2010 with 5000 mls - worth it?


Jayco 31FS
Honda eu2000i (Trailmanor 2720 leftover)

BradF

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Posted: 04/29/12 07:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Both front and rears were a challenge due to corrosion on the shafts. I had to cut the shaft (below the top nut) on the rears with a Sawzall and break them off. I made the mistake of cutting off the strap that comes on the new shock to keep it compressed during the install (don't do that)! Once you get the old shock out, loosely connect the bottom and aim the top shaft at the frame location (be sure and put on the rubber washer prior of course) and then just cut the strap. Off it goes up into the top location.
Regarding the difference on a newer rig, all I can say is the difference on mine is huge. I think most chassis manufacturers only put on the basic shocks to save cost. Spend a few extra bucks and get good shocks, they will save money and headaches in the long run.

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