Open Roads Forum

Print  |  Close

Topic: Roof A/C not blowing cold, can it be recharged?

Posted By: shaneallenhenderson on 04/22/12 06:37pm

I have 2 ac units and today I discovered the rear unit wont blow cold.
I know nothing about them and dont want to pay an RV place $1,000 to fix it. Anyone know if it can be recharged or something?

It does nothing. when I turn it from fan to ac there is no difference. It never "kicks in" The pitch never changes. It just blows warm air.

* This post was edited 04/23/12 06:22am by shaneallenhenderson *


Posted By: MudChucker on 04/22/12 06:41pm

shaneallenhenderson wrote:

I have 2 ac units and today I discovered the rear unit wont blow cold.
I know nothing about them and dont want to pay an RV place $1,000 to fix it. Anyone know if it can be recharged or something?

Yes they can be recharged, but first you need to fix the leak...

Any refrigeration guy can help you with this.


2005 PILGRIM 274RL 5SS
2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT 6.0



Posted By: shaneallenhenderson on 04/22/12 06:44pm

MudChucker wrote:

shaneallenhenderson wrote:

I have 2 ac units and today I discovered the rear unit wont blow cold.
I know nothing about them and dont want to pay an RV place $1,000 to fix it. Anyone know if it can be recharged or something?

Yes they can be recharged, but first you need to fix the leak...

Any refrigeration guy can help you with this.


awesome


Posted By: Wills250psd on 04/22/12 06:44pm

They dont have ports on them so cant be recharged, but it could be another problem compressor broke/not coming on, mother board broken and a few other things. But 1000 will get you a brand new one.


Posted By: JJBIRISH on 04/22/12 06:46pm

It is permanently sealed and not made to be re-charged…

It has no ports to re-charge it… by the time you pay to have the ports added fix the leak and recharge it you will almost have the cost of a new one and still have a old unit…


Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet



Posted By: Wills250psd on 04/22/12 06:47pm

shaneallenhenderson wrote:

MudChucker wrote:

shaneallenhenderson wrote:

I have 2 ac units and today I discovered the rear unit wont blow cold.
I know nothing about them and dont want to pay an RV place $1,000 to fix it. Anyone know if it can be recharged or something?

Yes they can be recharged, but first you need to fix the leak...

Any refrigeration guy can help you with this.


awesome
Out of all the ones I have had and all my friends, none of them came with ports for charging. I could be wrong about some but have never seen one.


Posted By: MudChucker on 04/22/12 06:58pm

May not have the ports but that doesn't mean they can't be repaired.

Before I posted I called a friend who owns a refrigeration company...I just called him back and he said, someone had to charge it, nothing a brazing torch and some silver rods can't take care of.


Posted By: christopherglenn on 04/22/12 06:59pm

I had one fail under warranty, they replaced it. Being the warranty will do the cheapest, replacement seems best.


2007 Chevrolet 3500 CC/LB Duramax/Dually 4X4 Mine r4tech, Reese Signature Series 18k +slider, duratrac, Titan 62 gallon, diamond eye, Cheetah 64
2011 Keystone Fusion 405 TrailAir & Triglide, Centerpoint, gen-turi, 3 PVX-840T, XANTREX FREEDOM SW3012, G614



Posted By: RV daytrader on 04/22/12 07:05pm

a $6 line-tap-valve will allow refrigerant to be added....and takes about 5 minutes to install it, once the outside cover is removed...now if the reason for no cool air is a bad compressor, then it is not worth fixing.


YODA...our lil Toyota!
1989 Toyota Seabreeze



Posted By: shaneallenhenderson on 04/22/12 07:21pm

RV daytrader wrote:

a $6 line-tap-valve will allow refrigerant to be added....and takes about 5 minutes to install it, once the outside cover is removed...now if the reason for no cool air is a bad compressor, then it is not worth fixing.


How can I tell if it's a bad compressor.


Posted By: vladen on 04/22/12 07:23pm

If you have good friends in refrigeration you can probably get it fixed reasonable. If you dont mgiht just go ahead buy a new one.


