bondebond wrote: And all it takes is a jostle or bump going down the road to relieve that downward pressure and that friction is of no value.
That hitch pin will more than suffice.
Yes you definitely need the pin or it will slowly work its way out from what you just said, but because of the friction, there is very little danger of shear from hard acceleration, hard braking, or steep inclines. What you describe is the equivalent of wiggling on one while pulling to get the thing out when it fits tight (especially if there is rust in there).
BTW: You should not leave these things in long term. It can become very difficult to remove. I friend of mine left one in for a little over a year. He is an auto mechanic. It took him a little over an hour at work one day to get the thing out. He said it was the hardest thing on a vehicle to get apart that he had ever encountered.
ExRocketScientist wrote: Then you will understand just how much friction there is in there.
I have a better idea, why don't you operate wihtout your pin?
;-) (No flaming- your words were that the pin didn't do much...which is not saying that the drawbar wouldn't wiggle out, nor that the pin does nothing.)
The lock isn't pickable by most, it has no springs in the mechanism to wear out, and it holds on extremely well.
I highly recommend using a Teflon or Tri-Flow oil in the lock cylinder, as well as putting some type of grease on the inside center of the dogbone, to make removal easier.
bondebond wrote: And all it takes is a jostle or bump going down the road to relieve that downward pressure and that friction is of no value.
That hitch pin will more than suffice.
Yes you definitely need the pin or it will slowly work its way out from what you just said, but because of the friction, there is very little danger of shear from hard acceleration, hard braking, or steep inclines. What you describe is the equivalent of wiggling on one while pulling to get the thing out when it fits tight (especially if there is rust in there).
BTW: You should not leave these things in long term. It can become very difficult to remove. I friend of mine left one in for a little over a year. He is an auto mechanic. It took him a little over an hour at work one day to get the thing out. He said it was the hardest thing on a vehicle to get apart that he had ever encountered.
I 2nd this, after time road grime and rust will build up in the lock it will need to be cut off. Make sure the little rubber cap is on there to help prevent this, but it will "lock up" eventually.
I dont like to leave my hitch in the receiver when not towing, so I dont use a lock. Makes it faster to pull the pin and remove it.
I always pull out my stinger when not towing, toss it in a clear plastic tub, and leave the locking hitch pin in that. That way, it stays with the RV, and a thief can't use the stinger unless they have an angle grinder.
mlts22 wrote: I use a Reese dogbone lock similar to this:
The lock isn't pickable by most, it has no springs in the mechanism to wear out, and it holds on extremely well.
I highly recommend using a Teflon or Tri-Flow oil in the lock cylinder, as well as putting some type of grease on the inside center of the dogbone, to make removal easier.
We use something similar, and have done for about eight years. Works great.
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