Vlad's busy workings

All hope is gone




Posted By: mph_medic on 04/22/12 07:28pm

You can get new A/C or pulled from newer Motorhomes for less that $800 on Ebay every day.. why repair and repair when NEW is always better.. And they can not be recharged unless you want to put more money in then than they are worth...

* This post was edited 04/23/12 12:05am by an administrator/moderator *


Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics...

1993 Damon Frontier Flyer



Posted By: katysdad on 04/22/12 07:29pm

may also be a bad start capacitor for the compressor.


Dodge Ram 3500 DRW Diesel


Posted By: MudChucker on 04/22/12 07:29pm

Trouble is, younstill need to have the leak resolved...knowing how to recharge it is no use if you can't fix the trouble.


Posted By: shaneallenhenderson on 04/22/12 07:45pm

mph_medic wrote:

Dude.. You can get new A/C or pulled from newer Motorhomes for less that $800 on Ebay every day.. why repair and repair when NEW is always better.. And they can not be recharged unless you want to put more money in then than they are worth...


$800 might be hard to come by before summer


Posted By: Wills250psd on 04/22/12 07:58pm

shaneallenhenderson wrote:

mph_medic wrote:

Dude.. You can get new A/C or pulled from newer Motorhomes for less that $800 on Ebay every day.. why repair and repair when NEW is always better.. And they can not be recharged unless you want to put more money in then than they are worth...


$800 might be hard to come by before summer
I agree, but atleast you have 2 It could be worse.


Posted By: wbwood on 04/22/12 09:48pm

How old is the unit that went out? Have to agree, it might be better to bite the bullet and get a new one. Especially if it has some age on it.


Brian
2013 Thor Chateau 31L
ACME Tow Dolly
2014 Ford Focus(Toad)



Posted By: C Schomer on 04/22/12 10:11pm

I do hvacr service and it takes soooo much equipment and time to do things the epa way. It was much faster, easier and cheaper to do repairs before 88 and it was very common to have the small stuff fixed. It's bad enough dragging all the equipment around when there is plenty of room to work around a unit but working on RVs absolutely sucks. I did a lot of it when I worked for a small contractor in 05. You might be able to find a service co. that's geared for the small stuff like window bangers and rv ac but it's almost as expensive to get into one of those little systems as the bigger systems, thanks to the epa. I'd rather work on the 100 ton RTUs where I work. Craig


Posted By: JJBIRISH on 04/22/12 11:23pm

You should be able to find a new one for a little more than $450 or a power saver model for around $650...


Posted By: eddie3260 on 04/22/12 11:44pm

With only the fan running, push the switch over to A/C with the temp controller at it's lowest setting. Afterwards, if you hear a change in pitch, like a low hum, but the compressor isn't coming on and no cold air; I would change out the motor start capacitor before replacing the unit. A capacitor will only run you around $15.

If nothing happens after switching over to A/C, then get the multimeter out, pull the plenum off the ceiling and start troubleshooting the circuits. Could be the control relay that starts the compressor is not getting a signal from the controller, freeze protection thermistor is stopping the compressor from coming on, etc....

* This post was edited 04/23/12 12:00am by eddie3260 *


Posted By: LarryJM on 04/23/12 04:24am

JJBIRISH wrote:

It is permanently sealed and not made to be re-charged…

It has no ports to re-charge it… by the time you pay to have the ports added fix the leak and recharge it you will almost have the cost of a new one and still have a old unit…


Yep and still probably no or little warranty. Unfortunately, IMO this is just one of the potential costs of owning an RV.

Larry


2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL



Posted By: shaneallenhenderson on 04/23/12 04:48am

eddie3260 wrote:

With only the fan running, push the switch over to A/C with the temp controller at it's lowest setting. Afterwards, if you hear a change in pitch, like a low hum, but the compressor isn't coming on and no cold air; I would change out the motor start capacitor before replacing the unit. A capacitor will only run you around $15.

If nothing happens after switching over to A/C, then get the multimeter out, pull the plenum off the ceiling and start troubleshooting the circuits. Could be the control relay that starts the compressor is not getting a signal from the controller, freeze protection thermistor is stopping the compressor from coming on, etc....


It does nothing. when I turn it from fan to ac there is no difference . The pitch never changes. It just blows warm air.

* This post was edited 04/23/12 05:08am by shaneallenhenderson *


Posted By: dodge guy on 04/23/12 05:03am

vladen wrote:

If you have good friends in refrigeration you can probably get it fixed reasonable. If you dont mgiht just go ahead buy a new one.


My neighbor is a commercial HVAC guy. our old trailer stopped blowing cold. he installed a fitting to charge it full of Nitrogen, found a leak and brazed it shut. he then charged it up and it blew cold the entire time I owned it. it can be done.


Wife Kim
Son Brandon 13yrs
Daughter Marissa 12yrs
Dog Bailey

07 Cherokee 32B
02 Excursion 4X4 V-10 4.30 gear 5Star tuner Y-pipe mod Hellwig sway bar
Reese DualCam, Prodigy brake controller

A bad day of camping is
better than a good day at work!



Posted By: shaneallenhenderson on 04/23/12 06:23am

shaneallenhenderson wrote:

I have 2 ac units and today I discovered the rear unit wont blow cold.
I know nothing about them and dont want to pay an RV place $1,000 to fix it. Anyone know if it can be recharged or something?

It does nothing. when I turn it from fan to ac there is no difference. It never "kicks in" The pitch never changes. It just blows warm air.


Maybe its not the freon.


Posted By: WWH on 04/23/12 06:28am

JJBIRISH wrote:

It is permanently sealed and not made to be re-charged…

It has no ports to re-charge it… by the time you pay to have the ports added fix the leak and recharge it you will almost have the cost of a new one and still have a old unit…


X2


Posted By: tempforce on 04/23/12 07:02am

could be a electrical issue.
have it checked. if it's simple, fix it.
if it has a compressor problem, replace it.
buying a used unit to replace a used unit.
you will spend to much in labor, for something that you don't know how long it will last... (unless you can do it yourself).
the biggest problem is the added cost to the repairman due to increasing regulations, which some are good. but require ever more expensive procedures and equipment. which of course is passed on to the consumer.. 'you'..


somewhere in the texas 'lost pines'
currently without rv.
'13' Ford Fusion
'83' Ford Ranger with a 2.2 Diesel.
'56' Ford F100, 4.6 32 valve v8, crown vic front suspension.
soon to be building a early 60's replica trailer.



Posted By: eddie3260 on 04/23/12 07:39am

Since nothing happens when going to AC, my next step would be to see if you are getting control voltage (12 VDC) to the compressor control relay.

You should have a schematic with your paperwork or it may even be behind the cover of your wall controller. You can also just simply use a jumper to jump 12 VDC at the controller over to the wire going to the compressor relay. If this still does nothing, then it's either a bad wire going to the relay or a bad relay. You can verify it's not the wire by going to the other end with the jumper installed and checking for 12 VDC.

My bet is the contact on the wall controller is bad and you're not getting the signal to the control relay. May be something as simple as a loose wire. Doesn't take much resistance to stop current flow with a 12 VDC system.

Good luck


Posted By: Kennedycamper on 04/23/12 12:53pm

My bet would be the start capacitor on the compressor motor. Not a real expensive fix, but like was posted get a voltmeter and check on the unit.


Posted By: JJBIRISH on 04/23/12 12:58pm

You need someone that knows how to troubleshoot it first… the T-stat could be bad and not calling for cold, the relay in the control module could be bad… the module in most is non-serviceable and it cost more that $200 itself… the compressor, a leak, and the list goes on to something as simple as a bad wire or wire connection…

If it turns out being a low charge it has a leak… a service call or a bench charge is going to be the better part of $100 plus parts plus Freon plus at least a hours labor to repair, and still have a old unit… compared to replacing it with a new unit with a new mfg’s warranty… it’s a dollars and cents decision…

Now if you have a friend, neighbor, or relative with the knowledge and tools to diagnose and repair the unit at no charge to you other than the cost of the port and Freon and everything else is ok go for it…

Still by the time you add the cost of the night out and dinner to show your appreciation on top of the cost of the parts and material he used you may be back close to the original cost of repair on the old unit anyway


I guess it comes down to if you have a friend, neighbor or a relative with the knowledge, tools and that is willing to repair it for you for the cost of the port and Freon…


Posted By: h2guy on 04/23/12 02:10pm

shaneallenhenderson wrote:



How can I tell if it's a bad compressor.


You answered that question in your orig post, i.e., fan immediately comes on and noise never changes. Therefore, the compressor is not starting up.

Now whether its the relay or a failed compressor,..................


Rick & Carolyn
01 Ford SC 4x4 DRW
01 CarriLite 5ver



Posted By: eddie3260 on 04/23/12 05:15pm

If you don't know how to troubleshoot, based on what you've said thus far, I think it's worth paying someone $60 to diagnose the problem for you. Someone that knows basic refrigeration and knows how to use a multimeter/read schematics can have this figured out in 30 minutes.


Posted By: shaneallenhenderson on 04/23/12 06:31pm

UPDATE!!


Update for you guys. I fiddled with the temp knob and wiggled it back and forth a coupe times, worked the on / off bottom over 20 times or so and cycled the breaker on and off 20 times and it started to freakin snow in my RV! Ice cold air, I mean ice cold.......yeah!!!!

Not sure which one it was but thanks to you guys I didn't have to take it in and pay a guy to do what I did and then lie about it and charge me $100.

Thanks guys!

* This post was edited 04/23/12 07:26pm by shaneallenhenderson *


Posted By: JaBob on 04/23/12 07:34pm

My failure cost $1400 for a unit replacement. You really need to have a professional tell you what is wrong before you start doing things which could turn out to be more costly.

Bob


Posted By: eddie3260 on 04/23/12 08:17pm

shaneallenhenderson wrote:

UPDATE!!


Update for you guys. I fiddled with the temp knob and wiggled it back and forth a coupe times, worked the on / off bottom over 20 times or so and cycled the breaker on and off 20 times and it started to freakin snow in my RV! Ice cold air, I mean ice cold.......yeah!!!!

Not sure which one it was but thanks to you guys I didn't have to take it in and pay a guy to do what I did and then lie about it and charge me $100.

Thanks guys!


Good deal! Now get some contact cleaner spray and clean the toggle switch connection and hopefully you won't have a repeat.


Posted By: tempforce on 04/23/12 08:20pm

sounds like a corroded contact in a relay or switch. just enjoy and be sure to use the switch every so often to keep it from sticking. (be prepared it may require you to cycle the switch/relay several times to have the unit come on again...
have the switch/relay replaced during the off season...


Posted By: The Falcon on 04/23/12 08:20pm

katysdad wrote:

may also be a bad start capacitor for the compressor.


This is probably the problem. Open from the roof and see if one of the capcitors is blown. It would look partly melted or out of shape. Take it off (a couple of screws and nuts) and get the number. You can order them through an internet RV supply store or an RV shop. About $20.

This happened to me. Easy fix.

Good luck.

Joe


Precision Guesses
Joe&Jan 2003 Hurricane 30Q V10
2004 Jeep Liberty, Blue Ox, Brake Buddy


Posted By: mr300ce on 05/01/12 10:27pm

vladen wrote:

If you have good friends in refrigeration you can probably get it fixed reasonable. If you dont mgiht just go ahead buy a new one.


Fix might not have anything to do with a leak. Find a mobile RV mechanic and have him look at it.

In 2000, on an old truck camper I bought, I called the repair guy on a cordless phone while I was on top of camper with ac cover off. He said look at all the tubing, and I saw that one was broken. He went thru the whole process he would need to do to make repairs and re-charge the system with freon.

It was gonna be about $500. (no warranty)

He recommended I just get a new unit installed at the RV store, which I did for $600. (with warranty)


Fulltime livin' & lovin' it in '94 Bounder 32h.
Chevy 454ci Retire in 3yrs.



Print  |  Close